Great size, great details, great functionality! The appeal of the Tudor Black Bay Pro, as seen through its touch

Tudor pioneered the approach of adding a touch of playfulness to practical watches. Their subtle neutral colors, unique woven straps, and use of luminous material have had a major impact on other brands. The Black Bay Pro is a new model that is unique to this brand. Its 39mm case comfortably houses a GMT movement.

What Makes the Tudor Black Bay Pro So Appealing?

　Tudor also had a booth at the 2022 Watches & Wonders event. Five new models were announced. The one that really caught my eye was the Black Bay Pro. It's a basic model with a GMT function, but its small 39mm case, subtle retro design, and strategic price tag make it appealing. The only question is whether you can get one.

Luminous indexes mixed with ceramics

A key feature of this model is the use of a luminous material for the indexes, a mixture of ceramic and Luminova. Tudor describes them as "monobloc luminous ceramic applied hour markers." A similar material has already been used by H. Moser & Cie. for the hands of its masterpiece "Streamliner," but I never expected to see Tudor use it. Incidentally, it appears that the luminous material used by Tudor and H. Moser & Cie. comes from different sources.

Luminova is originally an aluminum-based material. Mixing it with ceramic makes it hard and easy to shape (apparently). Tudor cut the material into the shape of the indices and attached them to the dial. It's 0.3mm thick, which is too thick to be attached with glue, but Tudor says it has passed impact resistance tests. However, because glue alone isn't enough to secure the indices properly, Tudor explains that they attach them to holes in the dial with feet. The details are a "trade secret." The indices, which not only give the watch a retro look but also allow for generous application of luminous paint, are a major feature of this watch. The dial itself features Tudor's signature lacquer finish, which heavily roughens the base. Not only does it look retro, but it also resists clouding even when exposed to strong light sources, making it a finish that seems easy to imitate, but is actually quite difficult to replicate. The black dial, which combines uniqueness and practicality, is a key feature that best embodies the Tudor brand's signature style.

A 39mm case is possible

This model also has a relatively small case at 39mm. The case thickness is the same as previous Black Bay models (although I wasn't told the exact size). It's not particularly thin, but from my impression of wearing it on my wrist, the head alone didn't feel heavy. The balance with the light rivet-like bracelet was also good.

What I personally find most appealing is the thin numerals engraved on the bezel. Current GMT watches tend to use large, bold numerals for better legibility. In contrast, this model uses a thin font reminiscent of GMT watches from the 1960s. While a thicker font is preferable from a practical standpoint, I personally really like this "thin" font. The bold decision to use it shows the aggressive stance that Tudor is taking today.

The bracelet is still very well made

In addition to the triple lock buckle, this model also features a "T-fit" adjustment system that allows for self-sizing. This allows the wearer to adjust the length by 8mm in five increments without the need for tools. The small bar that secures the buckle is held in place by a ceramic ball. Ceramic balls, which are now being used by many manufacturers, are not only difficult to remove, but also do not wear out over time. Personally, this is a very appealing detail. However, the triple lock buckle is quite thick, so it may not be suitable for desk work. If you prefer not to take your watch off while working, it may be better to choose a strap rather than a bracelet version.

Kenissi's movement is impeccable

Tudor currently uses two large-diameter automatic movements manufactured by Kenissi. The basic movement is the 31.8mm Caliber 5600 series. Derivatives include the Caliber MT5612 and 5621, which have a baseplate size enlarged to 33.8mm. The Caliber MT5652 is a GMT version of the former. I've already covered the details in Chronos Japan and webChronos, so I won't go into them here, but this automatic features an excellent reverser inherited from Rolex. While the details haven't been disclosed, we can only speculate, but the basic design is likely the same as Rolex's 31 series. From what I can see, the material is different from the oxidized aluminum used in Rolex watches. Regardless, the reputation of Tudor automatics for their excellent winding is easy to justify when you consider the well-designed reverser. For an automatic watch enthusiast, this alone is enough to make a living.

Mediocre conclusion: Patience is required to acquire it.

This model is a little small and can be used roughly without any issues, making it perfect for those looking for a high-quality practical watch. That's why I've featured it, but it seems that this model is difficult to obtain. It will be on sale in Japan from April. I really like this model, so I hope that someone who likes it will get their hands on it. In any case, this model is full of the charm of Tudor today, and if you're a watch lover, it's definitely one that's worth waiting for.