Serge Maillard, publisher and editor-in-chief of Europa Star, Switzerland's leading watch media, selects the top 5 most creative watches released in 2021

This project asks prominent journalists representing the watch industry in Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2021.
As its name suggests, Europa Star is Switzerland's oldest and most established watch media, which has been thoroughly covering watch companies in Europe as well as Japan and Asia before the COVID-5 pandemic, and is now known worldwide. The top five watches released in 2021, selected by publisher and editor-in-chief Serge Maillard, are timepieces that have a clear vision for their own identity and have shaped that vision with abundant creativity.

Parmigiani Fleurier "Tonda PF Annual Calendar"

　Widely known for his work in the watch business at Bulgari, Guido Terreni now takes the helm at Parmigiani Fleurier. His first collection as CEO, the Tonda PF, features clean lines that confirm Terreni is heading in the right direction. With his keen aesthetic eye, Terreni is guiding the Swiss brand to embrace a more contemporary identity. Understated and sporty-chic, new timepieces like the Tonda PF Annual Calendar are the perfect blend of classicism, high-end engineering, and pure modern flair.

Bvlgari "Octo Roma Worldtimer"

　The Octo Finissimo is not the only Bulgari creation. At the Geneva Watch Days, held from late August to early September 2021, the brand unveiled one of its latest models, the Octo Roma Worldtimer. Not only does it feature the hours, minutes, and seconds in the center of the dial, but it also features a double rotating disc on the outer edge, displaying the names of 24 cities and a 24-hour scale on each ring. Bulgari now commands a significant presence in the watch industry, winning the highest award, the Golden Hand Award, at the 2021 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix.

Omega "Speedmaster Chronoscope"

　Omega is uniquely positioned to constantly revisit its past creations and reinterpret its timepieces. This model is a new version of the famous Speedmaster. Inspired by chronographs from the 1940s, the design skillfully mixes a chronograph function with a scale that can calculate three approximate values ​​from the measured time. The tachymeter, which measures speed, the telemeter, which measures distance, and the pulsometer, which measures pulse, are inscribed on the bezel and dial, and their concentric circular design gives this model a distinctive vintage feel.

Zenith Chronomaster Sports

　Zenith has made a remarkable comeback in recent years. The Defy collection takes a radically innovative approach that's in keeping with Zenith's history of technological innovation. Meanwhile, the Chronomaster Sport offers a compelling sport-chic aesthetic. Its reinterpretation of the El Primero's tricolor dial, ceramic bezel, and integrated bracelet make it one of 2021's most iconic timepieces.

Arnold & Son "Luna Magna"

　Arnold & Son is undoubtedly one of the most elegant and poetic aesthetics on the modern watch market. The brand specializes in precise and poetic depictions of the moon. As its name suggests, the LunaMagma features the largest moon ever seen on a wristwatch, displayed as a three-dimensional moon phase display, crafted from marble and aventurine. Yet, it feels weightless at all. It's a luxurious model that elegantly combines engineering and poetry.

Comment from Serge Maillard

　2021 has confirmed the global passion for timepieces from a select few brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, FP Journe, and Philippe Dufour. Whether vintage or more recent models, these have become the "holy grails of watchmaking," sparking a global treasure hunt. Perhaps the greatest example of this is the intense interest in these models at auction.

　In addition to this huge success, which underscores the global interest in watchmaking as an artisanal craft, what's interesting is that several other watch brands have come up with imaginative ways to capture a slice of this newly-rising allure in timekeeping technology: indeed, brands such as Omega and Bvlgari have seen steady growth, while brands such as Zenith, Parmigiani Fleurier, Greubel Forsey, Maurice Lacroix and Doxa have made a "comeback."

　This is why I include timepieces from these brands in my annual watch selections. All of these brands are characterized by strong management and a clear vision for their identity. Having a clear identity is key to attracting customer attention today. As the primary and secondary markets merge, watch enthusiasts are looking for the long-term value of brands. I hope that some of the other brands that have now lost their "impact" can find the recipe to regain the interest of the global watch industry.

　The resilience of the watch industry is certainly impressive. The most vibrant segments are undoubtedly those leaning towards the high-end. However, this shouldn't mean we should abandon our creativity and energy in the entry-level and mid-range segments, as newcomers to the "watch game" often still face financial constraints. In fact, in a (hopefully) post-COVID world, we'll undoubtedly see a whole new generation of watch consumers at home.

　Brands therefore need to connect with this new generation. A good example is Tissot, which has targeted an average consumer age of 20 to 25 when relaunching its 1970s collection, PRX. The collection ticks all the boxes for this generation: neo-vintage (yet current), accessible and affordable.

　Many global challenges are expected to remain in 2022, from fears of a resurgence of COVID-19 infections to the possibility of a financial crisis following the "banknote printing" as an economic stimulus. Nevertheless, it is well-known that watches as sentimental objects maintain their cultural and social importance. In this sense, the recent recognition of mechanical watchmaking know-how as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO is the best possible sign for the watch industry, which must now embrace its mission of preserving and nurturing this heritage for future generations.

Profile of Serge Maillard

Serge Maillard is the publisher and editor-in-chief of Europa Star, a historic watch magazine founded in Switzerland in 1927. The magazine is an independent, family-run media outlet, and Serge Maillard is the great-grandson of its founder.