Writer Mitsuru Shibata's Top 5 Watches of 2021

Following on from 2020, most watch fairs and exhibitions in 2021, including Watches & Wonders Geneva 2021, were held online. How do prominent journalists from Japan and around the world evaluate the watches released in 2021? We asked them to choose their top five watches from the 2021 releases.

Patek Philippe "Calatrava 6119G-001"

　It is equipped with the Caliber 30-255 PS, the successor to the Caliber 215, which had been the main manual-winding engine since the late 1970s. Equipped with two barrels that prioritize torque, it has improved rate stability and extended running time from approximately 44 hours to approximately 65 hours. The bridge configuration also evokes the brand's tradition.

Bvlgari "Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar"

　Bulgari's world record rush has finally reached its seventh with the world's thinnest perpetual calendar. This year has been a bumper year for this traditional complicated mechanism, and Bulgari, among others, has used its boastful ultra-thin technology to eliminate the weight that comes with the name "eternal."

Grand Seiko "Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary Model SLGA007"

　The 9R series Spring Drive movement, which was first introduced in 1999 and installed in Grand Seiko watches in 2004, evolved into the Caliber 9RA5 in 2020. The power run time has been extended from the previous approximately three days to approximately five days, and this natural evolution in pursuit of the perfection of proprietary technology conveys a sincere attitude.

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

　Despite its modern practicality, METAS Master Chronometer certification has so far only been adopted by Omega, raising doubts about its future. Will Tudor's acquisition mark a breakthrough and lead to widespread adoption? This could be seen as a test of that.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 403

　With a timeless design that has been around for over 80 years, a moderate 38mm diameter case, and an in-house caliber 403 with high magnetic resistance and a 5-day winding time, this is a watch worth praising, especially as there are fewer and fewer practical mechanical watches for daily use at an affordable price range.

Comments from the judges

　One interesting topic surrounding watches in 2021 was the "Rolex Marathon." Its origins lie in the fact that the surplus money of the Shock Doctrine was poured into rare and valuable watches to further build wealth, which caught the attention of scalpers. Furthermore, the way people toured stores, much like in "Pokémon GO," seems to add a physical, game-like element to the watch-buying experience, making it even more enjoyable.

　Meanwhile, an acquaintance of mine, who had just visited a dealer for repairs, unexpectedly found the new two-tone Oyster Perpetual Explorer, which had just arrived. It was as if he had found something that had been lost. The world of watches is full of unimaginable developments.

　Looking back on the past year, the following new releases have caught our attention. A next-generation hand-wound watch that questions the very existence of mechanical watches, now that smartphones have become firmly established. A perpetual calendar, which has been overshadowed by annual calendars in recent years, suggests a return to traditional complicated mechanisms. Spring Drive, which has shed the stigma of Japanese technology, often mocked as the Galapagos, and has refined its level of perfection. Master Chronometer certification, which has broken the monopoly of the past and is drawing attention to its true value. A timeless, real watch that meets daily needs, combining modern technology with a vintage style.

　Each brand clearly expresses the watchmaking they aim for, conveying originality and a forward-looking intent. I believe that such diversity is the key to survival in an age when it has become difficult to simply enjoy watches.

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Mitsuru Shibata

Born in 1962. He writes and edits for lifestyle and watch magazines, focusing on the world of men's hobbies, including watches, cars, and fashion.