In October 2022, Patek Philippe announced a total of eight new models (nine if you include the cufflinks), four of which are chronographs and four of which are Nautilus models. While most of these are cosmetic changes, they all have the finish that is characteristic of Patek Philippe, which focuses on the exterior.
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]
Deepening the Peak
Of the eight new models Patek Philippe has eagerly announced, the first to be mentioned is the Nautilus 5811/1G. This is the successor to the 5711/1A, which was discontinued in 2021. As the "G" in the reference number indicates, the exterior material has been changed from stainless steel to 18K white gold, the case is slightly larger and thinner, and the case structure has been changed from three pieces to two pieces.
(Right) Compared to the 5711/1A, the diameter from 40mm to 4 o'clock has increased from 40mm to 41mm, and the case thickness has also been reduced by 0.1mm to 8.2mm. Furthermore, while the 5711/1A had a standard three-piece case, the new 5811/1G has returned to the same two-piece design as the original.
The 5711, with its excellent balance between the head and bracelet, has always been comfortable to wear. The bracelet is fastened with pins rather than screws, which actually gives the bracelet just the right amount of flexibility. This characteristic is also present in the new 5811, and the overall weight of the watch has made the balance seem even more pronounced.
Additionally, the buckle with extension, which allows for fine adjustment of 2mm and 4mm, will be welcomed by those who are particular about fit. As expected from Patek Philippe, which has always been conservative about buckles, the new buckle is thin enough not to interfere with desk work, and is more rigid than it looks.
The new Ref. 5712 is the Ref. 5712/1R-001. It features the same movement and dial finish, but the precious metal exterior and brown sunburst dial emphasize the luxury feel. It comes with an extension buckle. Automatic (Cal. 240 PS IRM C LU). 29 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve: approximately 48 hours. 18KRG (diameter 40mm from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, thickness 8.52mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. Price: 11,132,000 yen (tax included).
The one that personally caught my eye was the 5712/1R with a moon phase display. This is the regular gold version. As always, the weight balance between the case and bracelet is excellent, making it comfortable to wear. This one also comes with an extension buckle.
The existing model will be replaced by the Flyback Chronograph Travel Time Ref. 5990/1A. The dial has been changed to a dark blue sunburst, and the buckle has also been changed. The head of this model is heavier than the basic Nautilus, so the extension buckle will be useful. While not as comfortable as the Ref. 5811 or Ref. 5711, the fit on the wrist has been improved. The local time and home time display functions remain the same as before, and the smooth feel of the operating buttons remains the same as the existing model.
(Right) The Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU seen from the back. The case has been changed to 18KRG, but the weight balance between the bracelet and the watch itself is good, and the case back is large, so the fit remains excellent. The back of the case is meticulously blasted.
The exterior of the chronographs was also improved. The model aimed at connoisseurs was the 5935A "World Time Flyback Chronograph." As the "A" in the reference number indicates, the case is made of stainless steel and the dial is rose gold.
The carbon motif on the dial is modeled after the model exhibited at the biennial charity auction "Only Watch." While the dial is what draws attention to this piece, the true essence of this model lies in the polished case, which is free of distortion despite its complex shape.
This is a cosmetic change to the existing model, but the buckle has been revised to include fine adjustment. Given the weight of the watch's head, the new buckle makes it easier to secure tightly to the wrist, which is a boon. Automatic movement (Cal. 28-520 C FUS). 34 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 40.5mm from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, thickness 12.53mm). Water resistant to 12 bar. Price: 8,668,000 yen (tax included).
Speaking of dials, the 5204G, a "split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar," is also interesting. The dial features an olive green soleil that darkens toward the periphery. While details are unknown, the base is plated, and it's likely that a green lacquer is applied on top, with a black lacquer applied around the periphery. The fact that the boundary between these two colors is invisible is a major feature of Patek Philippe's gradient dials.
This "single push button, split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar" designed for left-handed use is a perfect collector's piece. The reason they chose the classic caliber 27-525 as the base movement, rather than the caliber 29-535, is probably because they didn't want the subdial to be positioned higher at 12 o'clock when the movement was rotated 180 degrees.
However, simply rotating the movement 180 degrees would significantly change the positional error. Patek Philippe must have made special adjustments for left-handed people, meaning that the best accuracy would be achieved when worn on the right arm. Adjusting a low-frequency movement to achieve accuracy rather than a high-frequency one is perhaps a sign of Patek Philippe's pride.
This jewelry model is purposely set with 79 pieces of the semi-precious stone spessartite for its unique color. The spessartite used for the indexes is ogive-shaped with a bulging center. It is fixed in place at only two points, top and bottom. This is a very desirable model, including its size. Automatic winding (Cal. 324 SC). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. 18KRG (diameter 35.2mm from 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, thickness 0.62mm). Water resistant to 6 bar. 11,132,000 yen (tax included).
Of particular interest are two women's models featuring jewellery. Prior to the launch of these models, Patek Philippe acquired the Geneva-based jewellery design and setting company, Salanitro. At the time of the acquisition, CEO Thierry Stern said: "Salanitro's business is ideally suited to expand our production capacities and continue our growth in the jewellery watch sector, which offers great development potential."
With the acquisition of Saranitro, Patek Philippe will likely release many more jewelry watches in the future, and these two models are the first of their kind.
The Aquanaut Luce "Rainbow" Chronograph features diamonds and multicolored sapphires on the bezel and indexes. The company's unique distortion-free setting further accentuates the baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires.
The Nautilus also added the Ladies' Nautilus High Jewelry, which is decorated with 79 spessartites. This model also has baguette-cut spessartites set into the bezel and indexes. The quality of the stones and the settings are impeccable.
This model is billed as "for left-handed people." It features the Cal. CHR 27-525 PS Q, a split-seconds chronograph movement that was previously used, rotated 180 degrees. The combination of this classic movement and its 38.3mm case is appealing. Manually wound (Cal. CHR 27-525 PS Q). 31 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve of approximately 48 hours. Pt (diameter 38.3mm, thickness 12.93mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Market price.
These eight new Patek Philippe watches are designed to put the exterior first. As evidenced by their seamlessly gradated dials and well-made extension clasps, the quality of each is exceptional. Of course, the prices are exorbitant, but seeing them in person makes them seem worthwhile—a testament to Patek Philippe's strength. However, as with any of the company's products, only a select few will be able to afford them.
This model is clearly aimed at connoisseurs. In addition to the stainless steel case, it incorporates the carbon-motif dial used in the model exhibited at Only Watch. Including this model, none of the eight new models feature an alligator strap. Perhaps this is an attempt to be environmentally conscious. Automatic (Cal. CH 28-520 HU). 38 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41mm, thickness 12.75mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 8,591,000 yen (tax included).
The case has sharp edges reminiscent of models from the 1940s, and the surface is minimally distorted. I never expected to see a stainless steel case comparable to older models in the 21st century. The blasted finish on the back is also of high quality, and in terms of the exterior alone, this is the best of 2022.
A new addition to the masterpiece Ref. 5204 in a different color. Patek Philippe uses a variety of techniques to create green dials, but this one is likely painted with lacquer. The olive green color, which deepens toward the periphery, is of extremely high quality, and the printing is even. Manually wound (Cal. CHR29-535 PS Q). 34 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. 18KWG (diameter 40mm, thickness 14.03mm). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 42,438,000 yen (tax included).
This split-seconds chronograph movement features many adjustment points. Its three-dimensional design is in keeping with the 27 series. The two subdials are lowered to maximize the calendar display at 12 o'clock. It achieves a high level of both practicality and aesthetic appeal.
Contact info: Patek Philippe Japan Information Center tel. 03-3255-8109
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