Review of the Ulysse Nardin 175th Anniversary Model, the Marine Torpilleur Annual Calendar Chronograph

To celebrate its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin has launched the Marine Torpilleur series, based on iconic models from the past. This time, we will be reviewing the Marine Torpilleur Annual Calendar Chronograph, a chronograph model with an annual calendar that was released from this series.

An annual calendar chronograph model with refined functional beauty

　Torpilleur is a French word referring to a small boat designed to launch torpedoes at larger, heavily armed warships on the battlefield. In 2017, Ulysse Nardin adopted the name and applied it to an ambitious, priced watch equipped with an in-house movement. In 2021, Ulysse Nardin celebrated its 175th anniversary by expanding the Torpilleur series as a tribute to its glorious past, supplying chronometers to navies around the world during the 19th and 20th centuries.

　François-Xavier Otier, President of Ulysse Nardin Americas, explains, "Chronometry has been a constant presence for us for 175 years. This new Marine limited edition was designed for our friends and collectors around the world, paying homage to our past as a supplier of watches to most of the world's navies. This launch is a wonderful way to introduce a chapter in the brand and is fitting for the many cutting-edge pieces we have introduced over the past two years. In short, this collection allows you to travel back in time, focus on the present, or even glimpse the brand's future."

　For a moment of time travel, in 1846, 23-year-old Ulysse Nardin (January 22, 1823 – February 20, 1876) noticed a growing demand for pocket watches and marine chronometers capable of measuring time with the highest level of precision, resulting in a reputation that would see him receive more than 4300 awards over the next few decades, including 18 gold medals. His clients included the United States Navy. In 1905, the Washington Naval Observatory held a competition to find a watchmaker who could supply torpedo boat crews with superior chronometers. Ulysse Nardin won the competition over the course of several years, building a continuing relationship as the official supplier to the U.S. Navy into the 1950s.

　The seven models in the Marine Torpilleur series showcase Ulysse Nardin's current capabilities in various ways: in-house movements, silicon components, tourbillons, moon phases, enamel dials, and, as seen in the featured chronographs, elapsed time measurement and annual calendars. The automatic calibers UN-118 (blue enamel and panda models) and UN-119 (moon phase) are COSC chronometer certified.

　Ottier commented, "When using new materials such as silicon, I believe it is becoming increasingly important to verify performance by testing the watch under actual wearable conditions. In other words, this means testing under the same conditions as the watch will be worn by the owner after casing. This is why we issue our own brand-specific certification, the Ulysse Nardin Chronometer & Performance Certificate. It not only tests the performance of the movement, but also includes additional functions such as the calendar, chronograph and power reserve indicator. Some Ulysse Nardin watches are COSC certified, but I believe our certification gives collectors an even greater sense of security."

The Marine Torpilleur Annual Calendar Chronograph is available with a lacquered white or matte blue dial and is powered by the in-house automatic caliber UN-153. The dial features silver counters at 9 and 3 o'clock, and the annual calendar automatically switches between the month display at 9 o'clock and the date display at 6 o'clock. The movement can be adjusted forward and backward using the large crown. This conveniently means that the month and date can be adjusted forward and backward in case of accidental overshoot. The caliber UN-153 can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back, and its partially openworked rotor features an anchor motif along with a frosted surface.

　The model shown here (Ref. 1533-320LE-0A-175/1A) features a clean white dial with Roman numerals and tempered blue stainless steel hands, creating a well-balanced horizontal chronograph layout. It is paired with a leather strap with large white stitching, which can also be replaced with a blue strap sold separately.

　The 50m water-resistant stainless steel case is 44mm in diameter, but the compact design of the lugs means it doesn't feel too large on the wrist. Additionally, the white dial and blue hands make it versatile and effortlessly straddle the line between elegance and sportiness. The white dial is generally more legible (probably more so than the blue dial), but the lack of luminous treatment on the hands and dial makes it unsuitable for cruises after dark.

　The greatest advantage of this model is its annual calendar function, which is both easy to use and convenient, second only to the power reserve indicator. Furthermore, with its in-house movement, distinctive maritime design, and limited production run, there are plenty of reasons to go on a watch cruise with Ulysse Nardin.