Grand Seiko produces many models that depict seasonal scenes unique to Japan on the dial. This time, we will be taking a look at the "Elegance Collection SBGJ251," which focuses on the vernal equinox, and taking a closer look at its excellent fit and movement finish.
Text & Photographs by Shinichi Sato
Article published on September 9, 2022
A wonderful love triangle between people, seasons, and clocks
Automatic movement (Cal. 9S86). 37 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 39.5 mm, thickness 14.1 mm). Water resistant for everyday use. Price: 814,000 yen (tax included).
The Grand Seiko "Elegance Collection SBGJ251" that we will be reviewing this time is a model themed around the vernal equinox, one of the 24 solar terms models that began being developed in 2021. Not only does its appearance seem to deviate from the standard "Seiko style," but it is also part of a different series called the 24 solar terms model, separate from the classification by collection, making it difficult to understand its position.
After examining these points through impressions, we found that the design inherits the Grand Seiko lineage and that the concept is deeply connected to the brand philosophy.
So, what is the reason that users actively choose this model? I have noticed that this model and other 24 solar terms models have the appeal of connecting people, the seasons, and the watch.
The SBGJ251's positioning focuses on design
Today's Grand Seiko defines the "Seiko Style" as what a "brilliantly shining watch" should be, based on the design grammar established by the "44GS" released in 1967. This is not an abstract image, but is verbalized as nine specific points.
- 12 o'clock index is twice as wide as the other indexes
- Faceted index
・Mirror-polished glass edge top surface
・Mirror-polished case surface
・Half-recessed crown
・Flat dial
- Thick multi-faceted hour and minute hands
・Tangential sideline
- Reverse sloped bezel and case sides
The Evolution 9 SLGH005, nicknamed the "White Birch" model, is the ultimate expression of this style. However, the degree to which these elements are covered varies from model to model, and the Elegance Collection SBGJ251 is a model that is relatively unaffected by this.
The design of this model dates back even further than the 44GS, and has a strong resemblance to the original Grand Seiko, released in 60. Naturally, the 44GS is an evolved model from the original Grand Seiko, so there are many similarities, but the clear boundary between the round case and lugs, and the crown that is not recessed into the case, are notable similarities between the original Grand Seiko and the SBGJ251, and are not found on the 44GS.
The Significance of the Grand Seiko "Twenty-Four Solar Terms Model"
This model is one of the "24 Solar Terms" models launched in 2021. The 24 solar terms, which are indicated by the winter solstice, the minor heat, and the cold dew, are indicators of the change of seasons and are now sometimes heard in weather forecasts. The question of why Grand Seiko created such a series, which unnecessarily increases the number of pages in the catalog, has a clear answer.
Grand Seiko's current brand philosophy is "THE NATURE OF TIME," which represents two uniquely Japanese spiritualities: the sensibility inspired by the natural changing of the seasons, and the artisan's pursuit of the essence of time. This philosophy's "natural changing of the seasons" has a strong affinity with the 24 solar terms on which they are based. For this reason, the 24 solar terms models, including this one, can be said to be a lineup that strongly reflects the brand philosophy, and ultimately the current Grand Seiko.
This model is based on the theme of the vernal equinox, which is the time when the length of day and night are roughly equal among the 3 solar terms. The vernal equinox in 2022 falls on March 21st, which coincides with the cherry blossom season in Kyoto and the Tokyo area, and this impression was made during this period.
This model features green leaves sprouting around the time of the spring equinox on the dial, with mountain cherry blossoms peeking through them on the GMT hand. This dial expression embodies Grand Seiko's latest endeavors. The base, which has a random pattern, is plated and then lacquered, creating a smooth, deep green color while maintaining an exquisite balance that allows the base to show through. This coating looks good indoors, but its unique quality is that it becomes even more beautiful when exposed to sunlight. The varying transparency of the light reflected on the base creates depth, creating the nuances of a sumi-e painting.
