Writer and editor Yutaka Fukuda's top 5 watches released in 2021 that he really wants

2021.12.08

We asked prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches from those released in 2021.
This time, the selection was made by Yutaka Fukuda, who writes about men's lifestyles in general for magazines such as "LEON."
"I thought about picking representative works from each genre, but then everyone would end up making similar choices. So I chose something very personal, in other words, new releases that I really wanted. Four of the films are non-limited edition, so they are still available to buy. That's what makes me happy, but also what makes it difficult," he said, introducing the five films.


Chopard "LUC QF Jubilee"

 This model commemorates the 25th anniversary of the founding of Chopard Manufacture. Its greatest feature is that it's the first stainless steel model certified by the Qualité Fleurier Foundation. It's equipped with the Caliber LUC 96.09-L, a descendant of the classic Caliber LUC 1.96. The small 39mm case size is also a plus. Everything about this watch was perfect, but it was limited to just 25 pieces worldwide and sold out immediately. I sincerely hope it becomes a regular model.

LUC QF Jubilee

Chopard "LUC QF Jubilee"
Automatic movement (Cal. LUC 96.09-L). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 8.92mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 25 pieces worldwide. 1,826,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Chopard Japan Press Tel. 03-5524-8922


Zenith Chronomaster Sports

 Released in January 2021, this watch quickly became a global hit, making it one of the most talked-about models of the year. Its greatest feature is the "El Primero 3600," an evolved version of the "El Primero," which allows the chronograph second hand to complete one revolution around the dial every 10 seconds, enabling accurate 1/10-second measurements. Another appealing design is that it combines features of models from each era, such as the "Rainbow" and "Striking," based on the "A386."

Chronomaster Sport

Zenith Chronomaster Sports
Automatic movement (Cal. El Primero 3600). 35 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 10 bar. 1,166,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861


Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

This model features a 925 silver case, a Black Bay Fifty-Eight. While silver cases were once often found in pocket watches, they are rare today, which makes it a refreshing addition. The unique weight and feel are also appealing. The special blending ratio also makes it less susceptible to aging, allowing you to enjoy beautiful aging. The only thing I think is that the see-through caseback was unnecessary.

Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5400). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Silver 925 case (diameter 39mm, thickness 12mm). Water resistant to 20 bar. 490,600 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Rolex Japan / Tudor Tel. 0120-929-570


Patek Philippe "Calatrava 6119R"

 As the reference indicates, this new model is the successor to the "5119." Its biggest highlight is the newly developed movement, Cal. 30-255 PS. It's hand-wound and has no calendar, so it's impressive that they've put so much effort into creating this movement, which isn't exactly a popular choice. I also like the small 39mm case size. The return of the Clous de Paris bezel, which has been a long time coming, is also good news for fans.

Calatrava 6119R

Patek Philippe "Calatrava 6119R"
Manual winding (Cal. 30-255 PS). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 39mm, thickness 8.1mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 3,399,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109


H. Moser & Cie. "Streamliner Perpetual Calendar"

 This is a new addition to the Streamliner series, which was released in 2020 and has become a globally popular new generation luxury sports watch. It is equipped with the Caliber HMC 812, a center-second version of the classic Caliber HMC 341 perpetual calendar movement released when the H. Moser & Cie. brand was relaunched in 2006. The "Signature Fumé" dial is also an attractive feature.

Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

H. Moser & Cie. "Streamliner Perpetual Calendar"
Manual winding (Cal. HMC 812). 33 jewels. 18,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 168 hours. Stainless steel case (case diameter 42.3 mm, thickness 11 mm). Water resistant to 12 bar. 6,875,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Exes Tel. 03-6274-6120


Comment from Yutaka Fukuda

 Due to the impact of COVID-19, virtually all large-scale presentations were cancelled this year as well. However, several brands took advantage of this and announced their new collections over multiple occasions. In other words, there's no need to show everything at once in line with the annual deadline. They should take their time to develop and show what they're satisfied with at their own pace. That's probably what it came down to. And as a result, there were more impressive new products than usual.

 Incidentally, having multiple presentations is also a big advantage for us viewers. It's a world apart from having to rush around the big venues in Basel or Geneva and see everything in just an hour, compared to being able to take your time and enjoy the show in Japan. So, although it's a shame I can't go to Switzerland, I've decided that there are some good things about it.

 Now, in terms of the new releases by genre, green dials and bronze cases were as prevalent as ever. So-called luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets have also been a trend in recent years. Also notably popular this year were hand-wound watches and watches under 40mm. There were also some excellent perpetual calendars. Furthermore, unique gold materials, interchangeable straps, and eco-friendly designs were also popular.

 So, I thought I would pick representative works from each genre, but that would mean everyone would make similar choices. So I chose something very personal, in other words, new releases that I really wanted. Four of them are not limited edition, so they are still available for purchase. That's what makes me happy, but also what makes me think.



Yutaka Fukuda's profile

Yutaka Fukuda

Writer and editor. Writes about men's lifestyles in general for magazines such as "LEON." Has a serial column about watches and appears in many videos for the online magazine "FORZA STYLE." Please take a look.


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