The appeal of Tudor goes beyond price. Learn about the differences with Rolex and popular models.

2022.12.12

Originally launched as a cheaper version of Rolex, Tudor has now established itself as a popular brand. By learning about the appeal and history of Tudor, we hope you will be able to choose the perfect watch for you.


What is Tudor?

 Tudor, formerly known as "Tudor," attracted attention as a brand that offered watches that embodied the essence of Rolex at reasonable prices. However, in recent years, the image of it being a "younger brother of Rolex" has faded, and it has become increasingly popular as a brand in its own right.

 Let's unravel the history and appeal of Tudor.

Tudor History

 Tudor is a Rolex diffusion brand established in 1926 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf.

 Even at that time, Rolex had the highest level of watchmaking technology, but unfortunately, manufacturing costs were high and they were not well known among the general public. Therefore, in order to raise awareness of Rolex and expand sales channels, Tudor was established as a diffusion brand for Rolex.

Hans Wilsdorf

Hans Wilsdorf, who created Rolex and established Tudor as a diffusion brand, founded Wilsdorf & Davis in London with his business partner Alfred James Davis, and changed the company name to Rolex Watch Company in 1915. He later founded Tudor.

 The brand name was named after the Tudor family, a British royal family. By using a name that everyone knows, the aim was to establish the brand as one that would be familiar to the British people.

 Tudor, which had the watchmaking technology of Rolex but was priced so that the general public could afford it, quickly became popular in the UK, and Rolex's status and recognition improved dramatically.

 Tudor continued to evolve alongside Rolex, gradually gaining its own fanbase. Since the 1960s, the brand's designs have become more differentiated, and in 2015, Tudor's long-awaited first in-house movement, the caliber MT5602, was released.

The allure of Tudor

 The greatest strength of Tudor is that, while it is cheaper than Rolex, it uses the same parts as Rolex for the majority of its components, such as the dial, crown, case back, etc. In particular, one of its great attractions is that Tudor also uses the Oyster case, the world's first waterproof case for a wristwatch.

 They come in a wide variety of sizes and colors, and while Rolex has an image of being noble, they generally have a stronger impression of being closer to the common people, making them loved by a wide range of people.

 However, there are models that look almost identical to Rolex at first glance, such as Rolex's Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Tudor's Tudor Oyster Submariner, and it is very impressive that Tudor is respecting Rolex while also rapidly developing its own unique brand.

Ref.7923

The only Tudor Oyster Submariner equipped with a manual-winding movement, the Ref. 7923. With a screw-down caseback, crown, and domed crystal, the Oyster case maintained water resistance to 100m even when it was produced in the 1950s.


The Difference Between Tudor and Rolex

 When purchasing a Tudor, the thing you'll probably be most concerned about is how it differs from a Rolex.

 The biggest difference between Rolex and Tudor is the price, but other differences include the materials and movements, which we will introduce below.

Material difference

 The stainless steel used by Tudor is a material called 316L, which is also known as surgical stainless steel and is often used for medical equipment and accessories.

 On the other hand, Rolex uses a proprietary material called Oystersteel, which belongs to the 904L stainless steel family and has the same corrosion resistance and durability as materials used in the aerospace and high-tech industries.

Differences in movements

 Until Tudor developed its own in-house movement in 2015, it used generic ETA movements, which allowed it to significantly reduce costs.

 Although it is a general-purpose movement, it is also used by luxury watch brands such as Omega, Panerai, and Tag Heuer, so it is impeccable in terms of performance.

 However, since 15, Tudor has been using in-house movements that have significantly improved accuracy while keeping prices down. They have also been certified as chronometers, and their performance is comparable to that of Rolex movements.

Cal.MT5602

The caliber MT5602 is found in iconic models such as the Black Bay. Developed in collaboration with movement supplier Kenissi, this practical movement boasts a generous power reserve of approximately 70 hours and a silicon balance spring that is unaffected by magnetism. It maintains high accuracy in line with COSC chronometer standards. It is automatic (31.8mm diameter, 6.5mm thick), has 25 jewels, and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It boasts a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

 On the other hand, Rolex's movements boast even higher precision and durability than Tudor's. Most of the parts of the in-house movements used in Rolex watches are rhodium-plated to prevent rust and corrosion.

 Furthermore, Tudor uses silicon for the balance spring, which determines the accuracy of the watch, while Rolex uses Parachrom. Silicon balance springs are also sufficiently accurate, but Parachrom balance springs are still more accurate.


6 Popular Models Packed with Tudor's Charm

Next, we will introduce six popular models that are packed with Tudor charm.

ペラゴス39

The Pegolas 39 is a Tudor watch designed for divers, emphasizing functionality. With a small, thin case (39mm diameter), it also has a strong image as a tool watch that can be used anywhere. The Pegolas 39 is water resistant to 200m, which is not suitable for saturation diving, but is sufficient for water activities.

It's perfect for those looking for a quality watch that can withstand heavy use. It's not a watch that boasts of its finish or status, but it's one that can be used for a long time and that you'll grow to love.

ペラゴス39

Tudor Pelagos 39
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5400). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Ti case (diameter 39mm, thickness 11.8mm). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 537,900 yen (tax included).

Ranger

The Ranger was created to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Royal Navy's North Greenland Expedition. Developed as a "robust, practical, and accessible tool watch," it embodies the spirit of courageous adventure.

The caliber MT5402 is a manufacture movement developed in collaboration with Kenissi and is chronometer-certified. It has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, making it both practical and reliable.

Tudor "Ranger"
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5402). 27 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 685,300 yen (tax included).

Black Bay Pro

 The Black Bay Pro is a high-spec version of the Black Bay, with a more tool-like finish. Its small 39mm case and subtle retro design make it an appealing watch.

 The main feature of this model is that, while it has a retro design, the indexes are made of a luminous paint that is a mixture of ceramic and Luminova. The black dial, which is both unique and practical, represents the essence of Tudor.

Black Bay Pro

Tudor Black Bay Pro
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5652). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 685,300 yen (tax included).

Black Bay GMT

 The Black Bay GMT is equipped with a user-friendly GMT mechanism that allows you to adjust the watch independently.

 The clear applied indexes, consisting of eight circles, rectangles at 6 and 9 o'clock, and a triangle at 12 o'clock, stand out against the black dial and are highly visible. They are coated with luminous paint, ensuring high visibility day or night.

Black Bay GMT

Tudor Black Bay GMT
Automatic movement (Cal. MT5652). 28 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter). Water resistant to 200m. Price: 685,300 yen (tax included).

Tudor Royal

 The Tudor Royal has a beautiful form with flowing lines from the case to the bracelet, and is a model that uses Tudor's unique design that is not found in Rolex.

 As of 2022, there are 54 different variations available, with men's sizes available in 41mm and 38mm, and women's sizes available in 34mm and 28mm. However, only the 41mm size has a day and date display, while sizes 38mm and below only have a date display.

Tudor Royal

Tudor "Tudor Royal"
Automatic movement (Cal. T603). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 365,200 yen (tax included).

Tudor 1926

 The Tudor 1926 is designed for both men and women who appreciate classic watches and is named after the year the Tudor brand was founded.

 The bracelet, which combines robustness and flexibility and is made by inheriting the technology that Tudor has cultivated over many years, has a sophisticated design that takes into consideration comfortable wearability and quality, and is manufactured to fit perfectly to the curves of the wrist.

Tudor 1926

Tudor "Tudor 1926"
Automatic movement (Cal. T201). 25 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 38 hours. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 312,400 yen (tax included).


Enjoy the unique charm of Tudor

 Tudor is an attractive brand that offers great value for money, combining Rolex's outstanding watchmaking technology with reasonable prices.

 However, the days when Tudor was considered a younger brother of Rolex are long gone. Tudor has established its own unique reputation for practicality and reliability.

 Experience the unique charm of Tudor and choose the one that suits you best.



Contact info: Rolex Japan / Tudor Tel. 03-3216-5671


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