My impressions after wearing the Grand Seiko SBGJ203, the legitimate successor to the legendary 44GS

I've been wearing the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGJ203 and will share my impressions. This model is a GMT watch equipped with a high-beat movement that beats 10 bph (36,000 vph), and its case shape faithfully inherits the Seiko style established with the 44GS. I'd like to provide a brief review of this model, which brings together Japanese tradition, pride, and technological prowess.

Reviewing Grand Seiko, Japan's world-renowned luxury watch

　Before we get into our impressions, let's first take a look at the features of this model. In addition to the usual hour, minute, and second displays, it also features a second time zone display with a 24-hour sub-hour hand and a date display. This GMT watch has a simple design, making it perfect for businessmen who are active globally. The case and bracelet are made of stainless steel. The distortion-free mirror finish is achieved through Zaratsu polishing. The bracelet links are adjusted using screws, a method often seen in high-end watches. The buckle, embossed with the "GS" logo, is a three-fold type with a push button, allowing for quick and secure fastening and detachment.

　This model's screw-down crown makes it water resistant to 10 bar. Many watches with a dignified business design don't offer high levels of water resistance, but this Japanese-made model is impressive. It's great to know that it can be used safely even in Japan's hot and humid climate. The case shape follows the characteristics of the 44GS, a model released in 1967 and famous for establishing the Seiko style. The case is 40mm in diameter and 14mm thick, a size that suits many people, even though it's a little thick. The black dial features a "Mount Iwate pattern" that represents the mountainside of Mount Iwate as seen from the Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Workshop.

A highly durable 10-beat movement that overturns conventional wisdom about high-beat watches

　The movement used is the Cal. 9S86. It has a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and a high beat of 10 vibrations (36,000 vibrations per hour). Generally, the higher the beat, the faster the parts related to the escapement and gear train move, making them more susceptible to wear. However, this only applies if the frequency is simply increased. In developing the 10-beat movement, Grand Seiko placed an intermediate escape wheel between the fourth wheel and the escape wheel to increase the size of the teeth on the fourth wheel, improving durability. They also implemented a number of measures, including improving the mainspring and balance spring, and using MEMS technology to reduce the weight of the escape wheel and anchor.

　This allowed them to successfully achieve a high beat while taking into consideration the strain on the movement. Grand Seiko movements are made up of thick, sturdy parts, designed to withstand years of use and repeated maintenance. Even the gears are manufactured with high precision and are resistant to wear. In fact, there are many brands that replace the entire movement of a mechanical watch when maintenance is required. This is because training and maintaining the technicians required for repairs is a major burden for the brand. Grand Seiko also places great emphasis on after-sales service, and is not neglecting to train the next generation of craftsmen, so you can continue to use your watch with peace of mind, looking to the future.

An outstanding design that highlights the practicality of the device

　First, let's take a look at the actual watch. My first impression when I held it in my hand was that it was "surprisingly compact." Although the 40mm diameter case is by no means large, I was worried that it might feel stretched out given its simple design, but seeing the actual watch didn't give me that impression at all. In fact, perhaps because the 24-hour chapter ring, indexes, and brand logo are well-balanced, it even feels just the right amount of compact. This is probably because the middle case itself protrudes significantly to the side, keeping the diameter of the dial small.

　Moving my eyes to the dial, I was told that this watch features a radially spreading Mt. Iwate pattern, but it was difficult to see clearly in the indoor lighting. If you squint, you can certainly see countless lines, but it's rare to go to such lengths to notice them. The hands are thick and clear, typical of Grand Seiko.

　The hour and minute hands are faceted, making them clearly visible even in low light. The indices are also faceted, just like the hands. In addition, fine serrations are engraved on the top surface, which reflect even the slightest amount of light, giving the indices a lustrous shine. Despite not being coated with Super-LumiNova, the hands and indices are not lost in the black dial, which is impressive and exudes the pride of a practical watch. There is also another point that I personally like. Some GMT watches with central sub-hour hands have a large gap between the hands, but this model has a close gap between the hands that is not a hindrance as a practical watch. If this gap were larger than necessary, it would immediately ruin the sense of tension in the sharply finished hands.

　The second hand is also beautifully finished, with no visible burrs. The smooth movement of the 10 beats matches the precision of Grand Seiko. While a relaxed low beat is sometimes said to be for connoisseurs, I personally think that a high beat suits the taut atmosphere of this watch. The tip of the second hand is curved to bring it closer to the dial and improve readability, but it still feels far away from the dial. While not inconvenient, it does slightly reduce readability when viewed from an angle.

　The case back is transparent, allowing you to admire the movement, with most of the gear train hidden under a sturdy bridge, the finish of which is sure to please the eye.