Vacheron Constantin "Traditional Complete Calendar Open Face" An unprecedented triple calendar born from a rich history

2022.04.22

Vacheron Constantin is a watch manufacturer with a rich heritage. One of these is the triple calendar watches that they have been releasing since the 1940s. The company has produced unique triple calendar watches for the American market, which demands practicality. This history has led to the creation of the new "Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Open Face."

Traditional Complete Calendar Open Face

Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]


A unified "twist," or in other words, tuning unique to a long-established company that brings a "playful spirit"

Traditional Complete Calendar Open Face

 Vacheron Constantin, a long-established Swiss watchmaking house, professes its philosophy of "Classic with a Twist" (traditional yet playful). It is only natural that this Geneva-based watchmaker, which has been creating "playful" timepieces since the early days, would return to its "Twist" heritage.

 Honestly, with the current Vacheron Constantin range, you can't go wrong with any model. This is especially true if it's well-made, has a unique design, and is unlikely to be seen on someone else. However, if I had to choose just one, I would choose a model with a twist that is so typical of Vacheron Constantin. The ultimate example would be the "Traditional Complete Calendar Open Face."

 Long-established brands have what could be called "specialty" mechanisms. If you were to choose one from Vacheron Constantin, it would likely be a triple calendar with month, day, and date displays. While the company has the technology to create complicated watches, it has consistently preferred simple triple calendars because America, an important market for the company, disliked perpetual calendars, which were difficult to operate.

 Since the 1940s, the company has produced numerous triple calendar watches, but they were anything but ordinary. By adding a "twist," the company has made practical triple calendar watches stand out. Extremely exaggerated lugs and large, red-printed month and day displays are some of the distinctive features of Vacheron Constantin's triple calendar watches.

Traditional Complete Calendar Open Face

Vacheron Constantin "Traditional Complete Calendar Open Face"
This is an attempt to add a "twist" to Vacheron Constantin's signature triple calendar. Not only has the dial been replaced with sapphire crystal and the colors changed to monochrome, but the finer details have also been tweaked to create an exceptional sense of unity. This model is a perfect reflection of the insight of this long-established brand. The quality is exceptionally high. Automatic (Cal. 2460 QCL/2). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 40 hours. 18KPG (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.7mm). Water resistant to 30m. 5,632,000 yen (tax included).

 This tradition is still strongly handed down today. The Historiques Triple Calendar 1942 is a faithful reproduction of the triple calendar of yesteryear, while the Traditional Complete Calendar Open Face is a new interpretation. Both are orthodox in their construction, but the latter, in particular, emphasizes its uniqueness through its finish, rather than its design.

 While it is not uncommon to use a sapphire crystal dial to highlight an excellent movement, it seems that no one other than Vacheron Constantin has successfully grafted this technique onto a classic design. Of course, this is only possible with a well-finished movement, but it was inevitable that a company that has pursued a sense of playfulness would end up with a dial that is "showy."

 The Caliber 2450 series that powers this watch is a masterpiece that has been featured many times in this magazine. Although the power reserve is somewhat short, the unidirectional automatic winding mechanism winds well even when working at a desk, and the rotor is extremely quiet. The hand setting feels precise in both forward and reverse directions, and the deep chamfering, shallow Côtes de Genève, and uniformly striated finish give it the look of a truly high-end watch.

 However, simply replacing the dial with sapphire crystal would not have achieved such a unified look. The plate and bridges were given a NAC treatment to unify the overall color tone of the watch and improve the visibility of the calendar, and the moon phase display at 6 o'clock features a realistic design, a design familiar to Vacheron Constantin. Furthermore, part of the dial was replaced with frosted glass and a gold frame was added to the outside, emphasizing the dial's contrast. As with previous models, the skill with which a unique design is seamlessly integrated is nothing short of extraordinary.

 To be honest, this model is not cheap compared to the average triple calendar watch. However, a watch that combines exemplary finishes, attention to detail, and more than enough practicality with a distinctive uniqueness is, and always has been, extremely rare. If you're looking for a unique classic watch, this one is definitely worth considering.



Contact info: Vacheron Constantin Tel. 0120-63-1755


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