Patek Philippe: A timeless icon that combines the legibility of a sideometer with the convenience of a travel time display

2022.03.20

The general image of the pilot's watch genre is one that is always associated with standardized functionality. However, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, released in 2015, embodies the freedom of being unconstrained by such preconceived notions. Its extraordinary ability to incorporate the symbolism and legibility of a pilot's watch into a practical travel watch makes it a fitting new icon for Patek Philippe.

(Right) Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524
First released in 2015. A masterpiece that combines the functionality of travel time with a pilot-style design. The strap is made of vintage brown calfskin. Automatic winding (Cal. 324 SC FUS). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KWG (diameter 42.0mm, thickness 10.78mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Price: 6,182,000 yen (tax included).
(Left) Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234
This medium-sized model with a white gold case was added in 2020. The white gold case is paired with a blue dial, but the strap also features a lustrous blue color. Automatic (Cal. 324 SC FUS). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. 18K white gold (diameter 37.5mm, thickness 10.78mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Price: 5,577,000 yen (tax included).
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Text by Hiroyuki Suzuki
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]


Patek Philippe "Calatrava Pilot Travel Time"

The hour and minute hands have been restyled in a baton shape while retaining the look of rose gold hands. The technique of narrowing the tip and extending the tip is reminiscent of the 1930s. The hour hand that displays the home time is skeletonized.

 The 1930s, a time when commercial airlines saw great growth, was also a time when pilot watches underwent rapid evolution. The Siderometer, a special watch designed solely for astronomical purposes, was produced for a short period in the mid-30s.

 This device, known as an hour angle clock or star finder, is designed to measure the position of the fixed stars in degrees. The hour hand rotates in 24 hours (360 degrees), with each mark representing 60 degrees. The minute hand rotates in 4 hours (60 degrees), with each mark representing 1 degree, and the second hand rotates in 4 minutes, with each mark representing 1 minute (1/60th of a degree). Because the hand cycle is different from that of a regular clock, it cannot display the time, but its design shares many similarities with aviation deck watches from the same era.

The Arabic numerals, often seen on early pilot watches from the 1920s and 30s, are serif typefaces, but instead of being printed, they are applied with a three-dimensional Super-LumiNova finish.

 Patek Philippe produced a small number of Sidelometer watches in 1936, two of which are housed in the Geneva Museum. The watches are equipped with a 19-ligne manual-winding movement. With a case diameter of over 50 mm, they stand out among the Patek Philippe archives.

 The museum added these two watches to its collection in 1991 and 2009. Taking inspiration from them, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524, which debuted in 2015, also surprised enthusiasts and watch enthusiasts alike when it first came out as a unique Patek Philippe.

(Right) PPM 844, (Left) PPM 1655
Two Sidelometer watches produced in 1936. The PPM 844 on the right is movement No. 170383/case No. 613 411, while the PPM 1655 on the left is movement No. 170381/case No. 613 559. The latter features a split-type minute angle indicator (equivalent to the second hand). The angle reading in the example on the right is 308 degrees and 0 minutes. Both movements feature 19-ligne, 21-jewel lever escapements and comply with the Poinçon de Genève standard. Features include a regulator with a swan-neck fine adjustment mechanism and a ratchet wheel with Wolf's Teeth teeth. Both have black enamel dials. Diameters are 55mm (the former is 56mm and the latter is 55.3mm according to the auction listing documents). Currently housed at the Patek Philippe Museum.

 The case diameter of 42mm is quite large compared to the traditional image of the Calatrava. The highly functional dial design evokes the image of a typical pilot's watch, but little was known about why Patek Philippe created a pilot's watch. When the 7234 with a 37.5mm case diameter was added in 18, the freedom of styling was greatly increased, and the Calatrava grew into an iconic model accepted by a wider range of people.

Day and night display for both home and local time. The home time is operated by the crown linked to the skeleton hand, and the local time is operated by the pusher linked to the sub-hour hand. Only the first day of the calendar is displayed in red.

 What was extraordinary about Patek Philippe was that while clearly acknowledging its historical roots in the Sidelometer from the 1930s, it completely transformed the design, prioritizing functionality as a watch. And above all, by incorporating a travel time function, it was transformed into a practical complication. While restoring the functionality of the dual timer to a modern pilot's watch, by extracting DNA from the Sidelometer of yesteryear, the dial is also extremely easy to read.

The second time zone display sub-hour hand, coated with Super-LumiNova, can be independently operated using the pushers on the left side of the case, with 8 o'clock moving forward and 10 o'clock moving backward, and it also features a bayonet locking mechanism.

 For example, the serif Arabic numerals are a typical detail of 1930s pilot watches, but rather than using paint for purely practical purposes, the company has used a three-dimensional applied finish to enhance the texture, which is typical of the company. The second time zone display hand (the hour hand coated with Super-LumiNova) can be fast-forwarded or reversed by operating the pushers at 8 and 10 o'clock, and the pointer date display at 6 o'clock also works in conjunction with this. The day & night display, which displays both home time and local time independently, is also extremely convenient when used in practice.

The profile strongly reflects the modern Calatrava design approach. The volume is distributed through the height of the bezel and the rounded sides of the middle case, resulting in a finish that does not feel unnecessarily thick. The corrector located between the lugs at 6 o'clock is for adjusting the calendar. As a result of the relatively reduced case diameter, this medium size gives the impression of a more condensed dial. The height at which the indexes and hands are attached also shows a consistent sense of balance.

 With the development of air traffic control, the sidelometer ceased to function as a standardized navigational aid, and pilot's watches subsequently evolved into standardized navigational aids. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time's high degree of freedom is perhaps due to its roots dating back to a time before this standardization. It is a rare timepiece that combines the convenience of a modern travel tool with the legibility inherited from pilots.

(Right) Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234
This medium-sized watch was released in 2018. The strap features cross stitching and a unique flip-top screw-down pin buckle. Automatic movement (Cal. 324S C FUS). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve: approximately 45 hours. 18KRG (diameter 37.5mm, thickness 10.78mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Price: 5,577,000 yen (tax included).
(Left) Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524
The RG case version was added in 2018. The lustrous brown dial, highlighting the sunburst pattern, features a black gradient on the outer edge. Automatic movement (Cal. 324 SC FUS). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KRG (diameter 42.0mm, thickness 10.78mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Price: 6,182,000 yen (tax included).



Contact info: Patek Philippe Japan Information Center Tel. 03-3255-8109


Eternal elegance: Patek Philippe's Inline Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P

http://www.webchronos.net/features/71370/
A deep dive into Patek Philippe's new Calatrava 6119

http://www.webchronos.net/features/63157/
3 Recommended Calatravas from Patek Philippe: Their Appeal and How to Choose

http://www.webchronos.net/features/45456/