A review of the Superocean Automatic 42, a versatile model that reimagines Breitling's DNA for the modern era

This review focuses on Breitling's new Superocean Automatic 42. This 300m water-resistant diver's watch inherits the design of the 1960s Superocean Slow Motion. Despite its unique design, this watch is solidly and honestly crafted, a deep-seated piece that symbolizes the new Breitling.

Breitling's new organization continues to revamp its collections

　Breitling revamped its management structure in 2017, bringing in former IWC CEO Georges Kern to lead the company. Since then, the company has restructured its product categories and expanded its collection accordingly.

　Specifically, the collection was divided into three categories: Sky, Sea, Land, and Professional, and the concept of each was clearly defined. Each category was then designed to offer a variety of models, from elegant models to full-fledged sports watches.

　In 2018, they quickly released the Navitimer 8, which did away with the rotary slide rule, the three-hand Navitimer, and the new Premier collection, and in 2020 they added the classic Chronomat, reminiscent of the 1984 model. It's also fresh in our memory that in 2022 the standard Navitimer, equipped with a chronograph, was updated.

　These are just a few examples, but one thing that many of the new collections have in common is that they are inspired by archive pieces that have been woven throughout Breitling's long history, and the Superocean Automatic 42, which we will be reviewing today, is no exception.

The new "Superocean" inherits the design from the 1960s

　Breitling's Superocean diver's watch collection falls into the "ocean" category. The current Superocean series is large, with the Superocean Automatic featuring a molded rubber bezel and 500m water resistance, and the other new Superocean Automatic from 22 that we will review here. In addition, the lineup also includes the classic Superocean Heritage and the Superocean Heritage '57, which features a non-screw-down crown and a bidirectional rotating bezel.

　Furthermore, each watch comes in a variety of sizes, colors, materials, etc., but when lined up like this, it is clear that the same category covers everything from full-fledged diver watches for professional use to elegant diver-style models.

　The subject of this review, the Superocean Automatic 42, follows the design of the Superocean Slow Motion, which was released in the 1960s. The original was a chronograph diver's watch with a central 60-minute counter. Its major design features include a large square pointer on the minute counter hand and a minute scale with black printing on a white background.

　Not only was it equipped with a chronograph, a function essential for a diver's watch to measure elapsed time, but it also had a central minute counter to improve visibility underwater. Indeed, many chronographs have a subdial for the 30-minute counter, making it difficult to instantly tell whether the time indicated 15 minutes or 45 minutes. And most importantly, the hands and scales themselves are small with an in-dial. The term "slow motion" was likely coined because the minute counter hand slowly rotates around the clock over the course of 60 minutes, a unique feature even at the time.

　However, the current model, the Superocean Automatic 42, is a three-hand model without a chronograph mechanism. Therefore, the distinctive square pointer is used for the minute hand that displays the time. The wide minute scale also inherits the original design. The sleek case with a ceramic bezel and crown guard gives it a modern impression, but its details retain the DNA of Breitling's heritage pieces.

Luxurious details shine through in the compact exterior

　Now, let's move on to the review. The first thing I noticed when I picked up this watch was that it felt smaller than its 42mm case diameter. One reason for this is probably that the length from the top to bottom of the lugs (the vertical length of the case) is relatively short at 47.7mm.

　For reference, the 500m water-resistant "Superocean Automatic 42," which has been in the lineup for some time, has a length of 50.6mm, a difference of about 3mm. In addition, the wide flange, which also serves as the minute scale, makes the dial itself appear smaller, which likely contributes to its compact appearance. Sports watches are generally designed to maintain sufficient clearance between the hands to prevent them from interfering with each other and ceasing function in the event of an impact. The distinctive cone-shaped flange also has the effect of making this clearance appear smaller, giving the watch a sense of compactness.

　Even when viewed from the side, the compact impression remains. By distributing the volume evenly between the bezel and middle case, the design is concealed. However, considering that it is a 300m water resistant diver's watch, the case thickness of 12.5mm is not particularly thick.

　The case is finished in a satin finish with polished edges, a technique often used to give practical watches a three-dimensional look. The way the chamfer connects to the crown guard, combined with the slender lugs, gives it an elegant feel.

　The dial is glossy black and is surrounded by 12 square indexes generously coated with Super-LumiNova. The indexes at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock are slightly longer, and the index at 12 o'clock is trapezoidal, so there is no need to worry about misreading it even in the dark.

　This model also comes with a no-date function. While people's preferences for whether or not to have a date function vary greatly, its symmetrical design and ease of use, even when stopped, simply by adjusting the time, make it appealing. The Cal. B 17 movement boasts a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. While this would have been considered standard a few years ago, with the trend toward long power reserves now reaching even the lower price range, it must be said to be relatively short. While this won't be a problem if worn daily, for collectors who use multiple watches, the no-date function, which reduces the hassle of getting started, is a welcome feature.

　The unidirectional rotating bezel is set with a ceramic insert. The numerals and markers on the bezel are deeply engraved. This gives it a three-dimensional appearance and enhances its luxurious appearance. Of course, the material's excellent scratch resistance and weather resistance also offer practical benefits. The bezel can be precisely set at 120 clicks per rotation. It is very light to turn, allowing you to set it exactly where you want it.

　The strap is made of rubber. It features a fabric-like pattern on both sides, and the lug width is 22mm, narrowing to 18mm at the clasp, giving it a clean look. It is equipped with a folding clasp, and the strap itself is physically cut to fit the user's wrist and then attached to the clasp. Although the cut portion cannot be restored, the clasp mechanism allows for fine adjustment of the length after cutting.

　The clasp is a one-push, three-fold type. Many sports watches have a double locking mechanism on their clasps, but this model does not have such a feature. With a snap-on clasp, the clasp can open when you bend your wrist due to deterioration over time, but with a push-button clasp, it is unlikely to open on its own. It seems that the emphasis was placed on ease of putting on and taking off the watch, rather than the security of a double lock.

　The fine-tuning mechanism is hidden inside the clasp. By pressing down on the grooved lever and pulling or pushing the strap, you can adjust the length up to 15 mm. With such a wide adjustment range, there's a good chance you can recover the strap even if your body shape or physical condition changes, or if you accidentally cut it a little too short. However, when it comes to cutting the strap, it's best to ask a professional at your local retailer.

　Another thing you'll notice when looking at the strap is that the gap between the strap and the case has been narrowed. To be precise, the middle case has a slight recess to allow the strap to move freely. It's a small detail, but it's an important one in creating a sense of tension throughout the watch. Even though the gap is narrow, the strap can still move smoothly, likely due to the high level of precision in the manufacturing process.