In this series, the editorial staff of Kronos Japan give their impressions of popular models and discuss them. This time, the four editors - Editor-in-Chief Masamasa Hirota, Deputy Editor-in-Chief Yukiya Suzuki, "Hosoyan" (aka Yuto Hosoda), and newcomer Yasunori Doi - will freely review the Tutima "Patria."
Text by Yoshiko Agata
Article published on December 31, 2022
This watch is equipped with an in-house hand-wound movement, developed to commemorate the company's return to its birthplace of Glashütte. The see-through caseback reveals traditional Glashütte-style details such as a grained three-quarter plate and a screw balance. Hand-wound (Cal. 617). 20 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 43mm, thickness 11mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. Price: 957,000 yen (tax included).
The SS model comes in a dressy blue or a modern gray.
Hosoda
Tutima's Patria was released in a gold case in 2013, and a stainless steel case was added in 2019. Its biggest feature is that it is equipped with a large in-house movement.
(I.e.
That's why the case is so large, measuring 43mm in diameter and 11mm thick.
HosodaDespite being a typical Glashütte-style three-quarter plate, it also features a free-sprung spring, which I think is a great effort for an in-house product. Initially, the stainless steel model was priced at around 600,000 yen, and was hailed by some enthusiasts as a model with excellent value for money. However, due to the weak yen and the overall rise in prices in the watch industry, the price has now risen to just under 1 million yen. With that in mind, I would like to hold a discussion to discuss whether it still offers good value.
(I.e.We've been talking about the price since the beginning, but I thought it was a really good deal when it was first released (698,000 yen, excluding tax), but now that it's gone up to this point... well, maybe it's still worth it. After actually wearing it, I was very satisfied with the watch.
HosodaThis time, Yukiya and I tried the blue dial, while Hakase and Doi tried the gray dial. The blue dial has a very glossy finish, while the gray has a matte finish. Which do you prefer? In the lineup, blue is the standard color, and gray was added in 2022.
(I.e.This is a matter of personal preference.
Hirota
The gray is a matte lacquer, and I think the rough finish makes it look like a practical watch.
(I.e.I think matte is best for practicality, as it can be used in a variety of situations.
Doi
Tutima has a strong image of military watches, so this texture made sense.
HosodaHow was the visibility of the gray dial? Is it non-reflective?
DoiThe index is in five-minute increments, so you have to look at each minute, but it was still very easy to see the time.
HosodaOn the other hand, the blue dial was polished lacquer. What did you think of it, Yukiya?
(I.e.As expected, the shiny blue color is beautiful and it felt great to wear.
HosodaConsidering the Tutima brand, as Doi said earlier, gray is more "typical," but the Patria itself is a different kind of watch compared to other Tutima models... If you consider the case shape and polishing overall, I can't help but feel that blue would be more natural.
DoiThe blue dial model has a polished case, giving the watch a unified look. Another unique feature is that the straps are finished to match the dials. Both models are made of alligator leather, but the blue model has a thicker, glossy finish, while the gray model has a thinner, matte finish.
(I.e.The blue strap felt a little stiff after just a short time of use. I think it's because the watch is large and is made to withstand that, and it will probably become more comfortable with extended use.
DoiAlso, if you have thin arms, you might need to add more strap holes, as the holes are only in fairly large places.
HosodaI guess it's for Germans after all.
DoiThe lug width of 21mm is a bit of a problem, as it's not a size that's often available on the market. The original strap didn't fit me, so I used my own 22mm strap (lol).
Mature packaging with details and polish
HosodaAlso, I was really curious about the finish on the side of the needle. What did you all think?
(I.e.I wonder if this roughness is just a cut or if it's done on purpose.
HosodaThe edges are angled, so I think that's intentional... However, I think it's not beautiful because it looks like it's been cut off, so that's a bit of a shame.
(I.e.If you're going to do a matte edge treatment, it might be easier to see if you make it a little finer.
DoiOn the other hand, the hakama at the base of the needle is very solidly made, which is a highlight.
HosodaThat's right. The photographer who took the photos this time has also taken a lot of photos of watches, and he was amazed by the Hakama. He said it was amazing how sturdy it was. Do Tutima also make their own hands?
HirotaThey probably buy them from Europe, but I think they're getting them from a reputable supplier. The case and strap are well-made, and it seems like they've paid close attention to the small details.
(I.e.Being able to control the package shows that you are a mature manufacturer.
HirotaThere is no problem with small manufacturers, where unfortunately some parts are missing.
(I.e.In that sense, I think it's a watch that is very well-made and highly satisfying overall.
HosodaAlso, the polishing of the case is very good. What do you think of the proportions when viewed from the side of the case?
DoiThere was hardly any distortion and I thought it was very beautiful. What I particularly liked was that the surface was polished even between the lugs without any distortion.
HosodaEven in high-end watches, even if the case sides are fine, there are quite a few cases where the lugs are warped. Are the lugs brazed?
HirotaNo, this is SS, so it's molded as a single piece.
HosodaI see. That makes it even harder to polish, so that's amazing.
(I.e.The good proportions when viewed from an angle are highly commendable as a watch.
