The world's most influential watch journalist, Gisbert L. Brunner, picks the top 5 watches released in 2021

This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2021.
Gisbert L. Brunner is a German watch journalist who has a major influence on the global watch industry, especially in Europe, and it is no exaggeration to say that he is one of the most trusted voices in the industry.
The five watches he selected after careful consideration are truly symbolic of the present, embodying elements that watch manufacturers and brands should be focusing on in the future.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

　Chopard really seems to have stepped on the gas pedal with this model. The in-house caliber, Chopard 01.12-C, beats at 16 vibrations per second (57,600 vph), twice the normal 8 vph (4 Hz), yet consumes barely more energy than the brand's previous movements. Officially chronometer-certified, the movement contains 210 components and boasts a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. The case, crafted from grade 5 titanium along with the bracelet, measures 41mm in diameter, features a transparent case back, and is water-resistant to 100m. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide, it will not be restocked.

Lang & Heine "Hector"

　There's no denying that manual-winding movements are no longer mainstream. While most people dislike the hassle of winding a crown every day, there is still a small minority who love manual movements. This model is a long-awaited delight for such people. Inside the 40mm stainless steel case lies the in-house developed and manufactured caliber LANG & HEYNE 33.2. It has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours and beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour (6 vibrations per second, 3 Hz). The case back is transparent and the watch is water resistant to 5 bar. The dials are available in three colors: blue, green, and gray, each limited to 33 pieces.

Oris Aquis Date Caliber 400

　It comes with a 10-year warranty, meaning the first maintenance can be done 10 years after purchase, and has a power reserve of approximately 5 days. The case back, made of stainless steel along with the bracelet, is transparent, yet is water resistant to 30 bar, and the movement is the in-house developed automatic Caliber 400. This movement is completely manufactured in-house, with two barrels arranged side-by-side. Of the 150 total parts, more than 30, including components for the stop-seconds and date display, are made from iron-free materials. The escape wheel and pallet fork are made from silicon, which is completely unaffected by magnetism.

Parmigiani Fleurier "Tonda PF Micro-Rotor"

　The aviator and novelist Antoine de Saint-Exupéry once said, "Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." This classic model, with its round case and hand-molded bezel, is an embodiment of this. The micro-rotor, visible from the back, is also made of platinum, and this in-house automatic caliber PF703 is just 3mm thick. At 7.8mm thick, the case does not stand out too much on the wrist. The simplicity of the display, consisting of just two hands and a date, highlights the guilloched dial.

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

　The automatic movement, Cal. MT5602-1U, is naturally manufactured in-house and has been certified by both COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) and METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology), a definite delight for precision enthusiasts. The 41mm ceramic case is water resistant to 10 bar, features a unidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-down crown, and a PVD-coated stainless steel back. The movement, which has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, is tested by COSC before casing, and only those that pass METAS Master Chronometer certification are shipped. Another reliable feature is its excellent magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss, which means accuracy is not affected by minor influences.

Comment from Gisbert L. Bruner

　Choosing the top five watches of 2021 is no easy task. The COVID-19 crisis has had a huge impact on the spectrum of new releases for the second year in a row, just as it did last year.

　In selecting these five watches, we had to first be aware of the sharp decline in sales in the European watch industry due to the strong signal of COVID-5. The next thing we had to consider was the fact that the rapid growth of smartwatches from companies like Apple and Garmin has put a great deal of pressure on établisseur manufacturers that do not have their own integrated manufacturing systems.

　Furthermore, we cannot overlook the fact that the secondhand market, which is approved and guaranteed by manufacturers, is now in a state where new sales must coexist as the market continues to grow. However, when secondhand goods are sold in stores that sell new goods, it is difficult to clearly quantify the number of items that will become a hindrance to desirable sales.

　Therefore, Swiss and German manufacturers have no choice but to offer attractive offers to retailers with customers with purchasing power. Whether or not a watch has passed official testing, high precision is no longer a significant factor in an era when quartz watches are the norm.

　Given the ever-growing success of the Nautilus, Overseas, and Royal Oak, sporty elegance is likely to be at the top of many manufacturers' sights for the future.

　In recent years, the luxury feel of a chronometer no longer necessarily requires a precious metal case. Stainless steel, titanium, and ceramics are known for their durability, and have been elevated to the level where they are used in high-end products in the watch industry.

　In any case, these materials are likely to be ideal for watches that can be worn daily across a variety of lifestyles. One impact that cannot be overlooked on the watch market is the cancellation of all trade fairs that were held in early spring across Europe every year due to the pandemic. Foremost among these is Baselworld, which has also been canceled in 2022.

　There are fears that if things continue as they are, this major exhibition that has led the world in the presentation of new products will eventually disappear without a trace. The organizers, however, are lacking the foresight to come up with a concept that looks to the future. It is likely that in the near future, Watches & Wonders in Geneva will take over from Baselworld as the leading trade fair.

　Now, big names like Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor, Chanel, and Chopard have all withdrawn from Baselworld, along with the brands under the Richemont Group. The reason I keep mentioning this is quite simple: nowadays, you can see watches from all angles on a monitor screen.

　However, the actual experience that ultimately leads to a purchase decision is trying on the item, so trade fairs, individual brand new product launches, and physical retail stores cannot be discounted.

　Anyway, let's move on to the watch itself. I'm talking about product warranties. The two-year warranty period that has long been the standard is no longer entirely relevant. More and more manufacturers are extending their warranties. And that's a good thing. If you're confident in your product, you can extend it beyond the legally mandated minimum.

　A good example of this is Oris, which remains an independent company and is not part of any conglomerate. In light of the stable accuracy and quality of its new in-house Caliber 400 series, Oris has decided to offer a 10-year warranty. This is truly an impressive achievement.

Profile of Gisbert L. Bruner

Born in Germany in 1947.https://www.uhrenkosmos.com/Co-founder and co-owner of the company "Wristwatches." He began collecting watches in 1964. He studied law, psychology, and education at the Ludwig-Maximilian University of Munich, receiving his degrees in 1972 and 1977. He has been an editor of "Alte Uhren" since 1981 and is one of the three authors of "Wristwatches." He has published more than 20 books and contributes to various magazines around the world, including "Kronos Germany" and "Kronos Japan."