A watch professional has selected the top five new models released in 2022. Mitsuru Shibata, a writer active in a wide range of men's publications covering watches, fashion, and automobiles, has chosen unique timepieces that teach the joy of time, including the world's thinnest watch from Richard Mille and the Mickey Mouse watch from Bulgari.
1st place: Richard Mille "RM UP-01 Ferrari"
It is the world's thinnest mechanical watch at 1.75mm, and the movement is an astonishing 1.18mm. Developed in collaboration with Audemars Piguet Locle, it also boasts practical durability and water resistance, typical of the brand.
An ultra-thin watch bearing the Ferrari name. It also boasts shock resistance that makes it practical. The balance is free-sprung. Manual winding (Cal. RMUP-01). 23 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 45 hours. Ti case (39.0mm x 51.0mm, 1.75mm thick). Water resistant to 10m. Limited to 150 pieces worldwide. 247.5 million yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Richard Mille Japan Tel. 03-5511-1555
2nd Place: Audemars Piguet "CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel"
Three discs rotate on the dial like planetary gears to display the hours and minutes. Originating from the Vagabond Hour, which was born in the 17th century, this watch revives the star wheel that the brand used until the early 2000s. Its aesthetic, reminiscent of a starry sky, is also outstanding.
Automatic winding (Cal. 4310). 32 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. 18KWG x black ceramic case (diameter 41mm, thickness 10.7mm). Water resistant to 3 ATM. Price upon request. (Inquiries) Audemars Piguet Japan Tel. 03-6830-0000
3rd Place: Bvlgari "Gerald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde Playing Football Mickey Mouse Disney"
This is the second edition of the Mickey Mouse watch, which was revived last year. While it looks like a toy watch, it houses a wide-angle double retrograde complication that displays jumping hours, the date, and minutes. The micro-relief on the MOP dial creates a three-dimensional effect.
Automatic (Cal. BVL300). 33 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve approximately 42 hours. Stainless steel (diameter 41mm). Water resistant to 100m. Limited to 200 pieces worldwide. On sale now. 2,893,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Bvlgari Japan Tel. 03-6362-0100
4th place: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic
It is equipped with the in-house Cal. PF770, which has been resized to fit the smaller case. In addition to the iconic knurling, the dial features a barleycorn pattern and baguette-cut diamond hour markers.
Automatic winding (Cal. PF770). 29 jewels. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 60 hours. 18KRG case (diameter 36mm, thickness 8.6mm). 100m water resistant. 7,337,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Parmigiani Fleurier pfd.japan@parmigiani.com
5. Seiko "King Seiko SDKS005"
Following its limited reissue two years ago, it has now been made into a regular line. It offers a modern interpretation of 1960s modernity, with features such as a box-shaped crystal and multi-row bracelet. The moderate case size and non-calendar minimalism are also comfortable.
Automatic winding (Cal. 6R31). 24 jewels. 21,600 vibrations per hour. Power reserve approximately 70 hours. Stainless steel case (diameter 37 mm, thickness 12.1 mm). 10 bar water resistance. 198,000 yen (tax included). (Inquiries) Seiko Watch Customer Service Tel. 0120-061-012
