Tudor offers high-quality watches at reasonable prices. Their signature collection is the Black Bay, which features a modern and sophisticated design inspired by their archives. However, there are many variations within the Black Bay. They also offer other collections, such as the Pelagos and Royal, so it can be hard to decide which one to choose. In this article, we'll explain the features of each Tudor collection and introduce recommended models from each.
What collections does Tudor have?
What kind of unique features does a Tudor watch have? We will introduce the classic collections and their respective characteristics.
Tudor's iconic Black Bay
The Black Bay is one of Tudor's iconic collections. The photo shows its distinctive snowflake hands and striking unidirectional rotating bezel with a matte burgundy anodized disc. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5602-U). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 13.6mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 674,300 yen (tax included).
The Black Bay, launched in 2012, is a revival of Tudor's classic Oyster Prince Submariner. Its bold looks and distinctive Tudor details have made it popular, and it has become the brand's flagship collection.
One of the most striking features of the Black Bay is its unique snowflake-shaped hands, which were first introduced in the 1970s and have been used in all diver's watches since.
The unique color of the bezel and the crown, known as the Big Crown, are also eye-catching features. Only the early models feature the rose logo, which was used at the time of the company's founding, on the dial.
The small-diameter "Black Bay 54"
At first glance, it looks like a Black Bay, but the Black Bay 54 is a classic model with a 37mm case diameter. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5400). 27 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (37mm diameter, 11.2mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 595,100 yen (tax included).
There are various other collections of Black Bay watches. The Black Bay 54, which was released in 2023, has a classic 37mm diameter. The Oyster Prince Submariner, Ref. 7922, Tudor's first diver's watch, was released in 1954.
It is modeled after the 1950s and is filled with elements that give the impression of a good old Tudor diver's watch, such as a case without a crown guard, lollipop hands, and a simple unidirectional rotating bezel with no markings other than numbers. The lack of a date window also reflects the vintage style.
The movement used is the Cal. MT5400. It is COSC certified and boasts excellent accuracy of within 6 seconds per day (-2, +4 seconds) when cased, as well as a practical power reserve of approximately 70 hours, making it a great watch for both diving and everyday use.
The Black Bay 58 was inspired by the Big Crown
Bronze watches have become increasingly common in recent years. This model matches the classic look of the Black Bay 58 perfectly. Automatic (Cal. MT5400). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Bronze case (39mm diameter, 11.9mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Boutique-exclusive model. Price: 738,100 yen (tax included).
The Black Bay 54 is inspired by the Ref. 7924, which was released in 1958. The Ref. 7924 was Tudor's first diver's watch with a water resistance of 200m, and is also known as the Big Crown due to its original crown shape.
There are many unique variations of the Black Bay, including basic stainless steel, bronze, 925 silver, and even 18K yellow gold, which is rare for Tudor.
The retro Black Bay Pro
The Black Bay Pro is full of retro and tool-like charm. It's available with a fabric strap and a hybrid strap with leather and rubber lining. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5652). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter, 14.6mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 642,400 yen (tax included).
The Black Bay Pro features a fixed 24-hour bezel and GMT function. This collection, released in 2022, features a retro design with a small 39mm diameter, a metal bezel with a directly printed scale, and luminous paint that gives it a burnt appearance over time.
On the other hand, its performance is excellent, as you'd expect from a modern Tudor. COSC certified, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and water resistance to 200m, it's more than practical.
Black Bay Chrono with chronograph
While the Black Bay often has a strong tool-like design, the Black Bay Chrono adds a touch of glamour with its yellow gold and champagne-colored dial. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5813). 41 jewels. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter, 14.4mm thick). Water resistant to 200m. Priced at 999,900 yen (tax included).
The Black Bay Chrono collection was launched in 2017. Equipped with a chronograph, it features a bezel with a tachymeter scale and two subdials. Although the collection bears the name Black Bay, its design is reminiscent of Tudor's past chronograph models, which began in 1970, rather than the Oyster Prince Submariner.
The large case, measuring 41mm in diameter and 14.4mm thick, has a strong presence. The Caliber MT5813 movement is an improved version of Breitling's Caliber 01.
Pelagos: Excellent waterproof performance
The Pelagos collection is a collection of authentic diver's watches that are water resistant to 500m and equipped with a helium escape valve at the 9 o'clock position on the case. The Pelagos 39, which is water resistant to 200m, is also available. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5612). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Ti case (42mm diameter, 14.3mm thick). Water resistant to 500m. Price: 761,200 yen (tax included).
The Pelagos is Tudor's full-scale diver's line. Like the Black Bay, it inherits the lineage of the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, and its greatest feature is its high practicality.
The Pelagos is water resistant to 500m thanks to a helium escape mechanism, and the case and bracelet are made of lightweight, rust-resistant titanium.
The ability to automatically adjust the bracelet underwater is another factor that enhances the practicality of the Pelagos. It is equipped with an in-house movement, which enhances its accuracy.
A "Ranger" you'll want to take with you on your adventures
The Ranger features four Arabic numerals, a line of bar indexes, and powerful arrow hands. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5402). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 507,100 yen (tax included).
The Ranger is a tool watch that does not have a date window and focuses solely on displaying the time. Tudor calls it the "21st century exploration watch." This design, inspired by the Ref. 7995 that appeared in the 1960s, was also used in the Heritage Ranger, which was launched in 2014, but this collection was not released in Japan. However, it was re-released as the Ranger in 22. Since then, it has gained popularity as one of Tudor's signature tool watches, alongside the Black Bay and Pelagos.
With a compact case measuring 39mm in diameter and 12mm thick, and basic functionality, it's a tool watch that can be worn in business situations, and will make a subtle statement when worn under a jacket cuff.
"Tudor Royal" with its beautiful classical design
The Tudor Royal is a standard three-hand model with a date display, featuring the iconic notched bezel and five-row integrated bracelet. Automatic (Cal. T601). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel (38mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. 381,700 yen (tax included).
The Tudor Royal, released in 2020, is a model that combines elegance and sportiness. It revives a model name used in the 1950s and emphasizes classic design.
The main feature of the Tudor Royal is its notched bezel with alternating polished and alternating cuts, a beautiful yet practical element that embodies the brand's philosophy.
Another distinctive feature is the five-row integrated bracelet that is integrated with the case. Also, the full day display at 12 o'clock and the date display at 3 o'clock, which can be seen on the 41mm model, combine practicality with a sense of luxury.
Recommended Black Bay models
The Tudor Black Bay is a collection that reinterprets the classic diver's watch. Here are some recommended models from the wide variety of options.
Tudor Black Bay
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5602-U). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 13.6mm). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 742,500 yen (tax included).
In 2023, the Master Chronometer-certified Black Bay, boasting ultra-magnetic resistance, was released. The following year, 24, a color variation, the Ref. M7941A1A0NU-0002, with a black dial and black bezel, was added to the collection.
It retains the Black Bay style, including its distinctive snowflake hands, but is equipped with the more powerful Cal. MT5602-U.
The clasp is a "T-fit" quick-adjust clasp, which allows for fine adjustment of the size without the need for tools.
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5450-U). 34 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 39mm, thickness 12.8mm). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 742,500 yen (tax included).
One of the new 2024 watches that's garnering a lot of attention is the Black Bay 58 GMT. Tudor has previously offered models with a GMT function that displays not only the current location but also the time back home. However, this model also features a fast-forward date function in addition to the GMT function. The basic GMT function is to move the hour hand independently, and the date is usually adjusted by rotating the hour hand. However, Tudor has made the fast-forward date function available separately, allowing both the date and the hour hand to be quickly adjusted using the crown.
With a compact case measuring 39mm in diameter and 12.8mm thick, and a glossy black and red bezel, the design is also very attractive, and it is likely to continue to drive Tudor's popularity.
The new Black Bay model, the Black Bay Ceramic (Ref. M79210CNU-0001), released in 2021, is crafted from matte black ceramic, creating a chic and powerful impression. The contrast between the black dial and indexes is captivating.
Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5813). 41 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 14.4mm). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 848,100 yen (tax included).
The Black Bay Chrono was released in 2021 to mark the 50th anniversary of the birth of the Tudor chronograph. It is a watch that encapsulates the brand's history of chronographs.
The movement is the in-house movement Cal. MT5813 with a bidirectional rotor. The snowflake hands and rivet bracelet are faithful to the aesthetics of the collection.
The silver-colored tachymeter with markers gives this sophisticated chronograph a sporty feel, and the contrast between the dial and sub-counters is also eye-catching.
Recommended Tudor Royal Models
The Tudor Royal, with its sporty yet classic design, is a particularly popular collection among entry-level watches. Let's take a look at the lineup, paying attention to the differences in color and material.
Tudor "Royal" Blue Dial 41mm
Automatic movement (Cal. T603). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.6mm). Water resistant to 100m. 37,100 yen (tax included).
Blue dials on men's watches have been gaining popularity in recent years, along with black dials, because they are a color that can be easily coordinated with both suits and casual styles.
The Tudor Royal (Ref. M28600-0005) is a 41mm model with a blue dial. The sunray finish that shines radiatingly on the dial gives it an even more elegant impression.
The beautifully designed notched bezel is a common detail throughout the collection, and the integrated five-row link bracelet with processed edges ensures a comfortable fit.
Tudor "Royal" Yellow Gold Bezel 41mm
Automatic movement (Cal. T603). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.6mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 492,800 yen (tax included).
The Tudor Royal (Ref. M28603-0003) is an attractive model with a notched bezel made of yellow gold. The five-row link bracelet is made of stainless steel and yellow gold.
Yellow gold, often used in men's watches, is a type of gold that emphasizes elegance. It is an alloy made by mixing pure gold with silver and copper, with a higher proportion of copper than silver.
The movement is the in-house automatic Cal. T603. The yellow gold crown is engraved with the Maison's logo. This watch has not yet been released in Japan, but we expect it to be available in the general market in the future.
Tudor "Royal" Diamond-Set Dial 38mm
Automatic movement (Cal. T601). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 38mm, thickness 10.4mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 492,800 yen (tax included).
The model with a black dial and diamonds is the Tudor Royal (Ref. M28500-0004) with a case diameter of 38mm.
Diamonds have long been considered jewelry for women, but in recent years, men are increasingly wearing them. Diamonds used as accents on watches can create a subtle and stylish look without being gaudy.
The movement is the Cal. T601, which has a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. If the 38mm case feels too small, you might want to check out the 41mm diamond-set model. This model has also not yet been released in Japan, but we look forward to its future release.
Recommended Pelagos models
Pelagos is another popular sports line, along with the Black Bay. If you're looking for a highly practical Tudor watch, check out the Pelagos lineup.
Tudor Pelagos FXD
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5602). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Ti case (diameter 42mm, thickness 12.8mm). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 634,700 yen (tax included).
The Pelagos FXD (Ref. M25707B/21-0001) is a model released in 2021. It was developed in collaboration with the French Navy, for which Tudor was once a supplier.
Its distinctive feature is that it precisely embodies the numerous technical specifications required by the French Navy, including a strap bar fixed to the case and a bidirectional rotating bezel with 120 notches, which are new features designed to enhance robustness and reliability.
The in-house movement, Cal. MT5602, boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, is COSC certified, and also features a non-magnetic silicon balance spring.
Tudor Pelagos LHD
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5612-LHD). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Ti case (diameter 42mm, thickness 14.3mm). Water resistant to 500m. Price: 761,200 yen (tax included).
The Pelagos LHD (Ref. M25610TNL-0001) was designed for left-handed divers. The position of the crown and the LHD (Left-Hand-Drive) in the model name indicate that this watch is for left-handed divers.
The matte black dial features a red model name at the 6 o'clock position as an accent, and the indexes and bezel markings are painted with beige luminous paint.
It also boasts excellent practicality, such as an elastic rubber strap and 500m water resistance. It is equipped with the high-performance in-house movement, Cal. 5612-LHD, for left-handed use.
Each Tudor model has its own unique character
Tudor offers a wide range of collections. If you're looking for a watch with a unique character, the Black Bay, Tudor Royal, and Pelagos are good choices.
By learning about the characteristics and history of each model, you can understand the unique characteristics that are noteworthy. Check out the appeal of the classic models and choose one that has the characteristics you desire. The unique personalities of each model speak to Tudor's strengths.
