Praise for Cartier's complicated watch! Watch journalist Yasuhito Shibuya selects the top 5 watches released in 2022

This project asks prominent journalists from Japan and around the world to choose their top five watches released in 2022. This time, we will introduce the five masterpieces selected by watch journalist Yasuhito Shibuya.

1st place: Cartier "Mass Mysteryuse"

　2022 is set to be a "good year" for unprecedented complication models. This was the first thing that struck me when I arrived at the Geneva watch fair in the spring for the first time in three years.

　Among them, the one that surprised me the most when I saw it in person was this model, which can be described as the "ultimate Cartier complication." It is a masterpiece among masterpieces that encapsulates the evolution of watchmaking technology along with 120 years of tradition since the Mystery Clock was born in 1912. I would like to express my admiration for everything from planning to manufacturing.

2nd Place: Grand Seiko "Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon"

　The planning and commercialization of complicated watches has been a long-cherished dream of not only the engineers at Japanese watch manufacturers since the 1990s, but also of the author, who has been covering the subject since then. Although they were eventually commercialized, they were left dissatisfied in terms of originality.

　However, the Kodo, which was announced at WWG2022 and won the GPHG Chronometry Award, has created a unique world with its coaxial arrangement of the tourbillon and constant-force mechanism and its commitment to a 16-beat sound, marking the beginning of a new chapter in the history of Japanese luxury watches.

3rd place: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum

　This year marks the 20th anniversary of Louis Vuitton watchmaking. The appeal of the complicated watches developed and manufactured by Michel Navas's Fabric du Temps is not only their mechanisms, but also the free spirit of "not being bound by tradition" that only an up-and-coming watchmaking brand can have.

　This model features the unique "Spin Time" jumping hour mechanism, plus an LED light-up mechanism for the hour cube. The black and yellow color scheme makes this a hidden masterpiece that truly shows its true potential.

4th place: Van Cleef & Arpels "Lady Arpels Heure Floral Sleigier"

　Complicated watches are works of art worn on the wrist. And what is required of watchmaking as art is, above all, surprise, emotion, and beauty. And in 2022, it was undoubtedly Van Cleef & Arpels that delivered these three qualities to watch enthusiasts.

　This model, which turns botanist Carl Linnaeus's "flower clock" concept into a wristwatch with a flower module that opens and closes, is one such example. The "Balerine Enchanté" and three beautiful automaton clocks, which were released at the same time, are masterpieces that will remain in the history of watches.

5th place: Bvlgari "Octo Finissimo Ultra"

　Ultra-thin mechanical watches are the pinnacle of sophistication among complicated timepieces, and in 2014, Bvlgari took this field to a new level with the launch of the Octo Finissimo collection, which began with a tourbillon model.

　Among them, this model, which pursues pure thinness, is the pinnacle of its excellence. There are watches that are even thinner than this. However, the appeal of this model, which is a watch in its own right, and has a bold and innovative "face" with a QR code engraved on the ratchet wheel of the barrel, never fades.

General comment

　The COVID-5 pandemic has ultimately been a major stimulus for watch brands, and since 2020, watch brands have been releasing a succession of affordable and attractive models that break through previous barriers in both technology and price, making this a truly exciting time for watch enthusiasts. However, choosing the top five for the year remains an impossible task.

　So, I decided to make a bold decision and choose all complicated watches for this year's top five. This is because, at Watches and Wonders (WWG) 2022 in Geneva at the end of March, I was most impressed by the abundance of complicated watches – the dream watches of any watch enthusiast – on display.

　That Patek Philippe model, that Chopard model, that Richard Mille model, that Jaeger-LeCoultre model, that Piaget concept model, and that Akrivia model... they are all comparable dream watches. However, I chose these five because I wanted to particularly evaluate the history and worldview of each brand, including their design.

　In fact, there are many new watches other than complicated watches this year, and they are all definitely not to be missed. Among them, there was a particularly good selection of diver's watches. Since it was disappointing, I would like to introduce all the new products in this genre that I recommend.

　If you're looking for the best balance of functionality and price, try the Montblanc 1858 Ice Sea Automatic Date and Tudor Pelagos 39. If you enjoy heavy-duty design and over-spec, try the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver. If you're looking to match a casual street style, try the Breitling Superocean, Tudor Black Bay Pro or Pelagos 39, or Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver.

　All of these are new divers' watches for 2022. No matter which one you choose, you won't regret it. This situation is both exciting and troubling, but I think it's truly wonderful.

Selector Profile

Shibuya Yasuhito

As an editor of a product information magazine, he began covering Geneva and Basel in 1995. He has been busy as both an editor and writer, and before he knew it, 2019 was his 25th year. He is currently planning, covering, editing, and writing about not only smartwatches, but also all kinds of things and events other than watches.