The Next Ultimate Micro Maison: The Passion of Acrivia (Part 2)

Since 2017, the micro-maison Akrivia has been attracting the attention of discerning watch enthusiasts. Since its founding, the brand has undergone repeated trial and error, but it quickly established its reputation with its new 18 model. The Recep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain, named after the founder, has completely redefined the micro-maison concept with its outstanding finish and high performance.

Case and parts production guided by a master craftsman

Akrivia underwent a major transformation with the release of the AK 06 in 2017, and in the same year moved its headquarters and workshop to Geneva's old town. Renowned case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann, known as JPH, joined the company. Fascinated by Hagmann's cases, Rexhepi took over the entire workshop after he retired. Hagmann's expertise is set to further raise the quality of Akrivia.

　With the release of the AK 06 in 2017, Akrivia established itself as a watch manufacturer. In 19, renowned case maker Jean-Pierre Hagman joined the company with his entire workshop, and the company began to produce cases and some parts in-house. Hagman is a leading supplier of complicated watch cases to renowned watchmakers. Without him, neither the Star Caliber nor the Tonneau Curvex would have been possible. Eager to have this legend design the cases, Recep Rexhepi persuaded the retired Hagman to join the company, and was successful in inviting him. "However, it was quite difficult," said Rexhepi.

Hagman creates cases using the classic method, even shaping the shape of the case with a file.

Hagman's favorite machine is the famous turret lathe, the Schaublin 102. It's amazing how he can cut round rings into the shape of bezels and middle cases using just this machine and pliers.

The case under construction. Naturally, the latest machine tools were not used for the processing.

On the bench in the foreground, they were probably prototyping the case for the RRCC II. They were shaping a brass block into the shape of the case using only a file (!).

　Having started his career as a jeweler, Hagman's case making follows a completely traditional method. He turns a round ring made of precious metal on a lathe, files it, and solders the lugs to create a case. It's clear when you see Hagman's work as he cuts the rings why lugs on luxury watch cases used to be added later. He explains:

"I was happy to be invited by Rexhepi. I felt that classical techniques needed to be passed on to the future. Case making, which originated from the jewelry I learned, is imbued with creativity and harmony. However, with the spread of machining in the 1980s, this technique was lost. Stylists, not craftsmen, began to decide on the case design. As a result, the artists disappeared from case making."

　It takes at least one to two weeks to complete one case, including finishing, so the amount of effort required is comparable to that of luxury watches from the past.

　With the addition of Hagman's workshop, Akrivia is now able to produce not only cases but also prototypes in-house. While many of the general components are supplied by suppliers, final finishing touches such as gears are done in-house. Additionally, in the research and development (R&D) department at the back of the workshop, three designers design watches. While this may seem like an excessive amount considering the annual production volume of 35 to 40 watches, this production system is Akrivia's strength.

Hand-finishing is the pride of Micro Maison

A major factor in Akrivia's fame is the hand-finishing seen on models such as the "AK 06" and "RRCC I." Certainly, the deep chamfering and black polishing are of a quality far superior to that of many independent watchmakers. However, what is more important to understand about Akrivia is that one watchmaker is involved in the entire process from A to Z. A process that was once a given at luxury manufacturers has been left to the emerging micro-maison.

　When I spoke with Daniel Roth some time ago, he told me how the way luxury watches are made has changed. "In the past, at luxury watch manufacturers, one watchmaker was responsible for everything from finishing the movement to the final casing. It was literally one watchmaker making one watch. Now, on the other hand, we have a complete division of labor." However, as a result of this division of labor, watchmakers have succeeded in increasing productivity, allowing each specialist to focus on a single skill. It's true that without this system of division of labor, the world of luxury watches wouldn't be what it is today. That said, a watchmaker who wants to do everything on their own will want to be involved in the making of a watch from start to finish. This explains why Daniel Roth, who once retired, once again became an independent watchmaker.

Akrivia makes extensive use of steel parts that have been polished black. The parts are filed down to a 1-micron level, then placed on a tin plate coated with diamond paste, and polished to a perfect mirror finish.

The piece is held up to the light to check for any distortion on the surface, and then polished again.

　However, I had assumed that this style of watchmaking had disappeared, except for independent watchmakers working alone, until I visited Akrivia's workshop.

　Six watchmakers, including Rexhep Rexhepi, currently work at Akrivia's workshop in Geneva's old town. By watch industry standards, an annual production of 35 to 40 watches from six watchmakers is too low. However, seeing the workshop makes sense. At Akrivia, with the exception of finishing the case and some of the gears, one watchmaker handles everything from finishing to assembly, adjustments, and casing. This is exactly what Roth described as the "old-fashioned luxury watch makers."

　Rexhepi says, "In our workshop, one watchmaker is responsible for everything from finishing the parts to completing the watch. Assembly is only a part of the process. Our watches take one to two months just to finish."

　The finishing techniques themselves are essentially the same as in other high-end watchmaking workshops, but it is rare to see the watchmakers, who work silently, getting up from their seats every now and then to add finishing touches to the components.

"When I founded the company in 2012, I was alone, which meant I could do a lot of different things. But around 2018, the number of orders started to increase too much. I could only make one or two watches a year at most. So, although we hired more watchmakers, I believe we need to find a balance."

　During the interview, I noticed a watchmaker moving his fingers over a silver plate. He applied diamond paste to a tin plate and slowly polished a steel part. After polishing, he checked the mirror finish with a magnifying glass, then placed the part on the tin plate again and gently slid it over. I have seen many workshops, but it is rare to find someone as skilled as him. What's more, he is not specialized in finishing parts. This must mean that he is an extremely talented watchmaker.

"Before joining Akrivia, I worked on complicated watches at Hublot, as well as at Patek Philippe and Franck Muller. Why did I join Akrivia? Because I liked the way one watchmaker was responsible for everything from finishing to assembly."

　As an aside, Rexhepi says that when applying black polish, it works best if you spit on the polishing powder.

This is the blank needle that was delivered. At Acrivia, it is common for them to be remade into needles.

After blue-burnishing, the needle is polished to a hakama finish. It is not easy to heat it with a burner and ensure that the color is evenly distributed.

　In one corner of the workshop, Rexhepi's younger brother, Cevde Rexhepi, was finishing the hands. Like his brother, he was an apprentice at Patek Philippe, but he joined Akrivia in 16 and is now fully demonstrating his talents. He forms the blank hands into a three-dimensional shape with a file, polishes them to a mirror finish, and then heats them with a lamp to apply color. At Akrivia, finishing the hands as well as the movements is the job of the watchmakers.

　Additionally, Akrivia has extremely strict standards for handcrafting. Take, for example, the gears used in the gear train. Just one gear requires 20 internal "indentations." This is a difficult task even for a craftsman specializing in finishing, but it is the watchmakers whose primary job is assembling the watches who are required to do this. Considering that only those skilled not only as watchmakers but also in finishing can work at Akrivia, it is no surprise that the company's watchmakers boast such illustrious backgrounds.

　However, it is precisely because of Rexhepi that the old-fashioned methods have been firmly established. Despite being the company's CEO, Rexhepi has his own desk in the workshop, where he leads the other watchmakers in polishing, adjusting, and assembling parts. Moreover, he questions existing methods and continues to make new improvements, such as the Geneva finishing and chamfering techniques introduced on the previous page.

"In the watch industry, they say it's good to use dwarf timber for beveling, but that's a technique for museums. We prefer to use elderberry and boxwood. Of course, we sometimes use dwarf timber, but after trying it out, we've found that elderberry and other woods work better. Personally, I'd like to change the way circular graining is done. It's traditional, but I think there are other ways." And he continues to share what he's learned with his watchmakers and staff. Indeed, anyone who works in this workshop can learn all about watchmaking, at the highest level.

"I always want to make good things. That's why I've continued to experiment with finishing. When I started the Geneva finishing in 2012, I was satisfied with how well it turned out. However, compared to today's standards, there are many areas that are lacking. Since then, I've learned a lot and it's gotten a lot better. Currently, we outsource the polishing of the cases and many of the parts, but I would like to bring these into in-house production as well. I'm the type of person who is never satisfied."

　However, it is difficult to find watchmakers, and it is hard to find people who can also do finishing work, even among watchmakers around the world. Considering productivity, wouldn't it be wiser to separate finishing and assembly, as other manufacturers do? When I asked Rexhepi about this, he replied that they would continue to do so.

The bridge supporting the fourth wheel of the AK 06 is made of steel. The watchmakers at Akrivia have given this three-dimensional part a perfect black polish. The finish is truly impressive.

The bridge supporting the AK 06 barrel. Its shallow Geneva finish, deep chamfering, and three-dimensional hole jewels are characteristic of Akrivia. While Akrivia does almost all of the finishing in-house, it outsources the plating.

"My dream watchmaker is FP Journe. If I didn't do what he did, I would want to give up making watches. He not only passed on innovation, but he still sits at his workbench, making watches and exploring the world of watches. That's what I want to do, because we're all egoists."

　Akrivia aims to create timepieces that are, in the 21st century, classic in their truest sense. Anyone seeking the romance of timepieces should definitely try their hand at one of their watches. If you're a watch lover, you'll undoubtedly be able to vividly feel the "egoism"—or in other words, the soul—that's embodied in each of their creations.