Check out this guide to small-batch watches! A guide to micro-maisons

Micro Maisons combine the characteristics of both mass-produced manufacturers and independent watchmakers - consistent quality and a high level of artistic creativity - at a high level. Demand for watches made by these micro maisons has been growing rapidly in recent years. Until now, this genre was seen as the destination of enthusiasts who had already experienced a variety of watches, but why has it come to gain such support? We explore the reasons.

Theme 1: "Movement"

　When talking about micro-maisons these days, the quality of the movement is an essential consideration. Here we will explain five key points, including the chamfering of the bridges and the hole jewels.

　What defines a micro maison? Opinions vary, but we at Chronos Japan consider it to be somewhere between a mass-production manufacturer and an independent watchmaker. In other words, we define a micro maison as a manufacturer that combines the practicality of a mass-production manufacturer with the artistic flair of an independent watchmaker. Therefore, H. Moser & Cie., which produces more than 1500 watches, and Romain Gauthier and NAOYA HIDA & Co., which produce only a few dozen or a few hundred watches, are both included in the same category of micro maison.

　The distinction between independent watchmakers and micro-maisons is quite vague, but the latter often have high "overall scores," including practicality. In other words, they are not specialized in one field, but rather have a well-balanced timepiece. Of course, there are an increasing number of independent watchmakers like this, but some micro-maisons are as impeccable as mass-production manufacturers. Furthermore, being independently owned and, in recent years, using unique in-house movements can also be considered a requirement, though not essential.

　If we use the artistry of a watch as a criterion, one of the things to look at is the movement. In the past, the exterior was a major factor, but now that in-house movements have become the norm, the criteria have clearly shifted to the internals.

　So what people pay attention to in a movement will vary, but the most obvious thing is the chamfering on the movement bridge. In many mass-produced watches, the outer periphery of the bridge is cut at an angle with a diamond cutter. This results in a flat slope. However, even among mass-produced manufacturers, those with the most technical ability (such as Rolex and Seiko) widen the width of the diamond cut to improve the appearance.

　In contrast, many of the higher-priced models produced by Micro Maison have hand-beveled bridges. The difference is that the corners are rounded. The best examples are the Roman Gauthier and Voutilainen. Both have wide bevels and deep, recessed corners (coin-lentrant), evidence of hand-beveling. However, the Zeitwinkel, which is much more modestly priced than these two, also boasts a finish that surpasses many high-end models. The rounded edges make it clear that the finish was done by hand. Furthermore, even with diamond-cut bevels, the quality is such that vertical lines are often barely visible on the surface. Attention to appearance is a major characteristic of today's Micro Maisons.

　The same goes for the pins and screws. In mass-produced watches, where productivity and cost are prioritized over appearance, the top surfaces of the pins are generally flat. In contrast, brands such as H. Moser & Cie., Voutilainen, and Romain Gauthier have pins with dome-shaped raised tops (called Mi-Glace). Without exception, these pins have an arc-shaped inner surface that comes into contact with the tenon, reducing resistance in the gear train. Although costly, pins that combine appearance and performance are one of the signatures of Micro Maison.

　The same goes for screws. There are two types of screws used in so-called luxury watches. One is a "round head screw," which has a rounded head. The other is a "flat head screw," which has a flat head. With the exception of inexpensive movements, most mechanical watches use the latter, and Micro Maison is no exception. However, there are also several grades of flat head screws. Screws with thick heads are of a higher quality because they can be repolished, and even better ones have a chamfered outer circumference and the part where the screwdriver is inserted is cut at an angle (slotted).

　In my opinion, a watch with good screws has attention to detail. The three shown in the photo are the best examples. Roman Gauthier, which manufactures its parts in-house, is even more elaborate, with the grooves shaped like an S so that they can only be opened and closed with a special screwdriver. This is also a detail that can be said to symbolize the artist's skill.

　The element of artistry can also be seen in the design of the movement. This trend has only intensified in recent years, as the elimination of dials has become the norm. Armin Strom, Bovet 1822, and Romain Gauthier all share a common approach: using the movement itself as a design element. This is also the case with mass-production manufacturers, but the micro-maisons, which produce fewer watches, have taken a more cutting-edge approach. Bovet 1822 places the tourbillon carriage at 6 o'clock, creating a V-shaped arrangement for the subdials, and the case itself also forms a V when viewed from the side. This is the kind of attention to detail you'd expect from a micro-maison with an annual production of 2000 pieces.

　Meanwhile, micro-maisons, which create models that do not expose the movement on the dial side, are highlighting their uniqueness through their mechanisms. This has traditionally been a method favored by independent watchmakers, but we are now seeing some interesting attempts from micro-maisons as well. Romain Gauthier's Continuum incorporates a stop-second mechanism as a design element. Although not mentioned here, Armin Strom's resonance mechanism is also a good example of showcasing the mechanism as part of the design. (Masamasa Hirota, this magazine)

Point 1: Chamfering

The most obvious factor in determining the quality of a movement is the chamfering of the bridges. We will look at this feature using three high-quality watches as examples.

Point2 “Anaishi”

　The hole stone is one of the points that Micro Maison, which does not have to consider productivity as much, can use to differentiate itself from large manufacturers. Let's take a look at its shape.

　Without exception, Micro Maison movements with excellent finishes use high-quality hole jewels. Of course, they are not made of cheap polychrome, but artificial rubies. The three in the photo are the best samples. The inside of the hole is rounded (olive processing) to reduce the resistance of the tenon, and the top surface is also finished in a three-dimensional manner (mi-glace). In addition, the area around the hole is also finished to a mirror finish to highlight the three-dimensional hole jewel. All of these finishes can be said to be exemplary hole jewels. In the past, quality was determined by color, but now it is almost irrelevant.

Point 3: Screw handling

　One of Micro Maison's strengths is the ability to pay attention to even the smallest details, such as screws.

　A well-finished movement will have excellent screws as well as jewels. Many people prize blued pieces, but high-quality screws have flat, mirror-finished surfaces. Even better ones will have a beveled "slot" where the screwdriver is inserted, and the outer periphery will also be chamfered.

Romain Gautier "Continuum Titanium Edition One"
This watch features offset hour and minute hands, a small second at 7 o'clock, and indexes of different lengths. The quality of the finish remains high. Manual winding. 24 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Ti (diameter 41mm, thickness 9.55mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Limited to 28 pieces worldwide. Sold out. For inquiries, please contact Swiss Prime Brands at 03-6226-4650.

Moritz Grossmann "37 Arabic"
A 37mm case model with a chic monotone coloring. Equipped with a compact movement developed for the Tefnut. Manual winding (Cal. 102.1). 22 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. 18KWG (diameter 37mm, thickness 9.2mm). 4,730,000 yen (tax included). For inquiries: Moritz Grossmann Boutique Tel. 03-5615-8185

Point 4: Uniqueness (design)

　The watch, which incorporates the design of the movement into the overall design of the watch, shines with the individuality that is unique to Micro Maison.

　Originality is key for Micro Maison watches. The trend is to emphasize the movement's shape as a design element. The three models shown in the photo are the most obvious examples of this.

Bovet 1822 "Recital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two"
This series features a distinctive lighting slope case. The detailed cut model features a turquoise dial (limited to 5 pieces worldwide). Manual winding (Cal. 17DM06-DT). 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 5 days. Sapphire crystal (diameter 46mm). Water resistant to 30m. Limited to 10 pieces worldwide. 50.6 million yen (tax included). For inquiries, please contact Bovet 1822 Japan at 03-6264-5665.

Armin Strom "Orbit First Edition"
This model indicates the date using hands and a bezel shaped like the company's initials. When off, the hands point to "DATE." Automatic (Cal. ASS20). 30 jewels. 25,200 vph. Power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 43.4mm, thickness 12.6mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Limited to 25 pieces worldwide. Estimated price: 4,378,000 yen (tax included). For inquiries, please contact Noble Styling at 03-6277-1604.

Point 5 “Uniqueness (mechanism)”

　Among the micro-maisons that are able to manufacture their own movements, models incorporating unique mechanisms are particularly noteworthy. We will introduce three examples that aim to improve performance and take design into consideration.

　Micro-maisons, which are somewhere between independent watchmakers and major manufacturers, often feature unique mechanisms. The escapement wars of the past have faded, but mechanisms that cannot be adopted in mass-produced watches are still a feature of micro-maisons.