OMEGA takes on the challenge of industrialization through innovation and mass production

Co-Axial escapement, silicon balance spring, 18K Sedna gold. Continuing the spirit of the 1950s, Omega has innovated key movement and case materials in its watchmaking. Nearly all models are scheduled to receive Master Chronometer certification in 2022. Gregory Kissling, Head of Product Management at the Swiss giant, took us behind the scenes to learn more about the development process.

Omega aims to have all its mechanical models certified as Master Chronometers by 2022

　When British watchmaker George Daniels invented the Co-Axial escapement, he probably never imagined that his invention—the regulating mechanism that keeps the balance oscillating—would one day be adopted by a company the size of Omega, even though he himself explained that his invention was intended to "preserve the tastes of mechanical watch enthusiasts in the 21st century." The Swiss giant used this innovation as a springboard for a complete overhaul of its movement portfolio over the course of more than 20 years.

　On the eve of the 21st century, in 1999, Omega introduced the first Co-Axial caliber 2500 with a free-sprung balance, followed in 2007 by the first "in-house" movement dedicated to this innovation, the Co-Axial caliber 8500. Instead of a traditional lever escapement, two coaxial gears and three anchor levers reduced friction in the regulating organ, ensuring stability of the timing functions and longer intervals between maintenance.

　Omega's roots lie in the development of reliable movements. The company takes its name from a movement developed in 1894. A century later, the Co-Axial caliber that forms the basis of all Omega movements has been improved with the adoption of a silicon balance spring and refined with the introduction of new alloys like Sedna gold. This bold movement strategy will culminate in nearly every mechanical model in Omega's catalog being Master Chronometer certified by 2022. Gregory Kisling, the man responsible for these developments, explains how this quest for new timekeeping unfolded.

Europa Star (hereinafter referred to as ES): How do you understand "innovation"?

Gregory Kisling (GK): Innovation is a good thing. But for a brand like ours, with a fixed production volume, the real challenge is industrialization. Without consistent quality, it's impossible to industrialize an innovative approach, let alone control the costs involved. In Omega's case, we also need to maintain consistency with our long history and style. This requires a delicate balance, progressing incrementally without changing the entire collection all at once. Master Chronometer certification is a good example of this gradual innovation. We introduced our first Master Chronometer-certified models in 2015. By 2022, we plan to make almost all our models Master Chronometer-certified, with a few exceptions, such as the caliber 321 in some Speedmasters.

ES: Let's start with the movement. You've been a driving force behind movement innovation at Omega over the past 20 years, and I imagine it all began with the introduction of George Daniels' Co-Axial escapement in 1999.

GK: Initially, we adopted this innovative escapement as an alternative to lever escapements based on ETA movements. But we soon realized we needed to develop our own Co-Axial escapement, which became the driving force behind the Master Chronometer, with a maximum deviation of 0/+5 seconds per day compared to COSC's -4/-6 seconds. Since then, Omega has continued to develop its own in-house movements, and today we have movements recognizable by their distinctive Geneva waves in arabesque.

ES: Another milestone was the introduction of the non-magnetic silicon balance spring in 2008.

GK: This patent dates back to 2002, when we were registered as part of the CSEM (Swiss Research Center for Electronics and Microtechnology). Six years later, we launched our first models equipped with the Si14 (named after the element's chemical symbol and atomic number) silicon balance spring, designed to resist magnetism and enhance the reliability of timekeeping. These include the Co-Axial calibers 8520/8521 in the Seamaster Aqua Terra women's collection and the Co-Axial calibers 8601/8611 with annual calendar in the De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar. We industrialized this invention at Nivarox. Our goal wasn't to develop it in a single movement, but to eventually equip all of our movements. The silicon balance spring is the basis for all our antimagnetic movements. It was also part of the Swatch Group strategy, as other brands also use silicon balance springs.

ES: This technology reached maturity five years later in 2013 with the Co-Axial calibre 8508, which can withstand magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss.

GK: Until then, we had tried to protect the movement from magnetic fields by using an internal casing like a Faraday cage. However, at over 1000 gauss, the magnetic field was strong enough to reach the regulating mechanism. So we focused on making the movement itself antimagnetic. This new technology, first introduced with the Seamaster Aqua Terra, eliminated the need for an internal protective case, allowing us to develop the essential movement without being tied to a specific case. This allowed us to introduce not only a see-through case back, but also a dial with a date window. Technology had caught up with aesthetics.

ES: Two years later, you received the new Master Chronometer certification from the Swiss federal agency METAS. Previously, you were the only company to receive this certification, but in 2021 other brands, such as Tudor, have also started receiving it.

GK: By being a pioneer, we have made great strides in establishing and strengthening standards. Currently, some MRI machines generate magnetic fields exceeding 15,000 gauss. Between 2013 and 2015, we developed antimagnetic movements in several sizes, from 9-ligne women's movements to 13-ligne movements with two barrels. These basic movements allowed us to incorporate several complications, such as day-date and GMT, as well as to develop manual-winding movements. And as for chronographs, the Co-Axial caliber 9300, developed over six years, is the foundational element of a brand that is strongly focused on this type of complication.

ES: Moving on to movement materials, can you talk about the difference between Omega's "standard" and "luxury" movements?

GK: Luxury movements, found in models crafted from precious materials like gold and platinum, feature rotors and balance cocks crafted from Sedna gold. This is a reference to the color of our historic movements, which were recognizable from afar thanks to the gold plating achieved through a galvanic copper process. The problem with rose gold is that it fades over time. So in 2012, we introduced our own Sedna alloy to stabilize its color. This innovation also marked a new beginning for all our materials research. We combine materials research with movement research to design Omega movements for the 21st century.

ES: How has your materials research evolved?

GK: We established cross-functional working groups to develop new alloys, such as Canopus Gold, Moonshine Gold, and Bronze Gold. We also made significant advances in ceramics, bringing about major innovations in ceramics combined with gold, such as Liquidmetal and Ceragold. Exterior components are crucial, requiring industrialization and price control capabilities. Omega has excelled in 5N gold for generations, but we were suddenly faced with the need to find an alternative. Over the years of research and development, we've realized that we can move more efficiently if we have a forward-looking direction. Our products are both what we offer and what drives our research.

ES: For a brand like Omega, which seeks both commercial value and production volume, I think it is important to strike a delicate balance between the parts that are handled by humans and the parts that are handled by machines. What do you think?

GK: That's certainly true. Take the development of laser technology, for example. It has given us new creative possibilities, especially when it comes to dial production. But this development has also created new human jobs. Despite our large production volumes, there is still a very high level of human involvement in the development stage, assembly, finishing and inspection. Technology can be made as efficient as possible, but the fundamental importance of the human element will always remain.