Patek Philippe is a brand that receives constant attention every year. Its complex mechanisms that emphasize practicality and unique dial finishes have long been a benchmark for other brands. While the brand introduced a variety of models in 2022, the one that personally interested me the most was the basic "Calatrava Ref. 5226G."
The reason for its high quality is hidden in each and every detail
In the 1990s, Patek Philippe completed the Calatrava Ref. 5000 as a collection to appeal to younger generations. The combination of a rounded case, uncharacteristic of Patek Philippe, a black dial, and Arabic numerals was clearly different from previous Calatravas. Regardless of whether the company's intentions were successful, it is interesting to see this long-established Geneva manufacturer so quickly graft a modern touch onto a classic model.
This is an evolution of the Calatrava Ref. 5000. It features a strikingly high-quality exterior. The black gradient textured lacquered anthracite dial is set with gold applied indices. As the photo shows, the dial is quite rough, but it is still tastefully finished. The thick bezel is only possible because of the confidence the brand has in its polishing. Automatic movement (Cal. 26-330 SC). 30 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 45 hours. 18KWG (diameter 40mm, thickness 8.53mm).
The 2022 Calatrava Ref. 5226G is the latest in this modern Calatrava line. The dial is the same as the 1990s Ref. 5000, with a black base and Arabic numerals. However, not only has the base been heavily roughened to emphasize the contrast with the numerals, but the numerals themselves have also been changed from printed to applied. As Patek Philippe has shown with each passing year how adept it is at combining thinness with a three-dimensional effect, this model exudes a presence that belies its thinness.
What is noteworthy, though unassuming, are the applied indices. The thin indices are not embossed, but are applied white gold and fixed to the dial. It is difficult to make such thin indices stand on their own, but Patek Philippe must have accumulated know-how through this new technique they adopted for the perpetual calendar. This year, not only have they adopted them in basic models, but they have also taken on the even more difficult challenge of fixing them to a dial with a rough base.
The case's Clous de Paris pattern is achieved by separating the lugs from the middle case.
The case design is also interesting. The entire side of the case is engraved with a Clous de Paris pattern. While you might think that the outer periphery is engraved and the lugs are attached, in this model the case back and lugs are molded as a single piece. In other words, the middle case, which has the Clous de Paris pattern engraved on the outer periphery, is sandwiched between the case back and lugs, which are integrated with the lugs. The clearance between the middle case and the lugs is extremely small, making it look as if they were welded together. Philippe Barat, Patek Philippe's head of development, explains the intention behind this: "We wanted to properly create a Clous de Paris pattern on the side of the case."
As he emphasized, the case of the Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001 is polished so well that it's hard to believe it's a basic model. From what I can see, the level of mirror finish is the same as the Ref. 6119, but in this model, which emphasizes the flatness of the bezel and lugs, the small amount of distortion is even more noticeable. The highly refined case that is the appeal of current Patek Philippe watches can be fully appreciated in this model as well.
It is equipped with the automatic Cal. 26-330. This model, a refined version of the masterpiece 324 SC, continues to boast excellent winding efficiency and a great feel. What's more, it features a rotor that is so quiet it's hard to believe it's supported by ceramic bearings. While the power reserve is short, the excellent feel more than makes up for it.
The Calatrava Ref. 5226G features an elaborate exterior and an excellent movement as always. However, at approximately 4.5 million yen, it is incredibly expensive for a typical three-hand automatic. Therefore, if you are interested, I recommend seeing it in person (although the opportunity to do so will be very rare). If you think the finish is good, the price will be justified, but for those who are not put off, the price will undoubtedly be high. Incidentally, I am the former. This model has enough persuasive power to make you feel that you have no choice but to touch it.
