The story behind the creation of the Zenith x Kari Voutilainen x Phillips Caliber 135 Observatoire, which sold out immediately

The auction house Phillips announced the Caliber 135 Observatoire, a watch equipped with Zenith's 1950s chronometer movement, the Caliber 135-O, and it quickly sold out. The project, which sparked buzz in the industry upon its announcement in early June 2022, was the brainchild of Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Gobbi of the Philips Watch Division, and the restoration and decoration of the historic movement was undertaken by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. This article documents the creation of this model.

A model equipped with the Zenith Caliber 135-O, conceived by Philips and reborn with the finishing touches of Kari Voutilainen.

　The movement that won the most awards during Zenith's "golden age of chronometer competitions" has been reintroduced to the market. This project was initiated with the idea and cooperation of Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Gobbi of the Philips Watch Division. Philips, in collaboration with Bacs & Russo, invited independent Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen to restore and decorate the movement. The movement in question is the Caliber 135-O chronometer movement, made in the 1950s. The result is the "Caliber 135 Observatoire," of which only 10 exist worldwide. These movements are sold exclusively by Philips in collaboration with Bacs & Russo. Zenith CEO Julien Tornare said: "I have known Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Gobbi for many years and we have spoken about Zenith's heritage and what treasures remain to be unearthed. They specifically asked me about the Caliber 135. So we came up with the idea of ​​collaborating with Phillips to create a special series dedicated to this movement. The beauty of having a heritage as rich as Zenith's is that it can be shared."

Equipped with the ultimate observatory chronometer, the Caliber 135-O

　Since its founding in 1865, Zenith has won over 230 chronometry awards. The movement that set the historic record is the Caliber 135-O.

　Developed under the direction of Swiss watchmaker Efrem Jobim, the Caliber 135-O was produced from 1949 to 1962. Two versions were produced: one for commercial use and one for chronometer competitions at the Neuchâtel, Geneva, Teddington, and Besançon observatories. The latter, developed specifically for the competitions, were designated the "O" version. These "O" versions were never commercialized, nor were they ever housed in wristwatch or pocket watch cases. They were created specifically to win chronometer competitions. They consistently demonstrated high performance in rigorous operational tests, including temperature changes, shocks, and six different positions.

　The ten movements used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire were produced during Zenith's "winning streak" from 1950 to 1954 and were adjusted by Zenith watchmakers Charles Fleck and René Gigax.

　Entrusted with the restoration and finishing of these historic movements, Kari Voutilainen transformed these ten Caliber 135-O movements into luxury watches, applying chamfering and finishing touches. "These movements were created for chronometer competitions, not for wear or aesthetic appeal," says Alexandre Gobbi. "So, if we were to create a watch using this legendary movement, it was important to find someone who could take it to the next level. It quickly became clear that Kari Voutilainen was the right choice. He is a true master." Aurel Bacs adds, "It would be fantastic to create a special limited edition model using the Caliber 135. Julien and Romain (Marietta, Zenith's Head of Product & Heritage) came back and said, 'You'll be amazed.' But who would have imagined that it would be equipped with a genuine, observatory-certified, Formula 1-winning movement? That's how it all began."

Elevating a rugged chronometer movement into a luxury watch

The Calibre 135 Observatoire is inspired by the original production models powered by the Calibre 135. Its 38mm platinum round case features smoothly tapered lugs and a crown adorned with Zenith's modern star logo. Beneath the sapphire crystal is a domed black dial crafted from sterling silver by Kari Voutilainen's dial factory, Comblemien, and featuring guilloched fish-scale engraving. The triangular hour markers and polished applied dot markers are rhodium-plated German silver, paired with contrasting solid gold hands, combining vintage elegance with contemporary flair. The large seconds dial at 6 o'clock features the movement's serial number, ensuring each watch is unique.

　The movement is finished by Kari Voutilainen and his team of watchmakers in Neuchâtel. The dial bears the word "Neuchâtel" at 6 o'clock, a reference to the location of the Neuchâtel Observatory where the Caliber 135-O won a gold medal at the Neuchâtel Observatory Chronometer Competition in 1903.

The Caliber 135-O, which powers the Caliber 135 Observatoire, can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back. The hand-chamfered gold-colored bridges, the chamfered screw holes, the circular graining of the mainplate, and the spiral brushed finish on the ratchet and crown wheels are all visible. These finishes were carried out by watchmakers specializing in restoration. Kari Voutilainen says, "The top watchmakers of the time worked on the Caliber 135-O. Their exceptional skills enabled them to achieve a precision that has remained intact even after nearly 70 years. Our mission was to ensure that its performance was not compromised."　

The Calibre 135 Observatoire is available from Philips for 132,900 Swiss francs and is already sold out.