Experience the touch and feel of the new Navitimer: a completely different Breitling icon

2022.04.02

On March 29, 2022, Breitling announced the new Navitimer. The movement remains the same, the in-house Cal. 01. However, the exterior has been completely redesigned, and the case sizes are now three: 46mm, 43mm, and 41mm. Another major difference is the increased variety of dials.

Navitimer

Masamasa Hirota (Kronos Japan): Interview and writing
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)


Introducing the new Navitimer in various sizes

 Breitling chose to launch the new product on a flight from Zurich to Geneva, where approximately 600 people in the watch industry from around the world were invited to experience the touch and feel of the new Navitimer on board an airplane, an unprecedented event.

Breitling In-Flight Presentation

The touch and feel of the new Navitimer was tested on board.

 The 46mm, 43mm, and 41mm models all share a more three-dimensional shape. The new Navitimer features a slightly more cylindrical dial, accentuating the dome of the crystal. Additionally, the rotating bezel has been changed to a convex shape with a hollowed-out interior, clearly enhancing the three-dimensional feel of the watch. Personally, I welcome this small, yet attractive, change.

 As a result of the stronger curvature of the crystal, the new Navitimer has a relatively thinner middle case. The curvature of the lugs has also been reduced accordingly. Combined with the thinner bezel, slightly smaller pushers, and a rounded bezel, the new Navitimer has a more "classic" feel in a good way.

 The case finish is also different. Previously, the entire case was polished, but the new model is a combination of polished and satin. Breitling has consistently favored polished finishes, but this time they have taken a complete turn and adopted a finish that emphasizes the tool-like feel.


The Navitimer 41, suitable for women too

Navitimer

The Navitimer's design emphasizes three-dimensionality. Even with its small diameter of 41mm, the bombé finish on the dial and crystal stands out.

 Breitling has now added a 41mm size to the Navitimer. Following the success of the women's Chronomat, it's only natural that the company would add a size suitable for women. Perhaps with women in mind, this size does not feature the Navitimer's familiar black and white dial. Additionally, the silver dial model's indices and hands have been changed from silver to gold. While this color scheme is clearly geared toward women, the classic color combination will likely be popular with watch enthusiasts as well. There are four references in the 41mm size, one of which has an 18KRG case.

Navitimer

This model features stainless steel with gold hands and indices. The color scheme is intended to appeal to women, but it suits the classic design of the Navitimer perfectly. The bomb on the dial is definitely worth a look.


The Navitimer 43 with a 70s flair

Navitimer

The black and silver combination has a 70s-style design. The dial is plated and then coated with a matte lacquer. Compared to the previous model, the dial display has been deliberately simplified.

 The new Navitimer is being advertised with a nod to the 1970s. The 43mm size, which is likely to be the best-selling model, also features a striking 1970s-inspired color scheme. There are six 43mm references, and except for one stainless steel case model and one 18K gold case model, the rotating bezel and inset dials have been changed to black. This color scheme was commonly seen in chronographs from the 1960s and 1970s. Personally, I think the model with the black rotating bezel and silver dial is the "killer."

Navitimer

This is a model with a bracelet. Note the precise fit between the bow tube and the case. This improvement has made the bracelet model look even better.


If you have thick wrists, try the Navitimer 46.

Navitimer

It has a standard black dial. However, as the photo shows, the finish is painted, not plated. The white markings are printed on the black dial, but the color of the markings is clear.

 During the Navitimer presentation, CEO Georges Kern declared, "Breitling is a universal brand." This means that the company will develop new products in all directions without any gaps. The Navitimer 46 is a larger model aimed at the European and American markets. The basic design is the same as the 43mm model, but the larger size emphasizes the dial's cylinders more. While the difference is subtle, from what I've seen, this size is the most classic.


Breitling's stance as seen through the changes in the dial

 The biggest change to the new Navitimer is actually the finish of the dial. Previous Navitimers had black dials with a plated finish. By masking the printed area and then applying black plating on top, the Navitimer was able to have very precise printing. This model, on the other hand, has a standard lacquer finish. I was concerned that the precise printing, which is what makes it unique, might have been lost, but the printing itself is just as precise as the previous model. Also, by changing from plating to lacquer, the black color has become even more vibrant. I have a strong sympathy for plated black dials, but a painted lacquer dial would be a good option.

Cal. 01

The B01 camera has a new regulator. It has been changed from the previous Etachron-style regulator to a Triovis-style regulator, which allows for fine adjustments. However, the regulator's tilt adjustment, which was useful up until now, remains. It is a unique regulator, similar to the one used by Daini Seikosha in the past.


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