What should I pay attention to when buying my first antique watch? ~Spring Wisdom~ Answering your watch-related questions~

2025.09.11

Q: What should I pay attention to when buying an antique watch for the first time?

There are four main things to be aware of: water, sunlight, magnetism, and shock. A properly restored antique watch can last for quite a long time, provided it is not overworked.

Masayuki Hirota

Article published on June 2021, 12
2025/9/11 update


A: The most important thing to note is that it is not waterproof.

Antique watches have a different appeal than modern watches. While they may seem like a high hurdle to most people, they are perfectly usable with just a little care. The first thing to keep in mind is that they are not waterproof at all. While Rolex Oyster cases are water resistant, it is best to avoid getting antique watches from decades ago, even if they are Rolexes, into the water.

It's also best to avoid exposing your watch to strong, direct sunlight. The clear coating covering the dial surface is often deteriorating, so exposing it to sunlight can damage the dial. However, what's even more important to be aware of is magnetism. Unlike modern mechanical watches, so-called antique watches are extremely susceptible to magnetism. Bringing your watch close to a smartphone, car speaker, or a magnet used to fasten a bag can result in costly repairs. If you have these magnets nearby, make it a habit to keep them 5cm away from your watch. Most antique pocket watches and wristwatches from before the 1940s can be damaged by shock. If you notice any violent movements, it's a good idea to remove your watch.

Patek Philippe Antique

Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Antique watches do not have sufficient waterproofing and are vulnerable to sunlight, so how they have been handled and stored has a direct impact on their condition. Conversely, if you pay attention to them on a daily basis and perform proper maintenance, they can be used daily without any problems and will remain in good condition.


Don't skimp when it comes to repairs

However, these are the only four points you need to be careful of. As long as you live a normal life, there is little to worry about overworking your antique watch. An antique watch that has been properly repaired can be used for a fairly long time, as long as you do not overwork it. Also, when repairing, do not skimp on the repair costs. Trying to do it cheaply often ends up costing you more in the end.


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