Everything has a name, and each name has a meaning and a reason for being named. So, what is the origin of the name of that famous watch? In this column, we will explore the secrets behind the names of watches and introduce them along with their anecdotes.
This time, we will explore the origin of the name of the new "Premier," which Breitling, which has been advocating a "modern retro" style since Georges Kern became CEO, has broken new ground with.
(Article published on October 9, 2021)
Breitling "Premier"
This is an early model of the Premier, born in 1943. On the left is the Ref. 760, a two-counter watch with a 45-minute counter at 3 o'clock and a small second at 9 o'clock. It has a gold case and a 36mm diameter.
On the right is a Reference 734 equipped with the Venus 178 movement, a three-counter movement with a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock, and a small second at 9 o'clock. It has a stainless steel case and a 38mm diameter.
Georges Kern was appointed as Breitling's new CEO in July 2017. The sudden move of Georges Kern, a former leader at IWC, to rival brand Breitling was a shocking event.
Over four years later, the new Breitling, led by Georges Kern, has been aiming to rewrite the brand's history, so to speak.
Breitling is famous for its high-performance chronographs for professional use, such as the Navitimer and Chronomat. It is widely known as a tough, macho, and enthusiastic brand that promotes "instruments worn on the wrist." It is also a well-known fact that this Breitling image is what gives it its own special charm, something that no other brand can ever imitate.
However, Georges Kern wanted to find a new appeal that was different from the image of Breitling that had existed up until then, so he invited Fred Mandelbaum, a world-renowned vintage watch collector, to be his advisor, and looked to past models for clues.
One of the results of this is the new "Premier Heritage" collection for 2021. Like the "Premier" released in 2018, this new collection is based on the "Premier" model that was released in the 1940s.
The Premier Heritage collection was released in 2021. It features the manual-winding chronograph movement Cal. B09, based on the in-house developed chronograph movement Cal. 01. The dial color is the trendy green, but the two counters and square pushers are reminiscent of the early Premier models from the 1940s. Its diameter is 2mm smaller than the Premier B01 Chronograph 42 released in 2018. Manual-winding (Cal. B09). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (40.0mm diameter, 13.0mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 946,000 yen (tax included).
This was the flagship model of the then-new "Premier" collection, launched in 2018. CEO Georges Kern described the "Premier" collection portfolio as follows: "This is Breitling's first modern collection, focused on everyday elegance. These watches combine exceptional quality and performance, while retaining the brand's undeniable DNA and crafted to perfectly balance function and style." Compared to this model, the 2021 "Premier" is more compact and elegant. Automatic (Cal. 01). 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (42mm diameter, 13.65mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 1,001,000 yen (tax included).
The 1940s was a time of global devastation and exhaustion due to World War II. However, Switzerland, which declared permanent neutrality, avoided direct damage, and the country's watch industry flourished, producing military watches for various countries. Breitling, a master of chronographs and one of the first to focus on the aviation industry, made great strides in areas such as aircraft cockpit clocks and military chronographs. In 1942, it created the first "Chronomat," a historic masterpiece equipped with a circular slide rule.
The Premier was born in 1943, when Breitling was making great strides and World War II was at its height.
