Imperial Hotel Torakuro opened in a long-established hotel last fall in partnership with a three-star Japanese restaurant. Masashi Takami shows off his skills in a refined space that exudes a sense of realism.
Photographs by Yu Mitamura
[Published in the September 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]

Freshly farmed soft-shelled turtles from Nagasaki are split and then cooked at low temperature to give them a moist and tender texture. They are made with "Muroto Salt," a natural salt made with Muroto's deep ocean water, which is rich in umami. The dish is then quickly cooked over a strong charcoal fire, and is brought to the diners, imbued with a rich aroma. The elegantly dyed dish is a square floral plate from the Seika era, modeled after a painting by Rosanjin, by Kyoto ceramicist Toshihiko Hirono.
Faithful craftsmanship that touches the hearts of diners
Born in Tochigi Prefecture in 1991. After graduating from a local high school with a culinary department, he attended a vocational school for a year to further his studies. After graduating, he spent 11 years honing his skills at the Japanese restaurants "Kagurazaka Ishikawa" and "Toshiro," both of which have been awarded three Michelin stars. In November 2021, he was appointed head chef of "Imperial Hotel Torakuro."
A new Japanese restaurant, "Imperial Hotel Torakuro," has opened at the historic Imperial Hotel. The restaurant is a collaboration with the Ishikawa Group, which operates seven restaurants, including the three-star Michelin restaurants "Kagurazaka Ishikawa" and "Koshiro," as well as the one-star restaurants "Ren Sanshichi" and "Hato," bringing a breath of fresh air to the hotel, which has traditionally been known for its French cuisine.
The restaurant is led by Takami Masashi, who spent 11 years training at "Koshiro." "My family runs a Japanese restaurant in Kanuma, Tochigi Prefecture, which has been in business for two generations. I grew up watching my father, a chef, and it was a big influence on me. Ever since I was old enough to understand, my dream was to become a chef. When I told my father that I wanted to work at the Imperial Hotel, he told me that he had previously worked at a Kyoto restaurant that was located here, and I felt a strange connection." Having fulfilled his childhood dream, Takami exudes a commanding presence at the young age of 30.
The name "Tora Kuro" is a playful and easy-to-remember name, coined from the Chinese character for tiger, "white" (tiger), which Takami has honed his skills in. The playfulness of changing the kanji for tiger (tiger) from white to black is both appealing and easy to remember. Since then, the restaurant has been creating new menu items every day, with the motto of "one prototype a day."
"Salted Soft-shelled Turtle" was also born from this, and is a dish that speaks to the essence of Takami. Grilled soft-shelled turtle is often seasoned with sauce, but this dish is simply seasoned with salt. While it may look simple at first glance, once you put it in your mouth you will be impressed by the careful craftsmanship and the skill with which it is cooked.
"Delicious food can only be created in a beautiful place," is what Koizumi Kosuke, the owner of "Koshiro," said. He takes this idea to heart as he approaches his work. He also recalls that he learned the most important fundamentals, such as greetings, courtesy, and consideration, during his training. His graceful manners behind the counter and his gentle hospitality that captures the hearts of his guests may stem from these carefully cultivated fundamentals.
Chef Takami looks straight ahead and says, "I want to please the customers who come here today. Everything I do is with that goal in mind." His sincere passion is conveyed to the customers, making them want to eat there again and visit again.
Imperial Hotel Torakuro

Tower Building B1F, 1-1-1 Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Tel.03-3539-8224
Closed on Sundays, Mondays and public holidays
17:00 AM – 22:00 PM (L.O. 20:30 PM)
Omakase menu from 33,000 yen (10% service charge not included)

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