Q: What is the definition of the luxury sports watch that is popular these days?

The luxury sports watch genre has become popular recently, but is there a definition for this genre? What kind of watch can be called a luxury sports watch?

Masayuki Hirota

Article published on June 2022, 3


A: The minimum requirement is that the exterior is well-made. There are six other requirements.

 Luxury sports watches have become mainstream in the watch industry. This genre of watch, which began with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972, has been tackled by various manufacturers since the 2010s. The minimum requirement is a well-made exterior. Recently, new elements have also been required.

Free-sprung balance

Free Sprang

 A free-sprung balance adjusts the balance weight instead of the regulator that adjusts the gain or loss of a mechanical watch. This shock-resistant mechanism is ideal for sports watches. A while ago, only Patek Philippe and Rolex used it, but it has now become quite common. However, there are many shock-resistant movements that do not have a free-sprung balance.

The bracelet links are screw-set

Chopard Bracelet

 Unless the bracelet is made of titanium or is thin, it is best to use screw-set bracelet links, as these are less likely to break even if the bracelet is subjected to a strong shock.

Excellent fit

ブライトリングクロノマト

 This was originally achieved with the Royal Oak in 1972. Now that manufacturers are placing more emphasis on comfort, it has become even more essential. Even if a watch is heavy, it should be comfortable as long as the weight of the watch and bracelet is balanced.

Water resistance of over 100m

Laureato

 Unlike in the past, luxury sports watches now require a water resistance of at least 100m. While it was previously difficult to achieve 100m water resistance in a thin case, technological advances have made it possible.

Exterior with a combination of polished and satin finishes

Case Side

 The contrast between polished and satin finishes is an essential element of luxury sports watches. The former gives the watch a sense of luxury, while the latter gives it a sporty feel. Recently, the combination of these two has come to emphasize the three-dimensionality of the watch.

Enough glow-in-the-dark paint

Bell & Ross Dial

 If it's a sports watch, the hands and indices should be coated with luminous paint.


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