This project asks prominent journalists from not only Japan but around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2021.
Elizabeth Doerr, editor-in-chief of Quill & Pad, is active in a wide range of luxury fields, including watches, mainly in Europe. With her extensive connections in the Western watch industry, the watches she has recognized range from authentic grand complications to innovative variations on classic models and regular versions of historical pieces, as well as watches that are affordable yet exclusive and instantly elevate your mood once you hold them in your hands.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185
Unafraid to go all out for the 90th anniversary of its most famous model, the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre has brought to market a masterpiece featuring four sides of imaginative horological technology, some of which have never before been incorporated into a wristwatch. What's more, despite being a Grand Complication, it's possible to pack it into such a compact package thanks to the four sides being a single complication. The Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 case is just over 15mm thick, making it extremely thin for a Grand Complication.

Manual winding (Cal. 185). 97 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. 18KWG case (51.2mm x 31mm, 15.15mm thick). Hours, minutes, tourbillon, instantaneous perpetual calendar, grand date, day of the week, month, leap year, day/night indicator, digital jumping hours, minutes, minute repeater, northern hemisphere moon phase, nodal lunar cycle, periapsis lunar cycle, month, year, southern hemisphere moon phase. Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 10 pieces worldwide. 135 million euros (excluding tax). (Inquiries) Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833
A. Lange & Söhne "Little Lange 1 Moon Phase"
One of the jewels of the watch industry, the Lange 1 symbolizes both hope and rebirth, and its design was met with astonishment when it was introduced in 1994. The 2021 edition of its derivative, the Little Lange 1, features a goldstone dial, an ensemble that transcends the bounds of human imagination and can only be described as "genius." Under optimal visibility conditions and against a cloudless night sky, the watch offers the impression of a generous display of technical prowess.

Manual winding (Cal. L121.2). 44 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. 18KWG case (diameter 36.8mm, thickness 10.0mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. 5,357,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) A. Lange & Söhne Tel. 0120-23-1845
Hermes "H08"
This model represents Hermès' completely original interpretation of sporty watchmaking. Specifically, it offers ample balance, exquisite design, mechanical integrity, and, above all, a reasonable price point, making it a sporty yet casual timepiece for everyday wear. It represents a completely new creation for Hermès in terms of materials and feel, and it proves that the brand has finally become a watchmaker.

Automatic (Cal. H1837). Power reserve: 50 hours. Graphene composite case (39.0mm diameter). Water resistant to 10 bar. Price: 1,009,800 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Hermès Japon Tel. 03-3569-3300
Zenith "Chronomaster Original"
One of the first things to take notice of in 2021 is the addition of the original Zenith reference A386, released in 1969, to the collection in a stainless steel case. Like its iconic predecessor, it has been modernized to suit the tastes of modern watch enthusiasts, a feat that no other manufacturer can match at the moment, and we commend it for that. Furthermore, the radiating sunburst finish on the lugs of this 38mm timepiece is a favorite.

Automatic winding (Cal. El Primero 3600). 35 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38mm, thickness 12.6mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Stainless steel bracelet. 1,034,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Zenith Boutique Ginza Tel. 03-3575-5861
Louis Erard "Smile Day Date"
This expressive watch's exceptionally limited edition, compelling price, and collaboration with iconic designer Alain Silberstein transform it into a must-have watch. Of the three collaboration watches, this one references one of Alain Silberstein's finest design details (one of his finest), featuring a "Smile Day" function that omits the day of the week display and instead uses a cheerful smiley face to symbolize it. Looking at this dial instantly elevates your mood.

Automatic movement (Cal. ETA2836). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Ti case (40mm diameter). Water resistant to 10 bar. Limited to 178 pieces worldwide (78 of which will be sold in a special box set of three with two other models). 495,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Osawa Shokai Tel. 03-3527-2682
Comment from Elizabeth Doerr
2021 marks the second year of the COVID-19 pandemic, and consumer watch-buying behavior has undergone rapid changes, significantly impacting the watch industry. For example, independent manufacturers and brands have experienced unexpected growth in 2021, not only in terms of business and sales, but also in terms of recognition and understanding. This is certainly an unexpected situation, and some independent businesses have stopped accepting orders in order to handle a year's worth of work already booked.
Similarly, some creative mid-sized manufacturers who continued to operate cautiously and didn't manufacture their own components rose to the top, much to the frustration of the established groups that owned many brands. Furthermore, limited editions became a big hit across all brands and price points.
As for style, colors are trending, vintage style is the norm, and after several years of transition, case sizes are finally returning to reasonable levels.
Elizabeth Doerr Profile

An online magazine that deals with watches and related luxury topics.Quill & PadHe is Editor-in-Chief of "Wristwatch Annual." He has been involved in watch publishing since 1991 and served as Senior Editor of "Wristwatch Annual" for 12 years. He served on the Cultural Committee of the FHH (Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie) from 2012 to 18, and was also a jury member of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in 19. His publications include "12 Faces of Time" and "Bridging Art and Mechanics: The Unabridged Story of the Corum Golden Bridge." He is also a contributor to Forbes.com and CNN Style.
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