Why are bronze watches becoming more common these days? / Spring Q&A - Answering your watch questions

2024.01.19

Q: Why are bronze watches becoming more popular these days?

Previously, bronze cases were only used in a small number of watches, but in recent years, the number of bronze watches has been increasing rapidly. Why is this happening?

Masayuki Hirota

Article published on June 2024, 1


A: The unique aging of bronze has come to be appreciated.

 Bronze is a material that is gaining popularity among watch enthusiasts. In the past, people tended to dislike the fact that its color changed over time, but recently, many people seem to see it as a charming element. Nowadays, major manufacturers are using it, and it is increasingly being adopted for diver's watches, which are used in harsh environments.

 Brass, which is widely used in the watch industry, is an alloy of copper and zinc. Bronze, on the other hand, is the same copper alloy, but it is mixed with tin instead of zinc. Bronze is more difficult to process than brass, but it is characterized by its rust and scratch resistance. For this reason, it has long been used for hardware on ships and in areas with water.

Panerai Bronzo

Photograph by Eiichi Okuyama
Panerai's Bronzo collection is said to have sparked the bronze case boom. Since its debut in 2011, the Bronzo has been released in multiple limited edition models, all of which sold out immediately, and in 19 it was finally made into a regular model.

 Panerai was the first to take notice of this unique material, and their bronze-cased "Bronzo" collection became a global hit. Today, IWC, Montblanc, Tudor, and other brands also use bronze cases, and bronze cases are becoming more common in the more affordable price ranges.


There are also attempts to make it less susceptible to discoloration by adding aluminum.

 Bronze develops a unique character over time, but it does have some drawbacks. One is that it can easily cause metal allergies. For this reason, most bronze-cased watches have their case backs replaced with less allergic materials, such as titanium. Another drawback is that some bronze cases age too dramatically. Many watch enthusiasts appreciate this as a unique feature, but the cuffs of their shirts can easily get dirty.

 However, some manufacturers are now using a new bronze case that is less susceptible to aging. The main difference is that a small amount of aluminum is mixed into the material. While you won't enjoy the dramatic changes that you'd see with previous bronze cases, it's still suitable for everyday use. Manufacturers using such bronze cases include IWC, Tudor, Montblanc, and Hamilton.


Bronze model

 We will introduce the current model made of bronze material.


Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Tudor Black Bay 58 79012

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze
This bronze model of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has a small 39mm case diameter. It is made of an alloy of aluminum and bronze. It features a "bronze brown" bezel and dial to match the color of the bronze material, making it a distinctive feature. It also comes with a bronze bracelet and a fabric strap. The case back is made of bronze-colored PVD stainless steel. Automatic movement (Cal. MT5400). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Bronze case (diameter 39mm, thickness 11.9mm). Water resistant to 200m. Exclusive to boutiques. 680,900 yen (tax included).


IWC "Pilot's Watch Automatic Spitfire"

IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic Spitfire

IWC "Pilot's Watch Automatic Spitfire"
This model, part of IWC's Pilot's Watch collection, is named after the Spitfire fighter plane designed by British aviation engineer Reginald Joseph Mitchell. While the combination of a bronze case and green color is a modern design, the highly legible, simple dial and authentic case shape also evoke the feel of a military watch from the past. The case back is made of titanium. Automatic winding (Cal. 32111). 21 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 120 hours. Bronze case (diameter 39mm, thickness 11.9mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Price: 825,000 yen (tax included).


Sinn "T50.GOLDBRONZE"

Sinn T50 Bronze

Sinn "T50.GOLDBRONZE"
This diver's watch is crafted using "Gold Bronze 125," a proprietary alloy developed by Sinn and currently under patent application. It features a bronze-derived alloy and a scratch-finished dial, and boasts high specs, including water resistance to 50 bar. The case back is made of titanium. Automatic movement (Cal. SW300-1). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Gold Bronze 125 case (41mm diameter, 12.3mm thick). Water resistance to 50 bar. Limited to 300 pieces worldwide. Price: 1,188,000 yen (tax included).


Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
This full bronze model from the Big Crown collection embodies Oris' legacy of pilot's watch manufacturing. The wide variety of dial colors is a delight. The case back is stainless steel. Automatic (Cal. Oris 754). 26 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Bronze case (40mm diameter). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 440,000 yen (tax included).


Top 10 Bronze-Cased Watches That Achieve Aging

http://www.webchronos.net/ranking/43559/
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Review: A watch with a deep, nurturing feel / Impressions

http://www.webchronos.net/features/100716/
Optimally controlling the aging of bronze

http://www.webchronos.net/features/82449/