Why leave bracelet adjustments to a watch shop? When is it okay to adjust it yourself?

2022.06.24

Q: Why is it better to have a watch shop adjust your bracelet?

It is often said that you should not adjust bracelet links yourself, but leave it to a watch shop or manufacturer. It may seem like it would be easy to remove them by tapping the pins or turning the screws, but why is it said that amateurs should not touch it?

Masayuki Hirota

Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Article published on June 2022, 6


A: Because there is a high possibility of damaging the bracelet.

 Adjusting the length of a bracelet is something watch enthusiasts are interested in. However, unless you have the latest models, it's best to avoid adjusting it yourself. While it's easy to change the length of the links with the proper tools, an amateur will likely damage the bracelet. Screw-set bracelets are the most difficult to adjust. While it may seem like an easy adjustment, reputable manufacturers will apply a screw-set adhesive to the bracelet to prevent it from coming loose. This means that even an average person will have a hard time removing it.

Screw-down bracelet

In the case of screw-fastened bracelets, screw locking agents are often used on the screws, making them more difficult to remove than they appear. If an inexperienced person tries to turn them too hard, they may strip the threads.

 Therefore, if possible, take your watch to a watch shop not only to replace the bracelet but also to adjust the length. When doing so, don't try to get it done cheaply, but if possible, choose a shop with a watchmaker or someone experienced in adjusting bracelets. It is not uncommon for people to end up with scratches on their watch in an attempt to keep the cost of replacement or adjustment low. Ceramic bracelets in particular can easily chip if the screwdriver is not used properly. Always leave it to a specialist shop or the manufacturer.


Some are designed so that even amateurs can adjust them.

Smartlink Bracelet

Cartier's "Smart Link" system, used in the Santos de Cartier and Pasha de Cartier, allows for easy link adjustment by pressing a button built into the link to release the pin. Similar features are also used in some IWC models and A. Lange & Söhne's Odysseus.

 By the way, there are some manufacturers that design bracelets so that the links can be easily adjusted. For example, Cartier and IWC. By pressing the pins with the special tool provided, you can easily change the length of the bracelet. However, there are still only a limited number of manufacturers that can offer such elaborate bracelets.


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