Founded in 2005, CVSTOS was originally an outsider brand that emphasized technology and new materials. The case structure, which provided 100m water resistance despite being tonneau-shaped, was certainly highly technical. However, CVSTOS has since shifted its focus to lifestyle, while retaining its technological expertise. CVSTOS has acquired a unique personality through its challenges. We would like to unravel this bold journey through its latest creations.
The Challenge Jetliner evokes the sky. The small second hand at 6 o'clock is modeled after a large turbine. The case is made of lightweight grade 5 titanium. The mirror-finished indexes are clear.
Typical of Stoss. Automatic (Cal. CVS410). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Ti (53.7mm x 41mm). Water resistant to 100m. 1,298,000 yen (tax included).
(Right) Challenge Chrono III-S
One of the trilogy that supports the current CVSTOS is the Challenge Chrono, which is inspired by land. Despite being a chronograph with a tonneau case, it is water resistant to 100m. The case is made entirely of grade 5 titanium.
However, it is comfortable to wear. Automatic (Cal. CVS577). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Ti (53.7mm x 44mm). Water resistant to 100m. 253 million yen (tax included).
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yuto Hosoda (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]
CVSTOS as a unique brand
The yacht-shaped Challenge Sealiner is a huge hit. The contrast between the vibrant blue and 18KRG gold is one of a kind. A sapphire crystal is embedded in the side of the case, but the water resistance is the same as other models. Automatic (Cal. CVS410). 31 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel + sky blue PVD x 18KRG (53.7mm x 41mm). Water resistant to 100m. Priced at 2,255,000 yen (tax included).
CVSTOS has now separated from the Franck Muller Group and is now an independent brand. However, when it was first established in 2005, the company's presence was overshadowed by the Master of Complications and did not attract much attention. One of the co-founders is the eldest son of Vartan Sirmakes, CEO of the Franck Muller Group, and with the same tonneau case as Franck Muller, it was only natural that the old CVSTOS would be seen as a modernized Franck Muller.
However, co-founder Sassoon Sirmakes and chief designer Antonio Terranova were not influenced by Franck Muller. Although Sirmakes has publicly stated that he was influenced by his famous father, he has consistently tried to distance himself from the "Masters." In fact, CVSTOS, which once had a workshop within Watchland, later moved its workshop and showroom to Geneva and began to emphasize that it was a separate brand.
In 16, the company parted ways with WPHH, the trade fair run by the Franck Muller Group, and exhibited at Baselworld. Currently, the Franck Muller Group has no capital investment in the main CVSTOS factory, and the cases are not manufactured by Watchland.
Designer Antonio Terranova has also spent the majority of his career unrelated to Franck Muller. After graduating, he majored in micro-engineering and joined Prodor, a case manufacturer under the Piaget umbrella, where he designed a variety of watches for major manufacturers. He left the company and moved to TAG Heuer, where he gained expertise in new materials. After leaving, he worked as a freelance watch consultant, and in 03 he met Sassoon Sirmakes and began working on his personal projects. The collaboration between the Sirmakes family, a case manufacturer, and a designer with a background in micro-engineering has given CVSTOS a unique personality.
Waterproof tonneau case for use near water
Founded in February 2005, CVSTOS has gone through a fair amount of trial and error, to put it mildly. The company has consistently preferred to be an "outsider," but this has led to a proliferation of collections. While unique models have excited enthusiasts who appreciate novelty watches, it's hard to say they have any continuity.
Terranova speaks frankly. "The changes have been happening since 2010." CVSTOS consolidated its main lineup into three models: Challenge Chrono, Challenge Sealiner, and Challenge Jetliner, promoting a lifestyle of land, sea, and air. It shifted from a luxury sports watch that emphasized technical features to a brand that is more situation-oriented. CVSTOS, which once emphasized elaborate cases, has shed its skin.
What all three collections have in common is that they are water resistant to 100m despite being tonneau cases. In theory, it is difficult to make a barrel-shaped tonneau case airtight. However, the Cvstos collection, from the very first Challenge collection onwards, has had water resistance suitable for use near water, despite being tonneau cases.
Terranova says, "Water resistance is one of the technologies embodied in CVSTOS, and it is part of our modernity. I wanted CVSTOS to be a watch that can be used every day, not a watch to put in a safe." The key to this is the sealing technology of the crystal.
If you look at each of the CVSTOS collections, you will notice that all of them have four sharp corners on the crystal. While sharp corners may look better, they make it harder to maintain airtightness, and therefore significantly reduce water resistance. This is why many tonneau and square cases have slightly rounded corners on the crystal.
"CVSTOS watches have sharp edges on the crystal. In theory, it is difficult to achieve high water resistance, but we have achieved 100m water resistance. The important thing is the sealing and additional technology. This know-how is kept secret, and there are only two engineers in the company who can fix the crystal. We have no intention of patenting it, because if we did, it could be copied."
