The J12 X-RAY showcases Chanel's true strength in watchmaking

They say that when you turn 20, everything becomes solid. Especially yourself. This saying also applies to the J12 X-RAY, which was launched in 2000 and has become one of the iconic watches of the early 21st century. We take a closer look at this special anniversary piece, released to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the J12, and its strength as a watchmaker, focusing on aspects such as sapphire molding technology and movement design.

Full transparency

　At 20, you have nothing to hide and are comfortable taking risks. You can finally be who you want to be. You can interact with the world with complete transparency, just like the beautiful J12 X-RAY.

　A delicate railroad minute track is stamped into the geometric central circle, and baguette-cut diamond hour indexes appear to float above the center of the watch. The central movement is housed in complete transparency, in empty space. The sapphire case and bezel, set with 46 baguette-cut diamonds, are connected to a bracelet also crafted from transparent sapphire, a first in the watch industry.

3.1

　In 2018, Chanel introduced the manual-winding Caliber 3 with the Boyfriend Skeleton, winning the Grand Prix de la Watchmaking de Genève (GPHG) in the women's watch category that same year. Designed by Chanel's Watchmaking Creation Studio and engineered by the Haute Horlogerie department, which also produces its own movements, the Caliber 3 caused a sensation by subverting one of the most important principles of the watchmaking industry. Here, style is not a technical imperative, nor does form follow function; rather, it's the other way around. Style comes first. Style dictates the shape of the movement, and technical considerations completely follow form and style. The Caliber 3 exhibits a rare convergence of aesthetics, technology, form, and function, making it impossible to tell where one ends and the other begins.

The manual-wound Caliber 3.1 that powers the J12 X-RAY follows the same philosophy. Its lineage is directly linked to the Caliber 3, and while the origins of the gear train and regulating mechanism are clear, its structure has been completely redesigned, with half of its 158 components being new. In line with the Creation Studio's intention to create a movement that appears suspended in mid-air, Caliber 3.1 not only achieves the lightness of its new circular form and layout, but also uses new materials to ensure transparency for its key components. The main plate (i.e., the case back where the movement is assembled) and the gear train bridge are both made of sapphire.

The Sapphire Challenge

　Synthetic sapphire is created by melting aluminum powder at high temperatures and letting it cool. It starts out as a carrot-shaped lump. The material must be thick but perfectly transparent, free of bubbles, cracks, and inclusions. It's notable that synthetic sapphire's hardness (9 on the Mohs scale) is second only to the world's hardest material, diamond (10). However, the material is incredibly lightweight, weighing just two-thirds as much as ceramic and one-quarter as much as white gold.

　The block is then machined using a diamond wheel to cut out the desired shape. It's a lengthy process, as only 0.05-0.06mm can be removed in each operation. The resulting high-precision geometric shape is then polished using a diamond suspension, an oil-based paste containing tiny diamond particles, to achieve the highest possible transparency.

　This operation requires great care, as some of the components are extremely thin, measuring just 0.5 to 1 mm. The subsequent assembly process by the watchmakers is just as challenging, requiring incredible patience and dexterity to assemble the watch, as not even a trace of oil or dust can be left behind, as this would compromise the perfect transparency and crystal-like purity. The process of setting the ruby ​​bearings onto the sapphire is particularly difficult and requires a new level of skill. For these reasons, it takes a week to assemble one movement.

The world's first sapphire case and bracelet

　The J12 X-RAY's case is crafted from a single block of sapphire that has been machined, polished, and drilled, and features an 18K white gold bezel set with 46 baguette-cut diamonds (approximately 5.46 carats). While other watchmakers have created watches with sapphire cases, either as a single piece or in multiple components, Chanel is the first to pair the case with a bracelet made entirely of sapphire.

　This beautifully supple three-row bracelet features 12 sapphire links, each secured by a polished 18K white gold pin, set with 34 baguette-cut diamonds (1.96 carats) and fitted with a folding clasp.

Lightweight and durable

　The transparent bracelet is light and flexible, yet durable enough to be scratched only by diamonds. It complements the transparent case perfectly. The crown, set with a brilliant-cut diamond, the floating baguette-cut diamond hour markers, and the minute track all converge at the heart of the watch, where its heart beats discreetly at 6 o'clock.

Definition of "icon"

The word "icon" is often overused in the watch industry, but when it comes to the J12, it's undeniable. The J12 X-RAY is something completely different, yet perfectly faithful to the original. Here, I would like to once again praise Jacques Helleu's genius in the original design of the J12. This timepiece has received more than the label of icon since its release. The J12 has the ability to completely change while remaining the same, establishing a hallmark of haute horlogerie in the process. In fact, that may seem like the very definition of authenticity.