A review of the Bell & Ross BR 05, a luxury sports watch that can be worn every day and in any situation

2021.12.22

In this series, three editorial staff members from the Japanese edition of Chronos share their impressions of popular models. This time, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, Hosoyan (aka Yuto Hosoda), and newcomer Yasunori Doi will freely comment on the much talked about luxury sports watch, Bell & Ross' BR 05.

Class 05

Masatomo Yoshie: Photographer
Photographs by Masanori Yoshie
Text by Yoshiko Agata
Text by Yoshiko Agata
Article published on December 22, 2021


A review of the new generation luxury sports watch "BR 05"!

HosodaI hear that Bell & Ross's "BR 05," which was released in 2019, is selling very well.

(I.e.It's a model with a "luxury sports" feel, and has been a hot topic since its release, but when I actually wore it, I thought it was a well-balanced watch. The bracelet and head are well balanced.

HosodaThe case thickness hasn't been disclosed, but it's about 11mm, which is thin for this design. So it's really comfortable to wear. Doi-chan, you've made the links quite short, haven't you?

Class 05

Bell & Ross "BR 05"
This Bell & Ross-style luxury sports watch elevates the company's identity, which continues to use aviation instruments as its design motif, to an urbane level. The tapered bracelet is integrated with the case and fits comfortably on the wrist. Automatic (BR-CAL.321). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel (40mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 605,000 yen (tax included).

DoiI have small wrists, so I shortened the links by about four, but the balance was still fine. The case diameter is 40mm, so the size wasn't an issue. If it were 42mm or so, shortening the links would probably make the balance worse.

HosodaThis is a watch that is suitable for people with thin wrists.


Excellent visibility derived from professional devices

(I.e.Looking at the individual details, the dial is very well-made. As expected, Bell & Ross has large, easy-to-read Arabic numerals. Although it's not a particularly elaborate design, the separate date display frame is also a nice touch.

HosodaThe visibility was outstanding. Not only was the black dial providing high contrast, but the indices were thick and tall, and the luminous material was applied really well. It glowed so brightly it almost looked like a diver's watch.

BR 05 luminous paint

The indexes and hour and minute hands are coated with luminous paint, ensuring high visibility regardless of the scene or time.


The bracelet has room for improvement

HosodaHowever, there was one disappointing aspect: the bracelet seemed a little poor for the price.

(I.e.How much is this model?

HosodaIt's 605,000 yen (tax included).

(I.e.Well, considering the price... there were certainly some rough edges. Bell & Ross doesn't manufacture its own movements, and it's a brand that relies on good looks, so in that sense I wish they'd put a little more effort into the bracelet finishing.

HosodaThe links are screwed in place and tapered, so it needs a little more work.


Is it the clear winner as a mid-range luxury sport bike?

DoiThe movement is a modified Sellita Cal. SW300. The rotor design is intricate, resembling a car wheel.

(I.e.The power reserve is about 42 hours, which is short by today's standards. It's a shame, considering the watch's packaging is so good.

HosodaIt's a generic movement, so it can't be helped, but that's a weakness of Bell & Ross. The factory is nearby, so I wish they would get it from Kenissi like Chanel does.

However, people who buy Bell & Ross are probably people who like Bruno Bellamich's product management, so I don't think they care that much about the power reserve.

BR-CAL.321

The automatic movement used in the BR 05 is the BR-CAL.321, which is based on Sellita's Cal.SW300 with a modified rotor design. The SW300 is a replacement for the ETA2892A2, and its basic design dates back to the 1975 ETA2892, so its power reserve may feel a little short in modern times.

(I.e.The BR 05 has a good overall look, so if changing the movement to extend the power reserve means the price goes up, I think it's fine to keep it as is. Personally, I think the current price is quite high.

HosodaThe BR 03, which has the same square case, costs around 40 yen, so even though this one has a bracelet, it's a bit difficult to find a reason for the 20 yen difference...

(I.e.That's right. If you change the movement and improve the exterior finish, it will become even more expensive.

Hmmm... but if you think about it, this price range might be a good target for a luxury sport watch. If you want something of higher quality, something like Chopard's Alpine Eagle would cost over 100 million yen.


Satisfy your fashion needs

HosodaBoth Alpine Eagle and BR 05 are "luxury sports" brands of recent years, but the former has a stronger luxury element, while the latter is more casual and pop. Many "luxury sports" fans also have a penchant for street fashion, so in that sense, the BR 05 has a high affinity and meets their needs.

DoiBell & Ross has had a strong image of aviation up until now, but the keyword for the BR 05 is "urban," which has attracted new fans.

HosodaThe case corners have been rounded off, but the Arabic numerals typical of pilot watches remain. It caters to both existing and new fans. It's great that it doesn't get too caught up in the middle.

BR 05 Dial

The dial appears polished from the front, but it is actually sunray-finished. The applied indexes, which combine Arabic numerals and bars, give the watch a resemblance to aviation instruments.

(I.e.In terms of trends in the watch genre, they rode the wave of "luxury sports" and the wave of informal fashion. There's no doubt that the creation of the BR 05 broadened Bell & Ross's reach.

DoiNew collections are being released one after another, and the momentum is strong.

(I.e.The chronograph and GMT are both great. I'll be traveling a lot from now on, so this is perfect.

HosodaIt's great that they've expanded the range of items. They've steadily increased the number of items and grown them into a core collection.


Specifications that are useful in any situation

Class 05

Despite its sporty face design, the case is modest in thickness, and the exquisite 40mm case diameter and integrated bracelet make it comfortable to wear.

HosodaI've talked about the good and bad points, but overall, I think it's a watch that can be worn in any situation, including its specs of "thickness," "design," and "100m water resistance." It's amazing how versatile it is, and you can wear it all the time. Even if you have several watches, you can use it as your main watch.

(I.e.Yes. You can use it every day, but it still looks stylish.

HosodaIf you wear it every day, you won't notice the short power reserve because it's an automatic watch. I wonder if that's also a factor in choosing the movement.

(I.e.The design can be used both on and off, so as long as you don't take it off on the weekends, the winding problem will be solved. I also recommend it as a fast-lag sport.

DoiIt's not too bold, so it would look good with a suit.

(I.e.It has all the iconic Bell & Ross elements, but it's stylish without being overly assertive. In that sense, it's a watch that strikes a good balance.


Contact info: Bell & Ross Ginza Boutique Tel. 03-6264-3989


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http://www.webchronos.net/news/35604/
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http://www.webchronos.net/features/51104/
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http://www.webchronos.net/features/67695/