We spoke with Uwe Arendt, CEO of Nomos, one of Glashütte's largest brands, about the growing importance of "Made in Glashütte"

As of February 2022, "Made in Glashütte" will become a legally protected designation of origin, a significant improvement that will ensure that watches from the "cradle of German watchmaking" are more effectively protected.

We spoke with Uwe Arendt, CEO of NOMOS, the award-winning watch brand from Glashütte, Germany. What does the CEO of one of Glashütte's largest watch brands think about the importance of this protection system? We also asked him about the latest news from NOMOS and what watch enthusiasts can expect in 2022.

What benefits does a protected designation of origin offer to buyers?

　Thanks to the region's strict Protected Designation of Origin system for industrial products, customers can be sure that when they see the name "Glashütte" they are guaranteed the special quality that is associated with Glashütte. Standards are now stricter than ever, and penalties for non-compliance are very severe.

What does the Protected Designation of Origin mean for the entire Glashütte manufacturing site?

　It is recognition and prestige for what these people have been building for 175 years, and it means protection for investments and, above all, the art of watchmaking in Glashütte, as well as securing jobs for tomorrow and beyond.

You were born in Glashütte. What was the first watch you ever owned?

　It wasn't a Glashütte watch, but an IWC Ingenieur. I bought it in 1992 while I was working as an engineer for IWC in Schaffhausen, Switzerland.

What made you choose a career in the watch industry?

　After the fall of the Berlin Wall, things didn't restart in Glashütte with the push of a button; it took time. In the early '90s, no one could have predicted what would happen here and how successful the watch industry would become. At the time, good watches were primarily made in Switzerland, and I wanted to study and gain experience in Switzerland. I was 23 years old at the time.

You have also served as deputy mayor of Glashütte. Running a watch company must be quite difficult, right?

　NOMOS and all the watches we make here benefit from Glashütte's rich history and generations of traditional craftsmanship, dating back to its earliest days. We want to give something back to this place. And I'm not the only one who thinks so. There are three of us on the board of directors and about 200 employees. NOMOS is like a well-oiled machine.

If there was one thing Switzerland could learn from Germany, what would it be?

　The Swiss make great watches, so I don't have any advice for them specifically. My Swiss friends don't need any advice either. In the past, Swiss people sent their children to watchmaking schools in Glashütte, and vice versa. We ourselves have learned a lot from the Swiss. There are many specialized watchmakers in Switzerland, but Glashütte has also established its own unique expertise.

What are the main differences between Swiss and German watchmaking?

　While Swiss-made watches span a wide range of price points and categories, from affordable to luxury, Glashütte, a much smaller region, has traditionally specialized in producing the highest quality watches. There's another small but important difference: Switzerland is a high-wage country. Glashütte, Germany, allows for more affordable production. I can confidently say that the price-performance ratio that NOMOS offers doesn't exist in Switzerland. It doesn't exist.

What are the most popular models in the NOMOS collection?

　For the past 30 years, it's the Tangente. It's been our best-seller.

What is your favorite NOMOS model?

　Currently, it's the Tangente Neomatik Platinum Grey. It's very elegant, slightly masculine, and substantial. The dial is platinum-plated with a small gold "neomatik" inscription. This stands for "New Automatic," a hallmark of our thin, high-performance automatic watches. This model with this movement is a delight to me.

Nomos was started in 1990 by three people in a rented apartment in town. How big is the company now?

　With around 200 employees at three locations in Glashütte, as well as locations in Berlin, New York, Como (Italy), Shanghai, and Hong Kong, NOMOS boasts one of the largest production volumes of any watch brand founded in Glashütte.

How is NOMOS responding to current supply chain challenges and increased demand?

　We try to do everything ourselves that we can do ourselves. But of course, a watch wouldn't be complete without a second hand. And because of the impact of COVID-19, we controlled production in Glashütte, just like our competitors around the world, and we weren't able to produce the usual number of watches. At the same time, we're also very aware of the fact that many people now feel a desire to invest in valuable pieces that will be passed down for generations. As a result, it's taking longer for most models to be delivered.

The NOMOS design studio, Berlinerbrau, is located in Berlin, about 100 miles from Glashütte. Does the studio also work for other brands?

　No, Berlinerbräu is a branch office and a division of Nomos, so the Berlin office is solely responsible for Nomos matters.

When it comes to developing new watches, who takes the lead? The designer or the watchmaker?

　Following the Bauhaus tradition, all departments work hand in hand as equals, but the go-ahead for new products comes from product management, which works in conjunction with sales, and often from design engineers and designers who work in conjunction with sales on new products.

What do you think constitutes "great design"?

　Two things in particular resonated with me. One is the design, which is classic yet modern. It also supports sustainability; timeless design helps prevent items from being thrown away. Another sign of good design is that it doesn't overwhelm. Good design isn't obtrusive, doesn't want to stand out, doesn't want too much. It supports function and doesn't overshadow its owner. In my experience, this is perhaps the greatest challenge in design. I'd like to reiterate the virtues of the Tangente.

NOMOS has received over 160 design and quality awards. What other awards would you like to see NOMOS win?

　Mechanical watches like ours, made in-house in Glashütte, are inherently sustainable thanks to their repairability and timeless design, and NOMOS watches in particular, so we'd be happy to receive an award for "Most Sustainable Gadget."

What is your favorite complication?

　The new date mechanism in NOMOS' new slim automatic watches is a completely new display that runs around the perimeter of the dial, giving you a full month in full view. And I think it's beautiful.

Is there anything else about NOMOS that people don't already know?

　I think what many people don't know is that all 11 of our current movements are made in-house. 100% of our movements are made by NOMOS. This is rare even in the luxury watch industry, and at first no one believed it. Some people already know this, but I want everyone to know! Thank you for your great question.

Can luxury and accessibility coexist?

　Of course. The challenge is defining luxury. Luxury has many different meanings. For some, luxury means something extravagant, lavish with precious stones, or something way beyond the reach of the average person. But for me, luxury means something made with love, patience, and expert craftsmanship, something that will last a lifetime. These things are becoming rarer in the world, and they're becoming more and more special. In that sense, NOMOS watches can be considered luxury. Of course, NOMOS watches are priced accordingly, but I believe they are still within the reach of those who appreciate beautiful timepieces. Sooner or later, many people will be able to afford a NOMOS watch.

Nomos says it produces 95% of its watches in-house, but what about the remaining 5%?

　For example, we do not produce our own rubies, and our balance springs are made according to our calculations by a manufacturer in the Black Forest region of Germany.

Looking back at your career, is there anything you wish you had done differently or anything you learned that was significant?

　Would we have done things differently? That's a tough question. Maybe we had a flagship store in Zurich. Switzerland has great watches, so maybe we were a little overconfident. But maybe we should have pushed for internationalization a little earlier. Years ago, we developed the mantle clock and the tourbillon, which were exciting ideas, but they were unnecessary for NOMOS. In retrospect, we should have made more watches. But other than that, mistakes always teach us lessons, and as long as they're not threatening us, we can learn from them.

How important is the American market to NOMOS?

　After Germany, America is our biggest market. Many people in America are very accepting of Glashütte watches, and many of them are knowledgeable about fine watches. And there is a strong passion for our craftsmanship. Even excluding that, America is a big market.

Nomos has been collaborating with Doctors Without Borders since 2012. What prompted you to choose this NGO?

　It was the other way around: Doctors Without Borders chose NOMOS, and of course we were happy to accept. Doctors Without Borders has been one of the most important leaders in humanitarian work for over 50 years. They have a Nobel Prize, are known worldwide, and have an incredible reputation, but they are also a demanding organization when it comes to collaborations like ours. Of course, we share a common desire to make the world a little better, to help people live in better times.

What's next in store for 2022?

　I hope that the situation will improve globally this year. The war in Ukraine will end and we will be free from the coronavirus. This is on a grand scale. In our small watch factory, I am looking forward to the release of new products, including special limited edition models. Because when I finish a new watch and bring it to market, the day when I can see the first reactions from retailers, press, and customers is very special to me.