This year marks the 20th anniversary of the Tambour collection, which was first released in 2002. What was initially a basic collection has since evolved into something unique and high-quality. We look back on its history.
The Tambour 20th Anniversary model is a reissue of the "LV277." However, the exterior quality has been further improved and the strap has been changed to an interchangeable one. Automatic (Cal. LV277, based on El Primero). 31 jewels. 36,000 vph. Power reserve approximately 50 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41.5mm, thickness 13.20mm). Water resistant to 100m. Sold out.
Text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2022 issue of Kronos Japan]
Louis Vuitton Tambour celebrates 20 years since its release
Louis Vuitton made its full-scale entry into watchmaking in 2002. Its first commemorative product was the Tambour, with a case modeled after a drum. Its design is derived from the drum clock, a portable timepiece from 1540. Portable drum clocks were "travel clocks" created in the early days of mechanical timepieces, so it was only natural that Louis Vuitton, with its roots in travel, would choose it as the subject of an homage.
The first model featured a GMT mechanism. The next release was the Tambour LV277 Chronograph, equipped with an El Primero movement. It wasn't until the 09 Tambour Spin Time that Louis Vuitton began to clearly assert its individuality. Focusing on uniqueness, the company released the Tambour Mystérieuse the following year, and completed the Tambour Minute Repeater in 11. The acquisition of La Fabrique du Temps (now La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, or LFTLV), one of Switzerland's leading luxury watchmaking factories, and the dial factory Leman Cadrans, marked a major leap forward for Louis Vuitton's watchmaking.
As a source at the time said, the company wanted to challenge the watch industry not by relying on the Louis Vuitton brand name, but by the quality of the watches themselves. Naturally, the company rapidly improved quality while digging deeper into its own unique character. The first step was to produce some of its movements and dials in-house, and then to change and bolster its suppliers. Fortunately, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, founders of La Fabrique du Temps, had excellent connections in the watch industry. They used those connections to assemble the best suppliers for Louis Vuitton. Navas told me, "Louis Vuitton doesn't need to become a full-fledged manufacture, because we know the best partners."
The result was the Tambour collection from the mid-10s onwards. The mirror-finished case had less distortion on the surface, and the colorful hands were more vibrant than before. It was around this time that the Tambour began to appeal to people other than Louis Vuitton fans.
The pursuit of uniqueness and quality came to fruition with the 17 Tambour Moon. The aim with this model was to establish a new identity without losing the Tambour character. LFTLV, who designed the case, succeeded in creating a unique shape by curving the sides inward rather than protruding. This was probably the first case with a concave side. Moreover, despite the complex shape, the mirror polish is flawless.
Subsequent Tambour collections have further refined their uniqueness and quality. The "Poinçon de Genève" with the Hallmark of Geneva is an attempt to combine the Tambour design with the finishing of luxury watches. The "Spin Time" which has become one of the icons has been updated almost every year. The attempt to not only make the cube float in the air but also to make it luminous is unprecedented.
With the Tambour, Louis Vuitton's watchmaking took a giant leap forward. The company, which once tried to rival the most prestigious watchmakers, has transformed into a watchmaker that no other company can match. Its journey is one of a kind.
Tambour's "Journey" [1988 - 2021]
Louis Vuitton's first wristwatch was the Louis Vuitton LV1 in 1988. It was designed by architect Gae Aulenti (!) and the movement was developed by IWC. The first watch they produced after entering the watch industry in earnest was the original Tambour in 2002. It had a 39.5mm case and was equipped with an ETA2893 movement.
The next watch to be produced was the Tambour LV277 Chronograph, an ambitious piece equipped with the El Primero movement. Today, it is a collector's item. The Tambour Spin Time, released in 09, defined the company's future. It was a new generation of jumping hour timepiece, with a rotating cube indicating the time.
An extension of this is the Tambour Minute Repeater. Developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFTLV), this model boasts a GMT and day/night indicator in addition to a repeater, as well as a power reserve of approximately 100 hours. The Tambour Twin Chrono, released in 2013, emphasized the uniqueness of its display. This model, commemorating the 30th anniversary of the Louis Vuitton Cup, features three subdials operated by a single push button.
The two major models that use the Tambour Moon case are the Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève and the Tambour Moon Mystérieuse Flying Tourbillon. These two models established the direction of emphasizing the mechanism. The 2019 Tambour Spin Time Air is an extension of this trend. The base movement is made as small as possible, emphasizing the cube that displays the time.
The Tambour Carpe Diem automaton is a watch that specializes in savoir-faire. When the automaton is activated, the skull and the snake entangled within it move first. As the snake tilts its head, the hour display within the skull appears, while its tail points to the minutes. The skull's left eye then transforms into a Monogram Flower, and the name of the model, "Carpe Diem (Seize the Day)," appears inside its mouth.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Exhibition
This year marks the 20th anniversary of Louis Vuitton's Tambour, which was first introduced in 2002. It is undoubtedly an iconic timepiece representing the Maison. A variety of models have been released to date, each incorporating the Maison's DNA of "the essence of travel" and unparalleled craftsmanship.
To commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Tambour, an exhibition will be held as follows, looking back on the history of Louis Vuitton watchmaking through highlights of historical pieces. This is an opportunity to see and feel Louis Vuitton's passion for watchmaking firsthand.
Event dates: Thursday, September 29th to Sunday, October 16th, 2022
Venue: Louis Vuitton Shibuya Men's Store, 2nd floor
Miyashita Park North, 6-20-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0001
Event time: 11:00-21:00
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