Under Cyril Vigneron, Cartier has recently been returning to iconic models. In 2022, the grid-like dial was brought back to the Pasha de Cartier, and colorful dials were added to the Tank and Santos-Dumont. Furthermore, models that emphasize movement show a new direction for Cartier.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
The Pasha de Cartier now has a grid!
Automatic winding (Cal. 1847 MC). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. 18K Yellow Gold (diameter 41mm, thickness 9.55mm). Water resistant to 100m. Estimated price: 2,274,000 yen (tax included).
The big news for me is that the Pasha de Cartier now has a grid. I've praised the new Pasha here at Chronos. The movement's finish isn't outstanding, and the power reserve isn't long, to be honest. However, the winding efficiency is very good, so it's easy enough for a woman to use. In addition, the in-house exterior is outstanding, typical of Cartier today. As someone who was disappointed with the old Pasha C, I really like the new Pasha, which has a texture similar to the earliest Pashas.
A new addition to the Pasha is the addition of a grid. Modeled after the 1943 model, the grid is designed to protect the crystal. While grids have existed before, the method of fixing the grid has been refined due to improved exterior finishes. There is a bayonet-shaped notch on the inside of the bezel, into which the grid hooks. To remove it, simply press the grid lightly and turn it 90 degrees. Once removed, it looks exactly like a regular Pasha. Unlike previous grids, the new model looks almost identical to the regular model, demonstrating Cartier's evolution.
Unfortunately, the only model available at the moment is 18K gold, though it may be difficult to make the grid resilient in stainless steel. Alternatively, Cartier may only include the grid on the higher-end Pasha models.
It is equipped with the automatic Cal. 1847 MC movement. The power reserve is short and the movement's finish is not outstanding, but it winds very well and the latest version has improved anti-magnetic properties. Even if a woman wears it on a daily basis, it is unlikely to stop working easily. I think it's a good idea to pair the current 1847 MC with the Pasha.
"Tank" competes with color
Manual-wound (Cal. 1917 MC. 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. 18KYG (33.7mm x 25.5mm, 6.6mm thick). Water resistant to 30m. Estimated price: 1,584,000 yen (tax included).
Cartier has long favored silver guilloched dials, but in recent years has begun to incorporate new expressions into its dials. The Tank's colorful dials were a standout in 2022. The red and silver dials feature a base engraved using an electrolytic process (Cartier says this is the first time this has been used on a watch), with the red lacquered. The black dials are lacquered, and the silver ones are plated. The lacquer is polished, while the red and silver ones have a light matte lacquer applied to the surface. Considering Cartier's conservative approach to dials, their control of matte finishes is surprisingly good.
Both models are equipped with the Cal. 1917 MC movement, an improved version of Jaeger-LeCoultre's 846 series. Although the vibration frequency is only 21,600 bph, the larger balance wheel improves theoretical isochronism. These models also feature excellent case finishing, typical of modern Cartier. The case has minimal distortion and matches the Tank's shape well. My personal recommendations are the black and red lacquer dials. Incidentally, the former is also available in a quartz model with a stainless steel case. This is listed as the "Tank Must" rather than the Tank Louis Cartier.
