Testing the Modernly Updated Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer

FEATURES WatchTime
2022.02.22

Omega has taken a bold step in kicking off 2021 by elevating the legendary Moonwatch to Master Chronometer status with the release of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer. While the watch features a new movement, testing has confirmed that its appearance remains faithful to the design of the cult model.

Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer

Nylon strap model of the "Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer." Manual winding (Cal. 3861). 26 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42mm, thickness 13.58mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 770,000 yen (tax included).
Originally published on watchtime.com
Text by Martina Richter
Article published on June 2022, 2

Equipped with the hand-wound caliber 3861, which features a coaxial escapement and a silicon balance spring.

 Master Chronometer standard, featuring ultra-high magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss and high isochronism. Omega first introduced this in 2015. Since then, Omega has gradually replaced each new model with a Master Chronometer. Finally, in January 2021, with the release of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer, the Master Chronometer standard was adopted for the standard Speedmaster model. The Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer was released as part of a wide lineup. It features cases crafted from stainless steel or Omega's exclusive Sedna gold or Canopus gold, historically inspired Hesalite or modern sapphire crystal crystals, closed or transparent case backs, and a choice of leather, nylon, or metal bracelet straps.

 For this test, we chose a model with Hesalite crystal, a closed case back, and a stainless steel bracelet. It costs 814,000 yen (tax included). The most expensive model, however, is the 18K Canopus Gold model, priced at 5,764,000 yen (tax included). Omega President and CEO Raynald Aeschlimann said, "When redesigning a cult watch like the Speedmaster Moonwatch, every detail must remain faithful to the watch's original spirit. This chronograph is known worldwide, so we approached it with great respect for its design, while at the same time elevating the movement to the next level of watchmaking."

 Omega plans to certify all new watches as Master Chronometers in 2023. Currently, Omega produces between 60 and 70 watches per year, and 99.99% of Omega watches are already certified.

Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer

The Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer is also available in Sedna Gold (left) and Canopus Gold (right), both of which use Omega's exclusive precious metals.

 Omega's respect for its past is evident. The Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer is inspired by the fourth-generation Moonwatch (Ref. ST 105.012), worn by the Apollo 11 astronauts on their 1969 moon mission. Both models feature crown guards, resulting in asymmetrical cases. The Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer also features a guard between the hat-shaped pushers and the crown, in keeping with its historical heritage. To protect against shocks and accidental manipulation, the crown is quite heavy, and the guards make it difficult to grip. Furthermore, reaching the approximately 50-hour power reserve of the caliber 3861 requires a significant number of manual windings, making it somewhat arduous.

 However, the act of manual winding is a beloved ritual for watch enthusiasts, as evidenced by the increasing number of manual-wind watches on the market today. If you forget to wind this watch for two consecutive days, you'll need to adjust the time—a task that's easily accomplished by simply sliding a pawl under the crown and pulling it out. Because the Moonwatch lacks a date display, the crown has no middle position. Instead, the caliber 3861 is equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, making it easy to set the time accurately. As a Master Chronometer, this watch deviates to within one second per day in all situations, whether fully wound, with or without the chronograph running, or whether worn or not. It's also notable for the fact that the readings are consistent with individual positional differences and maintain a stable oscillation angle even when the power reserve is low.

Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer

In addition to the three subdials, the watch features a step dial with domed minute and chronograph seconds hands, and a minute track adjusted to match the frequency of the new movement.

 The caliber 3861 is derived from the historic caliber 861. When the chronograph is started, the arrow-tipped chronograph seconds hand also begins to move. It precisely divides each second into six parts, corresponding to the movement's frequency of 21,600 vph. Omega also provides two chronograph seconds markings at 3 hertz. The same neat strokes are also found on the stepped Tri-Compax subdial.

 The use of Hesalite crystal instead of sapphire crystal for the crystal is one of the most authentic features carried over from the Moonwatch. However, Hesalite is prone to scratches, which was evident during our test wear. If you are concerned about scratches, you may want to opt for the sapphire crystal crystal.

Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer

The bracelet is made up of five arched links with a brushed finish.

 The Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer is powered by the caliber 3861, which was unveiled in spring 2019 after more than four years of development. Its starting point was the caliber 861, which had been produced since 1968 and was based on the Lemania caliber 1873. It beats at a frequency of 21,600 vph and features 30-minute and 12-hour counters, a cam switch, and a horizontal coupling. In addition to all of these features, the caliber 3861 also retains the caliber 861's dimensions of 27mm in diameter and 6.87mm thick.

 Caliber 3861 is equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism. Furthermore, thanks to the latest manufacturing techniques, the gears have been reshaped to allow for deeper meshing and smoother movement. Of course, this new caliber also features Omega's proprietary Co-Axial escapement, introduced in 1999. Furthermore, as an important requirement for Master Chronometer certification, the escapement is equipped with a silicon balance spring, which guarantees protection against the 15,000 gauss magnetic fields required for certification. The power reserve has also been extended from approximately 38 hours to approximately 50 hours.

Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer

Manual-winding chronograph caliber 3861 with Co-Axial escapement. Based on caliber 861 introduced in 1968.

 The stainless steel bracelet has a fixed connector and is one piece with the case, a common feature of the current model. The five-row bracelet is secured with screws and tapers towards the clasp.

 The single-sided deployant clasp, featuring a polished Omega logo and a satin finish, is reminiscent of early Moonwatch models. A subtle detail, but one that will be of great importance to enthusiasts and collectors, is that the dot at the number 90 on the dial side of the previous model has been replaced with a "Dot over 90" on the anodized aluminum bezel ring, placed above the number 90. Similarly, the dot at the number 70 has been replaced with a "Dot Diagonal to 70" below the number 70. Details like these unique to this model ensure that, even with the modern movement, it will continue to write history alongside the legendary Moonwatch.

Accuracy stability test

(Period difference in seconds, when fully wound/after 24 hours)
When wearing: + 1.1
On the dial: + 1.8 / + 3.2
Below the dial: + 0.5 / + 1.3
Above 3 o'clock: + 1.3 / + 1.8
Below 3 o'clock: 0.0/−0.2
3 o'clock left: + 2.6 / + 2.0
Maximum posture difference: 2.6/3.4
Average daily difference: + 1.2 / + 1.6
Average swing angle
Horizontal posture: 311 ° / 294 °
Vertical posture: 305 ° / 297 °

Score

Strap & Clasp (Max 10Pt): A new stainless steel bracelet inspired by history with a functional folding clasp and screw-fastened parts attached to the clasp.
Case (10): Asymmetrical historically inspired case. Hesalite crystal is easily scratched, but sapphire crystal is also available. Closed case back. 8Pt
Dial and hands (10): A design inspired by history. Clean and precise scale, appropriate hands. 8Pt
Design (15): The Moonwatch is a style icon. Meticulously modified. Bezel with historic details. Recognized value. 12pt
Visibility (5): It is easy to read the time day or night. The hands are of appropriate length and have accurate elapsed seconds. There is no date display. 4Pt
Operability (5): The crown is a little difficult to operate. The pusher has a good feel.
Wearing comfort (5): The case and strap structure are comfortable to wear, creating a pleasing proportion.
Movement (20): Modern movement with hand-wound, column wheel, and frequency based on historical details. COSC certified. METAS certified Master Chronometer. 19 pts.
Accuracy (10): Very good score in all situations. There are slight differences in the values ​​and swing angles in some positions. 10 points
Overall rating (10): The Moonwatch is a legend successfully modernized and more cost-effective than similar watches.
total: 89Pt

*This article is a translation of the German version of Kronos.


Contact info: Omega Customer Center Tel. 03-5952-4400


Explore the appeal of Omega watches. Introducing their features and recommended models.

http://www.webchronos.net/features/35364/
Reviewing the New Bond Watch: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

http://www.webchronos.net/features/70717/
Omega's New Watches for 2021

http://www.webchronos.net/features/63178/