Bvlgari "Octo Finissimo Ultra" Plus Ultra Go further!

Since the Octo Finissimo in 2014, Bvlgari has been breaking records for thin watches one after another. The eighth model, the Octo Finissimo Ultra, represents transcendence. For Octo, the number "8" represents the number of years since its launch, this eighth model, completed on the occasion of the brand's eighth anniversary, holds great significance. By incorporating eight patents, this manual-winding regulator achieves the thinnest case thickness of any mechanical wristwatch, at just 1.8mm.

Bulgari created a historic masterpiece in just eight years

　Since releasing the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo model in 2014, Bvlgari has become surprisingly serious about thin watches. This dedication to thinness was made possible by Bvlgari's inheritance of the technical expertise of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth's workshops. In addition to the outstanding technical capabilities of "musical instruments" and tourbillons, the new direction of thinness must have been a revelation for them.

　All of these watches were thinner than ever before, while also being practical enough for everyday wear. Bvlgari patiently waited for the Finissimo to gain public acclaim, and was rewarded with numerous awards and rave reviews from watch enthusiasts. Those who read Issue 100 of this magazine will no doubt recall that the world's most renowned watch enthusiasts selected the Finissimo as one of the watches that should be preserved for the future.

　The eighth of these is the new "Octo Finissimo Ultra." Bulgari's intention is clear when they name this ultra-thin mechanical watch with a regulator simply "Ultra." As the name "Transcendent" symbolizes, this model's case is just 1.8mm thick, and the bracelet is just 1.5mm. The release states, "No matter what happens in the future, there is no doubt that this watch will leave its mark in the history of modern Haute Horlogerie." This is the culmination, so to speak, of Bulgari's pursuit of thinness since 2014.

　Its structure can also be said to be the perfected form of the Finissimo. The movement layout, with an expanded baseplate and various components arranged on a single layer, is common to existing Finissimos. However, in order to make it "Ultra", Bulgari further revamped the design. The symbol of this is the balance wheel at 7 o'clock. Bulgari did away with the regulator that was located above the balance wheel, opting instead for a free-sprung balance that adjusts the regulator with a weight embedded in the balance wheel. In theory, even if a thin, low-inertia balance wheel is made free-sprung, it is unlikely to improve accuracy. However, Bulgari chose to change the regulator solely for the sake of thinness.

　The adoption of a regulator with the hour and minute hands on separate small dials is, of course, not just for looks. The reason for separating the hour and minute hands is to distribute the mechanism where the cannon pinion and hour wheel overlap, thereby achieving a slimmer design. As far as I know, this is probably the first time that this layout has been adopted for the sake of slimness.

　Bvlgari explains that by integrating the baseplate and case back and using tungsten carbide, the Ultra is, in theory, sturdy enough to withstand everyday use. However, the aim of this model is different from previous Finissimo watches, which have emphasized both thinness and practicality. For example, winding and hand setting are performed by a rotating disc rather than a crown. As a result, the water resistance is limited to 10 meters. Bvlgari does not approve of this type of design, but they have boldly changed their thinking in order to surpass the thinness they have set themselves.

　Exceptionally among the current Bvlgari collection, this piece is purely concept-focused. This is indicated by the QR code engraved on the ratchet wheel. When the QR code is scanned with a digital device, the individual information and details of the Finissimo are displayed along with the NFT digital art. QR code individual authentication, which has recently been adopted by some manufacturers, is deliberately incorporated into the design, making it unique to a concept model.

　Since the Lehman Shock, we at Chronos Japan have distanced ourselves as much as possible from conceptual models. Nevertheless, we chose to feature the Octo Finissimo Ultra this time because we believe that no thinner mechanical watch will ever appear in the future. The journey of the Octo Finissimo, which began in 14, is, if we may exaggerate, a conclusion in the saga of the mechanical wristwatch renaissance that began in the 1990s.