It's actually an in-house movement. Oris "Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115" ~Editorial Discussion~

2021.12.05

In this series, Chronos Japan editor-in-chief Masamasa Hirota, deputy editor-in-chief Yukiya Suzuki, and Hosoyan (aka Yuto Hosoda) share their impressions of popular models. This time, they will be freely reviewing the Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115.

Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115

Masatomo Yoshie: Photographer
Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Text by Yoshiko Agata
Text by Yoshiko Agata
Article published on December 3, 2021


Check out Oris's hidden gem movement!

Hosoda"This model is equipped with the latest in the Caliber 110 series, Oris's first in-house movement. When the Caliber 400 was released, comments like 'Congratulations on your first in-house caliber!' were flooding the world, and I thought the 110 series might not be as well known... so I decided to review it today to help raise awareness of the 110 series."

Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115

Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115
This pilot's watch is equipped with the latest in Oris' first in-house movement, the Cal. 110 series. The front and back of the dial are boldly skeletonized, allowing a full view of the 10-day power reserve movement. The industrial-style exterior represents a new frontier for Oris. Manual winding (Cal. 115). 38 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 240 hours. Ti (44mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 891,000 yen (tax included).

(I.e."It's a genuine in-house development, and the Cal. 115 in particular commemorates the brand's 115th anniversary, so we're really excited about it."

Hosoda"The Cal. 115 is characterized by its modern skeletonization."

Hirota"You can see the entire power reserve mechanism, which I personally find very cute (laughs). I love this."

Hosoda"So, after using it, how did you experience the visibility issues that are common with skeleton watches?"

Hirota"The needle was thick, so it was surprisingly good."

(I.e."The small seconds hand gets lost, but the hour and minute hands are very easy to read as a skeleton, and the luminous material shines well. The reason we can fit such large, thick hands is because the watch has a strong torque."


A masterpiece with a strong exterior

Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 115

The bezel, which resembles a jet engine turbine, is a design that has been used in the ProPilot collection. Although it is fully skeletonized, the thick hands ensure visibility.

Hirota"Oris had been using general-purpose movements from Eta and Sellita until they started to focus on exteriors and went their own way, and this feels like the ultimate example of that. They've put a lot of effort into the exterior of this model! It's made of titanium, but it's very elaborate! Also, unusually for titanium these days, it's not shiny, but has an old-fashioned rough sandblasting finish. That gives it a tool-like feel, which is great."

(I.e."It feels smooth and comfortable on the skin."

Hosoda"The bezel is said to be modeled after the turbine of a jet engine. It's amazing how they can create such fine grooves in titanium."

Oris buckle

The buckle uses a unique flap system inspired by airplane seatbelts, achieving both safety and ease of fastening and unfastening.

(I.e."Yes, it has a tougher feel than any Oris watch I've ever seen (laughs). The seatbelt-style buckle is also distinctive. It may take some getting used to opening the flap when putting it on, but it's a one-touch affair when you take it off. It's also great in terms of safety."

Hirota"Oris watches have a way of hitting the spot, and this model's buckle really shows that."

(I.e."We put a lot of effort into the exterior to match the skeleton movement, which is our pride and joy. The design may be a little conspicuous, but because it's made of titanium, it's light and fits comfortably on the wrist."


What are the advantages and disadvantages of a 10-day roll?

Hosoda"What I personally like is the non-linear power reserve indicator. Ordinary indicators have evenly spaced markings, but with a long power reserve it can be surprisingly difficult to know when to wind it. This one gets wider towards the end, so it's easy to tell when to wind it."

(I.e."Even if it's a 10-day watch, if you want to continue using it with high accuracy, it's best to wind it as soon as possible."

Non-linear power reserve indicator

The non-linear power reserve indicator stands out on the face and accurately displays the remaining power reserve as the time to wind the watch approaches.

HirotaHowever, the 110 series has a weakness...

"Oh!?"

Hirota"The accuracy and feel of setting the hands are excellent, but it also has a 10-day power reserve, so winding the mainspring is a real pain (laughs). I would recommend it to any hand-wound watch enthusiast."

(I.e."That's true (laughs). Because it's a hard mainspring, it's quite hard to wind it all up. Also, the crown has notches that match the bezel, but this also hurts your fingertips..."

Hirota"When you wind the crown, the mainspring is wound up through the crown wheel, but in this movement the crown wheel is extremely small and doesn't provide much leverage. That's another reason why you have to turn it a lot."