The charity auction "Only Watch" will be held in Geneva, Switzerland on Saturday, November 6, 2021 at 2:00 PM Central European Time (10:00 PM Japan Time on the same day).
The "Tag Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco" being exhibited by TAG Heuer is the first model created by Carol Cazapi, a rare and renowned designer who has since moved to the company. While it carries on TAG Heuer's DNA of pursuing technology, this unique piece also serves as a touchstone for the company's future.
Born in France in 1969. After graduating from the La Chaux-de-Fonds Watchmaking School, he joined Conseil-de-Fonds Engineering Horloger in 1990, where he was involved in the design of the Zenith Class Elite (Class 6) and other watches. He joined Renaud & Papi (now Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi) in 1992 and Ulysse Nardin in 1997, where he designed many movements. After serving as head of design at Cartier from 1999, he moved to TAG Heuer in March 2020.
Article published on June 2021, 11
Who is the most famous designer of today? Opinions will differ from person to person, but few would disagree that she is the best. Carole Kasapi. She is the de facto creator of the Ulysse Nardin Freak movement, the designer of Zenith's in-house Elite movement, and while employed at Cartier, she produced complicated watches not only for the company but also for various other manufacturers, making her one of the greatest designers of our time. Of course, there are other designers who have created movements that are considered masterpieces. However, is there anyone who can compare to her in the breadth of her work?
Now, she has left Cartier and moved to TAG Heuer in March 2020. Her predecessor was the famous Guy Sémon. Indeed, there is no one other than Cazapi who could have succeeded him as a designer. Her first job at TAG Heuer was a model to be auctioned at the Only Watch auction in November 2021: the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco. Carole Cazapi says:
This model is a reinterpretation of the Monaco Ref. 74033N, known among collectors as the "Dark Lord." The case and dial are made of carbon fiber. The movement also features a carbon fiber balance spring. The strap is also made of leather molded to resemble metal, a unique feature. The movement with its carbon fiber baseplate can be seen through the sapphire crystal set into the large opening on the case back, and the outer periphery of the rotor is painted in a gradient from orange to yellow, reminiscent of the "Only Watch" design.
Automatic (Cal. Heuer 02). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 80 hours. Carbon fiber (39mm x 39mm, 15.56mm thick). Water resistant to 100m. Estimated winning bid: 50,000-100,000 Swiss francs.
"This is the first time we've used a carbon hairspring in a chronograph. We've already used it in tourbillons, but this is the first time we've used it in a chronograph. The reasons for using it are that it's non-magnetic and lighter than existing hairsprings. This has reduced the error due to positional deviation. In this particular watch, the accuracy is probably around one to two seconds."
Unlike silicon balance springs, carbon balance springs will not break even if they are pinched by a regulator. This means that even a conventional balance with a regulator can be used to improve magnetic resistance without using a free-sprung balance. It makes sense that TAG Heuer chose carbon, which is more versatile than silicon. In addition, the movement's finishing has been completely renewed. According to Cazapi, "We wanted to add a unique finish to a modern watch." Indeed, the hand-made chamfering is more elaborate than ever before.
"I'm also thinking about future plans, which is why I put it up for sale on Only Watch. I want to continue TAG Heuer's DNA of making technical watches, but also open a new chapter. Adventure will be my motivation. I think I'll be able to show you a new collection in a few years."
Being the first interview, it ended rather quickly. However, at the end, she asked me a question: "What kind of haute horlogerie do you expect to see from TAG Heuer?" To which I replied, "There aren't many manufacturers that combine new materials with luxury watchmaking. That's the kind of watch I want TAG Heuer to make." When I answered this, she smiled broadly. TAG Heuer is sure to undergo major changes in the future. The TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is sure to be a pioneer in this area.
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