SJX, one of the most influential watch journalists today, has chosen his top 5 watches of 2021 from his unique perspective.

This project asks prominent journalists active in the watch industry in Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2021.
Based in Singapore, SJX (Su Jiaxiang) is a watch journalist known not only in Asia but also in Europe and the United States, and is influential in the online world for his unique watch reviews.Here, we will introduce his top 5 watches, selected with his first-class aesthetic eye, from the wide range of high-quality watches released in 2021 across all price ranges.

Tudor Pelagos FXD

　Developed in collaboration with the French Navy's elite combat diver unit, the FXD is, unsurprisingly, a no-frills, highly functional watch. Despite its military origins, it combines all the essentials that Tudor excels at: simplicity, high-spec movement, and robustness. It is perhaps the only mechanical military timepiece in existence.

Patek Philippe "Calatrava 6119R"

　While it may not seem like a remarkable watch in itself, the Calatrava Ref. 6119 was the first watch to feature the large, thin Caliber 30-255 PS movement, a simple yet sophisticated design. The finishing of this movement, which still retained its double barrel and achieved a slim profile, was of a higher order than ever before. Patek Philippe had previously been at a disadvantage in the entry-level manual-winding watch market, but with the Ref. 6119, they were once again able to take the lead.

Kudoke "Kudoke 2 Zodiac"

While I may be biased about the Kudoke 2 Zodiac, as this was a project I developed with Kudoke, I truly believe it to be one of the best examples of independent watchmaking at this price point. The symbolic hand-engraved Zodiac on both the dial and movement is quite different from a typical Kudoke watch, and together with the day/night indicator at 12 o'clock and the "infinity" hand, it presents a distinctive and unique look while still retaining the essence of the brand.

FP Journe "FFC Blue"

　Undoubtedly one of the most original watches of the year, the FFC Blue tells the time in a very simple way. It requires just five fingers, yet the complex mechanism required to realize this finger-tell automaton within the slim case truly explains why brand founder François-Paul Journe is one of the great watchmakers of our time. Offered at the 2021 Only Watch auction, this unique piece is out of reach, but we await the good news that it will eventually be released as a regular model.

Citizen "The Citizen Mechanical Model Caliber 0200"

　Citizen has historically not been as successful as its Japanese rivals when it comes to high-end mechanical watchmaking, but with the Caliber 0200, they've caught up with them at the speed of light. This watch boasts an impressive level of finishing inside and out, and the case and bracelet are excellent, making it especially noteworthy considering its price. If this model is any indication of what Citizen can do with mechanical movements, then they're certainly a brand to watch.

Comment from SJX

　Perhaps because watchmakers and brands did not anticipate the significant increase in demand for luxury watches, there were no particularly outstanding new releases in 2021. These watches seem more like a response to tough times than the unprecedented boom we are currently experiencing.

　It takes years to develop a new watch—typically two to four years for most watches—so 2023 will likely see even more new releases reflecting the industry's strength.

　While the number of noteworthy watches released in 2021 was small, there were excellent watches at nearly every price point. However, there are some excellent watches that aren't included in my top five selections. At the very bottom of the price range is the Tissot PRX Automatic, which offers good looks, consistent quality at a low price. And at the other end of the spectrum is the Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat, a watch that boasts an ingenious new time display mechanism that operates on an entirely different plane from the movement.

SJX Profile

Su Jiaxiang, also known as SJX,watchesbysjx.comFounder of . Born in 1985. Became interested in watches at the age of 12 and has contributed to websites and other publications. Currently, he is one of the most influential watch journalists.