The Vacheron Constantin models we would like to recommend for 2022 are for women!

One of the models that attracted attention at the 2022 Watches & Wonders was Vacheron Constantin's Historiques 222. However, my personal recommendation is the women's Patrimony. While this model may not stand out at first glance, the attention to detail clearly enhances its appeal as a watch. It's a fine piece that is typical of Vacheron's recent focus on exteriors.

The culmination of a long-established company with improved finishes

　From what I've seen, over the past five years or so, Vacheron Constantin has been focusing on "finishing." While their finishing was already excellent, they've now refined it even further. The chamfering of the skeletonized models now makes extensive use of corners, and the color of the dial has clearly improved. What's remarkable about the new women's Patrimony Automatic is the attention to detail that comes from a long-established brand.

Seamless gradient dial

　Following in the footsteps of other companies, Vacheron Constantin has also recently adopted the so-called gradient dial. The basic manufacturing process is the same for all manufacturers. First, the dial is plated or painted, and then lacquer is sprayed on the outer edge to emphasize the contrast. The new Patrimony also uses a gradient dial, but it looks clearly different from those of other brands. Looking closely, you'll see that there is no border where the lacquer is sprayed on the outer edge. This may seem obvious, but it's extremely rare among current Swiss models.

　As mentioned above, a gradient dial is made by first spraying a light color onto the base, and then spraying a darker color only on the outer edge. Therefore, no matter how skilled the craftsman, there will always be traces of lacquer on the outer edge. The new Patrimony, on the other hand, has absolutely no traces. When I asked Vice President Christian Selmoni how he made it, he said he was glad I'd asked.

　According to Vacheron Constantin, the Patrimony's gradient dials are sprayed with a "gradation machine" from the 1940s. The color is applied with a spray gun, and after it dries, the color is applied to the outer edge. The manufacturing method itself is the same as other companies, but this machine seems to be the secret to creating gradient dials without spray marks. Indeed, it should resemble the gradient dials of the past. This is purely my personal prediction, but I expect that gradient dials will be replaced with ones without spray marks in the future. Incidentally, Rolex and Patek Philippe have also adopted this finish for their dials this year.

Minute and second hands reach the index

　Other details are also intricate. The minute indexes on the outer periphery are either full cabochons or diamond-set (!). It's unclear how they achieved this, but it's a very fascinating detail. Incidentally, diamond-set minute indexes have already been used on the women's Patrimony Automatic (36.5mm in diameter, but with a different case design and details from this model). The finish itself is probably the same, but the faded color on the outer periphery of the dial makes the diamonds stand out even more.

　The hands have also been improved. The tips of the minute and second hands have been significantly curved to accommodate the domed dial, and they now reach the indices perfectly. These, too, likely come from the 36.5mm Patrimony Automatic, but they suit the new, more rounded case.

　There are two other points of attention to detail. Vacheron Constantin already offers two different cases in three sizes for the women's Patrimony with the Caliber 2450: 36mm, 36.5mm, and 40mm. While you might think that the case for this watch is a repurposed 36mm case, that's not the case. The new case is similar to the 36mm version, but it's a completely different size and thickness. The company designed the case from scratch.

　The coloring is also excellent. The blush pink dial model has brown logos and other details, giving the watch a softer look. In addition, the background of the date ring has been changed from white to pink, and a very thin border has been printed around the date window. The skill of emphasizing the date display with only a thin print, rather than inserting a separate part, is impressive. A thick border can look ostentatious, but by making it as thin as possible, it eliminates the obviousness that can often be found in printed borders.

Conclusion: This detail is likely a threat to other companies.

　Vacheron Constantin has packed this "inconspicuous" women's model with the utmost detail. If they continue to develop their models in this direction, the long-established Geneva brand will surely have an amazing competitive edge. The new women's Patrimony is a sign of Vacheron Constantin's future. Personally, I would be thrilled if they also had a men's model with these details.