"A private watch by independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka" – Exploring the appeal of "Chrono Tokyo"

Chrono Tokyo is a sub-brand of Tokyo Watch Precision, led by independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. Created by Asaoka himself based on the concept of creating watches that could be worn on a daily basis, Chrono Tokyo has gained immense support from watch enthusiasts because it allows them to enjoy Asaoka-designed watches at an affordable price. We will delve into the reasons why Chrono Tokyo has gained such acclaim both domestically and internationally.

　This time, we'll be introducing the appeal of the "Chrono Tokyo," a masterpiece daily watch from Tokyo Tokei Seimitsu. To be precise, "Chrono Tokyo" is the brand name for the domestic market sold by the watch specialty store "TiCTAC," while there is also a separate "Chrono Bunkyo Tokyo" for the overseas market. While the basic specs are the same for both watches, the former has the "CHRONO" logo at 12 o'clock, while the latter has the katakana "Chrono," making it easy to tell the two apart. To avoid redundancy, please note that in this article, "Chrono Tokyo" may also refer to "Chrono Bunkyo Tokyo."

　There is much to say about this collection on its own, but in order to understand the philosophy that underlies it, let's first trace the history of Hajime Asaoka, the independent watchmaker who created Chrono Tokyo.

Independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka

　Anyone familiar with watches will have heard of the name "Hajime Asaoka." Asaoka is an internationally recognized independent watchmaker, and became a member of the Academie Horlogerie Independente (AHCI) in 2015. AHCI is an international organization established in 1985 with the aim of passing on traditional watchmaking techniques. As can be inferred from its small size of currently just over 30 full members, to be recognized as a member one must possess outstanding watchmaking skills and have a proven track record.

　So, after passing through this narrow gate, has Asaoka's life been devoted to watches? Surprisingly, Asaoka, who was born in 65, only began making watches in 2005. He learned the necessary know-how on his own, and never attended a vocational school. This is an unusual career path for an independent watchmaker.

　Born in Chigasaki, Kanagawa Prefecture, Asaoka graduated from the Department of Design at Tokyo University of the Arts, Faculty of Fine Arts, and established the Hajime Asaoka Design Office. He began working as a product designer. Ahead of his time, Asaoka mastered computer graphics techniques such as 3DCG, and in addition to his work as a product designer, he expanded his methods of expression into graphic design. After designing advertisements and magazines for famous brands such as Dunhill, he made a name for himself in the industry.

　A request for a watch design came in from TiCTAC, a watch specialty store with locations across the country. The brand is MODERNICA, a furniture manufacturer that inherits the mid-century craftsmanship spirit. Asaoka, who worked on his first watch design, made extensive use of mid-century colors to create a watch whose coloring and design could be changed to suit tastes and moods. These watches, which were well received for their modern designs, must have ignited a fire in Asaoka's heart. From then on, Asaoka began making watches on his own.

　His career as a designer was going smoothly, but the Lehman Shock of 08 had an impact on the advertising industry. With fewer requests, Asaoka had freed up time, so he decided to take advantage of it. He decided to work on a tourbillon, a watch that is synonymous with complex mechanisms. Nowadays, with the development of computer-controlled manufacturing technologies such as CNC lathes, mass production of tourbillons is no longer impossible. However, at the time, tourbillons were truly out of reach. Even in Japan, no brand had succeeded in developing one. Just over six months after starting work, Asaoka completed the first domestically produced tourbillon watch, the "Tourbillon Prototype." While this model was not for sale, his achievement was featured in the magazine "BRUTUS," attracting considerable attention.

Entering the watch industry and the birth of the "Hajime Asaoka" brand

　After developing the Tourbillon Prototype, Asaoka began producing watches for sale under the "Hajime Asaoka" brand. This marked Asaoka's full-fledged entry into the watch industry and his start as Japan's first independent watchmaker. In 11, the brand released its first work, the "Tourbillon #1," an improved version of the "Tourbillon Prototype." The 42mm stainless steel case houses a manual-winding tourbillon movement, the movement of which can be viewed through an opening at 9 o'clock on the dial.

　The vertical stripes on the dial recall the tourbillon prototype. As befits the work of an independent watchmaker who crafts not only the movement but also the case, dial, hands, and crown, each design is overflowing with originality. The smooth case and syringe-like hands are common to current works, demonstrating the high level of refinement of the design even back then. The "Tourbillon #1," sold at Ginza Wako, was handmade, with an annual production of only about 10 pieces, but was well-received and is now sold out. Incidentally, Seiko released its first tourbillon watch, the "FUGAKU," in 16, and Citizen released its first tourbillon watch, the "Y01," in 17. It is not surprising that Asaoka's challenge had a significant impact on both companies.

　The second watch released is the "TSUNAMI," a simple three-hand watch with a small seconds function, a stark departure from the previous tourbillon model. While the design is superb, featuring a two-tone dial made with specially formulated ink, Arabic numeral indexes with thickness achieved by multiple layers of ink, and hands that curve sharply toward the periphery, the appeal of this model also lies in its movement. Looking into the movement through the see-through back, the first thing that catches your eye is the massive 15mm diameter balance wheel. To utilize the dead space in the movement, the TSUNAMI employs a technique known as a "protruding balance," which places the balance wheel one step higher than the bridge.

　While most movements have the balance wheel housed under a bridge, movements with this type of spring balance are often found in antique pocket watches. Some people may have seen movements with barely visible gears, with only the balance wheel resting on a flat bridge. By using this classic method, it was possible to fit a huge balance wheel, which ensures high precision, into a 37mm case, the ideal diameter for a wristwatch. This movement is a 5-beat movement, which is rarely seen in modern watches, and the way the balance wheel rotates slowly has captured the hearts of many collectors.

　The company continued to release new products one after another. In 14, it announced "Project T," a watch that brought together Japan's technological prowess. In 16, after becoming a joint-stock company under the name Tokyo Tokei Seimitsu, it released the "Tourbillon Pura," featuring a carriage made of ultra-super duralumin (A7075). In 17, it released the "Chronograph," an open-dial watch with a 15mm balance wheel. The full story of Project T, which was realized through design and assembly by Asaoka, parts manufacturing by Yuki Seimitsu, and tool development by OSG, is told in "Japan-Made Tourbillon: Japanese Manufacturing Takes on Ultra-Luxury Mechanical Wristwatches" (Nikkan Kogyo Shimbun, 2015), edited by Hajime Asaoka and co-authored by Masato Otsubo, Jiro Osawa, and Masamasa Hirota.

　As an aside, there is an easy way to experience the high level of processing technology of Yuki Precision, which was involved in this project. That is the "SEIMITSU COMA" sold by the company. It is a small top, but when you spin it, it does not wobble at all, and appears to be standing still in place. It would be impossible to achieve something like this without precisely cutting it around the axis. SEIMITSU COMA can be purchased from the company's online shop, etc. If you are interested, we recommend you give it a try.

　Above is a brief introduction to the watches created by Asaoka. They all have a clear concept and a unique appeal, but they all have one thing in common: they are watches that Asaoka wanted to make himself. Generally, mass-produced products need to be purchased by many people. Therefore, they often have specifications that are sought after by the masses, determined through marketing. It is true that there are trends in case sizes and colors for watches as well, and many brands follow these trends.

　However, Asaoka creates watches entirely according to his own will: to make what he wants to make. This is the source of Asaoka's philosophy, which permeates every aspect of each model. The customers who purchase Asaoka's watches, created in this way, are a distinguished group of people, including members of the royal family and world-class watch collectors. It is said that there is a waiting period of as long as five years until delivery. Asaoka handles almost every process himself. This includes not only polishing each part to perfection, but also trial and error in ink blending to achieve the ideal color, meticulous design, and manually inputting the machining paths to optimize the operation of the CNC lathe. It is precisely because customers understand this that they are happy to join the waiting list, even if it means a five-year wait.

Chrono Tokyo was born as Hajime Asaoka's private watch.

　Now, let's move on to the main topic, "Chrono Tokyo." As mentioned above, Tokyo Tokei Seimitsu's watches are so popular that they have a five-year waiting list. Asaoka, who is responsible for producing these watches, had a problem: "I can't make a watch for myself." He was so inundated with orders that he didn't have time to make his own watches. In addition, as someone who works in the watch industry, Asaoka felt a sense of crisis about the recent soaring prices of mechanical watches. So he set out to create a model that was priced appropriately as an entry-level mechanical watch, yet had the design and quality that Asaoka would want to use as his own personal watch. This was the beginning of Chrono Tokyo.

　However, this was not an easy task. While Asaoka had designed the Chrono Tokyo, manufacturing was outsourced, and the movement was a generic one from another company. All of Asaoka's previous watches had been high-priced, small-scale production items that were individually carved, but the Chrono Tokyo was a product designed for mass production, with a low price. It was not possible to carve each case individually, which meant that the initial investment, including the molds required for production, was high. In order to recoup this initial investment and turn a profit, the unit price had to be raised or the number of units sold had to be increased. This must have been a major hurdle for a brand that focused on balancing price and quality.

　Chrono Tokyo has expanded its collection by increasing the number of dial variations while keeping the main components such as the case, hands, and crown consistent across all models. This allows customers to enjoy the joy of choosing and collecting, while overcoming the drawbacks inherent to mass-produced products. The Chrono Tokyo is available in two main models: a three-hand model and a chronograph model.