Breguet Tourbillon Celebrates 220th Anniversary: ​​Celebrating the History, Tradition, and Innovation of the Tourbillon in an Ancient City

On October 28, 2021, after the state of emergency declared in response to the spread of COVID-10 was lifted, Breguet held a major event at Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto to celebrate the 220th anniversary of its tourbillon. Unveiled at this event, which transcended time and nationality, was a substantial tourbillon that evoked 220 years of history.

Breguet Tourbillon 220th Anniversary in Kyoto

　Abraham-Louis Breguet obtained a patent for the tourbillon in 1801. 2021 marks the 220th anniversary of that date. To commemorate this, Breguet unveiled a new tourbillon at Kiyomizu-dera Temple on Mount Otowa in Kyoto.

　Boasting a history of over 1200 years, Kiyomizu-dera Temple is, needless to say, one of Japan's most famous temples. Located on the slopes of Mt. Otowa, the temple grounds, which cover an area of ​​13 square meters, are lined with national treasures and important cultural properties, such as the main hall and three-story pagoda. For this event, Kiyomizu-dera Temple opened up areas that are normally closed to the public. What's more, our guide was Assistant Deacon Onishi Eigen. We never expected that someone so representative of Kiyomizu-dera Temple would be showing us around the temple grounds. In between explaining Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Onishi skillfully interspersed stories about the concept of "time."

　The first place we visited was the West Gate, which is used to welcome the imperial envoys. This gate is also normally closed to the public, but was opened this time for Breguet. It was a truly thoughtful gesture to start with this sacred place, which is symbolic of Kiyomizu-dera. Nissokan, a form of Buddhist training, involves gazing at the setting sun in the western sky and imagining the Pure Land in the crimson sky, thereby experiencing the presence of Kannon. The event was deliberately held in the evening, likely because the highlight was the desire to show the sunset from the West Gate.

　After watching the sunset, the participants then proceeded to the Sutra Hall, an Important Cultural Property. Rebuilt with a donation from Tokugawa Iemitsu, the building houses a statue of Shaka Nyorai (Buddha Buddha) in the center, flanked by the Bodhisattva Manjusri and the Bodhisattva Samantabhadra. On either side of the Shaka Triad are boxes covered with cloth. When the cloth was reverently removed, two tourbillons were revealed. On the right is the Garde Temps, released in 1812, and on the left is the new Classique Tourbillon Extra-Thin Anniversary 5365. With a circular dragon painted by Nobumoto Okamura on the ceiling and the Shaka Triad enshrined between the clocks, these two watches look every bit as impressive. It's no wonder Breguet chose the Sutra Hall as the venue for the announcement.

Guilloching is a technique used to enhance legibility. The dial of the new Classic Tourbillon Extra-Thin Anniversary 5365 features an extremely fine pattern, ensuring high legibility even under strong light sources, such as the one shown in the photo.

Abraham-Louis Breguet created 35 tourbillons throughout his career, but fewer than 10 are said to still exist. One of these is the "Garde Temps" (ultra-precise watch) No. 2567, pictured, which was sold on March 21, 1812, for 1800 francs at the time.

　This model is a more classically tailored version of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Flat. Some of the guilloched decoration on the dial has been changed to a finer pattern seen on 19th-century pocket watches. The extremely fine guilloching, just 0.25mm, is what gives this tourbillon its classic look. Apparently, instead of regular turning tools, diamond tips used in microguilloching were used. Technological innovation has brought this ancient detail back to life. The back of the movement is hand-engraved with the original diagram of the tourbillon mechanism by Breguet himself. The engraving, a faithful reproduction of the patent drawing from 1801, is a detail that will delight any watch enthusiast.

　As a long-established company with a long history, Breguet has in recent years given the impression of emphasizing innovation rather than tradition. However, this time, they have made a complete turn, deliberately emphasizing tradition. This is why they unveiled this new, classic piece at an ancient temple with 1200 years of history.

　However, the event's appeal didn't end there. After the unveiling of the new works, participants moved to Jojuin Temple, located at the back of Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Rebuilt with a donation from Tofukumon'in Kazuko, Jojuin Temple is home to one of Kyoto's most famous gardens, said to have been designed by either Kobori Enshu or Matsunaga Teitoku. Welcomed by a geisha and maiko, visitors pass through the entrance to find a display of unusual folding fans. The creators are Sylvain Le Guen, a French Living National Treasure (Maître d'Art). Inspired by Japanese origami, his works combine the elegance of Western fans with the precision of Japanese folding fans. It might be easier to understand if you think of him as the designer of the fan used by Marie Antoinette in the film "Marie Antoinette."

　Fascinated by folding fans at the age of eight, Nguyen began making them in 2003. His driving force was Japanese culture. Wanting a folding fan to go with his kimono, he came to Japan in 2020 and has lived in Kyoto ever since. It's interesting that a French Living National Treasure is in Japan, but for someone like him who "want to make folding fans in Japan," Kyoto seems to be the perfect place.

　The fan that Nguyen created for this occasion was a true symbol of the event. The frame he chose was an antique French piece made around 1875. It is not made of wood or bone, but mother-of-pearl. Nguyen covered it with Japanese paper and silk, and painted a tourbillon on top in gold. This piece, which has a Japanese feel but the appearance of a Western fan, synchronizes with the Breguet tourbillon that is displayed next to the Shaka Triad.

　Breguet's new release event was not just extravagant, but also woven with a variety of themes like a tapestry. At the center of this event, which transcended tradition and innovation, and Japanese and Western influences, was the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversary 5365. Its unwavering presence, transcending time and national boundaries, is a clear embodiment of Breguet's 220-year history.