Van Cleef & Arpels to host exhibition showcasing the changing face of nature in Kyoto

2022.12.01

Van Cleef & Arpels' exhibition "LIGHT OF FLOWERS" has been attracting attention since it opened on November 3, 2022, at Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto. Based on the theme of "Flowers in the Changing Seasons," the exhibition showcases the poetic world of flower arrangement artist Atsunobu Katagiri, inspired by Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, as well as the diverse floral jewelry the Maison has created.

Van Cleef & Arpels Exhibition

In fact, this is the third collaboration between Van Cleef & Arpels and Katagiri.
It all started when Osaka-based Katagiri was in charge of an ikebana installation for the opening of the Shinsaibashi store. Impressed by the beauty of the installation, Nicolas Boss, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, expressed a desire to work together again, which led to the holding of "LIGHT OF FLOWERS Hana no Hikari" in Daikanyama, Tokyo in the spring of 2021. Many people who actually visited the exhibition will likely remember the gorgeous and colorful installation.

Nicolas Bos

The collaboration follows on from the Daikanyama store, which began when Nicolas Boss, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, was inspired by Katagiri Noriaki's flower arrangement installation at the opening of the Shinsaibashi store.

This time, the colors are completely different, with many muted earth tones, allowing you to experience the passage of time as autumn approaches, and the poetic atmosphere of the exhibits is impressive. If you go out when you feel tired, you will find your soul soothed by the activities of plants and energized by the precious jeweled flowers. Why not take a trip to Kyoto, where the autumn leaves are also beautiful?

Text by Rica Ogura
Article published on June 2022, 12


"Impermanence" and "eternity": opposing themes coexist

 Watch enthusiasts will still remember the impact of Van Cleef & Arpels' new Poetic Complications, the Lady Arpels Heure Floral watch, unveiled at the 2022 Watches & Wonders Geneva. The time is not indicated by hands, but by 12 flowers blooming on the dial. Each hour, a flower blooms, equal to the number of hours, to indicate the time. Every hour, all the flowers close, then reopen, the appropriate number for the hour. The flowers that open each morning, afternoon, and the following morning are different, creating a visual feast reminiscent of a real tree. It's no exaggeration to say that Van Cleef & Arpels is the master of breathing eternal life into the fleeting nature of falling flowers.

 This exhibition seems to have taken the spirit of the maison from a watch to Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto on a different scale. There are three venues in total. Let me introduce you to the experiences you can have.

The changing of autumn in Tadasu Forest

 We recommend starting your visit with the exhibition in Tadasu Forest. Walking a short distance towards the shrine, you will see a structure on your right that resembles the Jomon ruins shown in the photo above, known as the "Fallen Leaves Shrine." It is quiet, so be careful not to pass it by. The moment you pass through this tunnel, your journey of immersion in flowers and light begins. As you pass through, please take a look at the glass ceiling. This allows you to see the changing colors of the autumn leaves nearby, the shape of the tree trunks, and the way the leaves pile up. There are many opportunities to see falling leaves in late autumn, but when you see them framed again, it feels fresh and like watching a short movie.

Looking up from the shrine made of fallen leaves, you feel as if you are looking down from the ground. This structure was made by a plasterer.

 Stop there for a moment, then continue on. Soon you'll come to a place where a small stream flows. I recommend bending down and dipping your hands into the stream, as if purifying yourself at a temizuya. If you do, although it's hard to see while standing, you'll be greeted by an unexpected welcome: an arrangement of autumn wildflowers by Katagiri himself, spread out before you in a vibrant presence in the stream. If you take your time, you'll be captivated by the way the plants change their appearance with the light and wind.

 Katagiri explains the appeal of Van Cleef & Arpels as follows: "They are delicate and bloom quietly like wildflowers, but once you find them, they have the power to capture your eyes." There are flowers like these in the streams, so it's worth taking your time to find them.

Katagiri's Ikebana

Katagiri Atsuo's Ikebana arrangements are placed here and there in the stream. They are arranged in acrylic containers in consideration of the natural environment. The exhibition draws the eye upstream of the stream.

 While still basking in the afterglow of the stream, we next head to a special venue within the shrine grounds. Located to the east of the main hall, the venue was built specifically for this exhibition. Step inside the pitch-black building and another world awaits. A tapestry of footage of fallen leaves bearing insect bites covers the entire back wall, and in front of it, autumn plants are arranged in a watery, comforting manner. Water occasionally drips from the ceiling, creating a truly mystical sight as it spreads ripples around the plants.

A once-in-a-lifetime beauty created by the cycle of water and light, nature

 The light filtering through the video tapestry and the leaf-covered ceiling also beautifully illuminates the ever-changing time. Autumn, when the leaves are dyed red and red, is often described as a "brocade of color," but spending time in this space makes it clear that autumn is in fact a rich season overflowing with color, as seen in the profound hues woven by nature. Furthermore, by visiting on different days and at different times, you can enjoy the beauty of different colors. The sight of nature before your eyes is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. This is why many people come here without words, simply letting themselves go with the flow of nature, in order to cherish this fleeting beauty in their memories. They are so captivated that it is difficult to leave this space.

Mitarashi River

The Mitarashi River flows in front of the special venue. Shimogamo Shrine is also famous for its water fortune telling.

 The special venue's water and light garden continues from the stream at the Fallen Leaves Shrine. Never compromising on water, Shimogamo Shrine was chosen for this occasion. "Right next to the main venue there is a shrine where water gushes forth, and the water that springs from that source turns into a stream that flows through the forest and then pours into the Kamo River. Shimogamo Shrine is not just about water in an artificially constructed space, but has a continuous vein of water flowing beneath the venue itself, which flows into the large river; it is a place where a large water cycle already exists that envelops the venue itself," says Katagiri. The story, which is connected by water, which can be said to be the source of life, comes to a close in the final Hosodono.

The special venue, where a world of brocade unfolds, is a space you'll want to visit again and again.

 Leaving the special venue, you will come across the Mitarashi Pond that flows right in front of you and you will find the Hosodono. The 72 pieces lined up in the two showcases are precious archive pieces known as museum pieces, as well as flora and fauna jewelry from the contemporary collection. The cases are intentionally made low, about knee-high, so that visitors can peer into the water's surface. A plasterer has created clay shapes that resemble moving water, and the pieces are displayed there regardless of age or technique. Another distinctive feature is that, unlike in a museum, there are no descriptions for each piece. Just as there are no descriptions for the natural flowers in the special venue, the intention is for visitors to simply appreciate the beauty of the shapes.

 Katagiri commented on the exhibition, "Rather than being individual flowers, the jewelry has a will of its own within the flow of water in the entire exhibition, and has a lightness that makes it seem as if it could start moving. It transcends the rules of jewelry and wearable items, and the exhibition makes each individual flower appear vibrant against the backdrop of the flowing water, which is expressed by sculpting clay."

Enjoy the eternal beauty of nature through jewelry scrolls

 This exhibition allows you to experience the transience and passage of time, concluding with art that bestows eternal life upon its forms. The charm of the exhibition lies in the fact that you will experience something different every time you visit. I hope that this exhibition will inspire me to visit Kyoto frequently this autumn.

I encourage you to sit down and look at the pieces from various angles. Personally, I wanted to become a dwarf and wander through this forest of jewelry.

(Left) Two-leaf clip made around 1954. (Center) Bouquet bouclet clip made in 1958. (Right) Butterfly clip made in 1975.

Rose de Noel clips made with various ornamental stones. Turquoise on the left, lapis lazuli on the right. Mother-of-pearl earrings in the center. The feathers on the Papillon clip made in 1971 are malachite.