Watch brands and the watches they create all have roots and reflect certain ideas. This time, we will introduce four brands with a "sky" theme and explain their representative models.
Text by Shinichi Sato
Article published on June 2022, 7
Introducing four brands with roots in the sky and their masterpieces

Each watch brand and its models have their own unique roots. While it's fine to choose a watch based on its design or specifications, learning about the background of a particular model's creation can help you discover new charms, find commonalities with it, feel closer to it, or even make it feel special.
Therefore, in this series, we will be looking at brands and models that are closely related to each theme, with the aim of allowing you to enjoy each model more deeply or broaden your interests. This time, we will be focusing on the sky.
IWC is a well-known brand of pilot's watches.
IWC is well known as a brand that offers pilot's watches. IWC's pilot collection is broadly divided into two categories: "Big Pilot's Watches" and "Pilot's Watches." These are not only classified by size, but also by their origins.
The Big Pilot's Watch originated as a military observation watch for officers at German air bases, developed in 1940. To achieve the high level of accuracy required for maintaining reference time, a large pocket watch movement was installed, leading to the creation of a large wristwatch. The diamond-shaped hour and minute hands that remain in IWC's current models, as well as the diamond-shaped crown that is a characteristic of the Big Pilot's Watch, are based on the design of this military observation watch.
Meanwhile, one of the origins of modern pilot watches is the Mark 11, which began production in 1948 and was delivered to the Royal Air Force. The Mark 11 is a three-hand model with a 36mm case, a soft iron inner case to ensure anti-magnetic properties, and the hand-wound Cal. 89 movement. Although a considerable number were produced until 1984, they were only distributed as so-called surplus items.
IWC released a chronograph model in 1992, and in 1993 began selling the Mark XII, an automatic three-hand model, as the successor to the Mark 11. Since then, the name has been updated with each model change, and as of 2022, the latest model is the Mark XVIII. The Mark 11's distinctive exterior features a square hour hand and a pencil-shaped minute hand. This feature was carried over to the Mark XII, but with the exception of some subsequent tribute models, the watch has been given diamond-shaped hands in the style of a Big Pilot's Watch.
As we have seen, if we trace the lineage of IWC's pilot lineage, we can see its connections with Germany and the UK. So what about today?

The case back is made of Ceratanium, an IWC-exclusive material that combines the scratch resistance of ceramic with the shock resistance of titanium. Ceramic or Ceratanium is used for the cases of this and other Top Gun watches because it is highly scratch-resistant and reliable, even in cockpits where watches are prone to being knocked against equipment. Automatic movement (Cal. 69380). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 46 hours. Ceramic and Ceratanium (diameter 44.5mm, thickness 15.7mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Sold out.
Since 07, IWC has been collaborating with the United States, particularly the U.S. Navy's Special Fighter Tactical Training Course, commonly known as "Top Gun" (the "Top Gun" made famous by the movie). Top Gun, which brings together the most elite of the elite U.S. Navy pilots, provides the highest level of training in fighter aircraft operation and tactics, and pilots who complete the program return to their respective units as instructors.
In 18, IWC began developing pilot's watches in collaboration with Top Gun instructors. Pilots wore the watches during the program and provided IWC with a variety of feedback, resulting in the Top Gun series gaining the reliability to function accurately and reliably in the cockpit of the F/A-18E/F Super Hornet. Through these activities, IWC is now the only company authorized to work on watches for all squadrons of the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps.
Breitling has been focusing on the development of aviation since its founding
Breitling is a brand that is strongly associated with pilot watches. The company is known for its wide range of chronographs for pilots, but its connection with aviation dates back to its early days.
Founder Léon Breitling, who gained fame for his chronograph production from the start of his career, is said to have had a strong interest in aviation and foreseen future business development. This period is noteworthy, as Breitling's origins, the Saint-Imier workshop, opened in 1884, and the Wright brothers' successful manned powered flight occurred in 1903, demonstrating his foresight. His son Gaston, who took over management of the workshop in 14, also focused on the development of aviation and expanded the business into a manufacturer of aviation watches and instruments, marking a turning point for the company's creation as a watch brand that continues to this day.
Utilizing the chronograph technology that had been their specialty since the workshop opened, they released the Chronomat, a chronograph equipped with a rotating slide rule, in 42. In 52, they began development of the Navitimer, which replaced the rotating slide rule with a flight computer (aviation calculator), and released it in 54.

The current model features a bezel with rider tabs and a Rouleaux bracelet, following the design of the 1984 model. While retaining the iconic appearance, the structure and finish have been updated for modern times, redefining it as an all-purpose model that combines the performance of a sports watch with the ability to be worn in any situation. Automatic (Cal. 01). 47 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 42.00 mm, thickness 15.10 mm). Water resistant to 200 m. Price: 1,045,000 yen (tax included).
As you know, these are the core of Breitling's current lineup. Breitling has the philosophy that all of its lineups are instruments for professionals, and it does not compromise on functionality and reliability. This stoicism is what has garnered its support.
Breitling's brand history and lineup are deeply connected to aviation, but the brand's involvement goes beyond that. In addition to a partnership agreement with the International Aeronautical Federation (FAI), the brand also formed the Breitling Jet Team in 2003, the largest civilian acrobatic team using jet aircraft, and served as the domestic partner of Yoshihide Muroya, the 2017 Red Bull Air Race World Series World Champion. Furthermore, the brand is also involved in activities to bring the appeal of aviation closer to users, such as inviting users to aviation-related events.
