"Innovation is tradition": Blancpain Bathyscaphe never stands still.

2021.12.05

Blancpain has produced epoch-making models throughout its long history, including the Fifty Fathoms, the ancestor of the modern diver's watch. Its commitment to continuing to develop new products that have an impact on the watch industry remains unchanged to this day, under the philosophy that "innovation is tradition."
The latest Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, released in October 2021, is based on this concept and features ambitious use of materials.

Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe

Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe
This is the brand's first model to use medical-grade titanium, grade 23, for the case. In addition to the NATO strap shown in the photo, the lineup also includes bracelet and sail canvas strap models. Automatic (Cal. 1315). 35 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 120 hours. (Ti diameter 43mm, thickness 13.45mm). Water resistant to 300m. Priced at 1,254,000 yen.
Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Interview and text by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2021 issue of Kronos Japan]


Innovation is tradition: The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe

Blancpain's brand philosophy is "innovation is tradition." Just as the Fifty Fathoms, released in 1953, became the ancestor of modern divers with its anti-malfunction mechanism for the rotating bezel, its soft-iron inner case, and its water resistance of approximately 100 meters, and the Ladybird, the world's smallest round watch, were created in 1956, Blancpain's continued commitment to creating innovative products is the right path for the brand. And the new variation of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, released in October 2021, carries on this philosophy.

This model, made with Grade 23, is the brand's first to feature a rough satin finish along the vertical axis of the dial. The combination with the anthracite color further emphasizes that it is a titanium model. Although the bezel insert appears to be metal, it is actually made of ceramic, and the scale uses Liquidmetal™. The indexes are made of 18K white gold.

 The case of this watch is made of medical-grade titanium, known as Grade 23. While this may be an unfamiliar grade, it's actually a Ti6Al4V alloy containing 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium, and its basic composition is the same as the commonly used Grade 5. So what's different? Because the base titanium itself is of a higher purity, it's more corrosion-resistant than Grade 5 and less likely to cause allergies. Like the 1956 original, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe boasts the full performance of a diver's watch, but with a smaller diameter and reduced thickness. Given that it's likely to be worn for extended periods of daily use and in sweaty sports situations, the use of Grade 23, which is gentler on the skin, makes sense.

 However, Grade 23 has a weakness: it is slightly weaker than Grade 5. This is likely the main reason why many watch manufacturers have not adopted this material, despite its ideal properties for wristwatches. So why is Blancpain able to use Grade 23 for its cases? It's because the company has the know-how in hot forging. Hot forging is a method that increases the strength and toughness of metal by hardening the material after stamping and then forging it again. However, it requires more extensive equipment than cutting, so only a few watch manufacturers have adopted it. By using this hot forging method with Grade 23 titanium, Blancpain has achieved the ideal case: lightweight, hypoallergenic, and less susceptible to aging.

The Caliber 1315 movement features a silicon balance spring, providing both high anti-magnetic performance and a transparent case back. Its high-frequency, free-sprung balance, and chamfered edges, polished screw heads, and beautifully colored hole jewels are typical of luxury timepieces, making it suitable for active wear. The rotor is made of 18K gold with a platinum alloy coating.

 Blancpain's long history and commitment to producing only mechanical watches may give it a somewhat conservative image, but the latest Bathyscaphe, crafted from grade 23 titanium, clearly demonstrates that the brand remains committed to constantly pursuing innovation within the limited scope of mechanical watches.

Part of Blancpain's hot forging process. The die-forged case is heated in the kiln on the right, then forged in the press on the left, increasing the density and strength of the material. The shape is then shaped again by cutting. The photo shows the stainless steel case of the Fifty Fathoms, but Blancpain also uses the same process to form titanium cases. This is an ideal method for Grade 23, which is considered weaker than Grade 5, but as it requires large-scale equipment, only a limited number of manufacturers are able to implement it.



Contact info: Blancpain Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-6254-7233


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