I would recommend this to all watch lovers. My thoughts after wearing the Ulysse Nardin Freak X, a watch that breaks away from the typical geeky watch genre.

2022.12.17

In this series, editorial staff from Chronos Japan share their impressions and discuss popular models. This time, they offer their own personal review of the Ulysse Nardin Freak X. Priced at around 200 million yen, this model is an entry-level model in the Freak series, but it is also the most user-friendly model in the collection. It has been roughly 20 years since the Freak first appeared. With the introduction of this model, the Freak, originally a "geek watch," has evolved into something that is fun to look at, fun to touch, and fun to wear.

Photographs by Mika Hashimoto
Text by Yoshiko Agata
Article published on December 17, 2022

Freak X

The Freak X is the entry-level model in the Freak series, featuring the minute hand based on the complex 19th-century "carrousel" mechanism. The design has been simplified, with only the balance and escapement mounted on the minute hand. Equipped with an automatic winding mechanism and crown, it combines an original design with ease of use.


How easy is Freak's "entry model" to use?

HosodaAs you all know, Ulysse Nardin's Freak X is a carousel watch and a model that uses a silicon escapement.

HirotaThat's right. The Freak is not a tourbillon, but a pioneer of watches with a carousel design where the hands are attached to the escapement and balance. The basic idea was by Dr. (Ludwig) Oechslin, and the watch was completed by designer Carole Cazapi. Even today, it remains a technical icon of Ulysse Nardin. The collection incorporates all new technologies.

(I.e.The silicon escapement was also developed by Freak.

HosodaThat's right. It's clearly made to show off the silicon escapement (laughs).

Freak X

Ulysse Nardin "Freak X"
Automatic (Cal. UN-230). 21 jewels. 21,600 vph. Power reserve approximately 72 hours. Ti (diameter 43mm, thickness 13.2mm). Water resistant to 50m. Price: 2,992,000 yen (tax included).

(I.e.The original model was quite unorthodox, with the entire back of the movement being the barrel, and there being no crown, with the hands being set using the bezel.

HosodaThe original model was released in 2001. The Freak X I'm wearing today is a fairly new model that was released in 19. Until now, the hour and minute hands were adjusted using the bezel, but the addition of a crown is new. Did the original model also have a gear train mounted on the minute hand?

(I.e.To be more specific, the gear train bridge itself served as the minute hand.

HosodaThis time, the gear train has been moved to the dial side.

(I.e.Yes. Moreover, the Freak X has a crown, so it has a normal watch base.

HosodaIn 2018, we released the Freak Out, the first automatic watch in the Freak series, which featured a truly unique automatic winding mechanism.

(I.e.On the other hand, this one is a regular automatic watch with a magic lever mechanism. Cal. UN-230 is a modified version of the 118 series.

HirotaI think so.

HosodaPrice is also a big difference. Previous Freak models often cost close to 1000 million yen, but the Freak X is much more affordable. That said, it's still in the 200 million yen range (laughs). So, since we were able to borrow it for a long period of time and give our impressions, we chose it this time.

DoiIt's become a realistic model for many people.

(I.e.It's closer to normal in a good way, but I think Freak X's charm is that it still retains a certain flair.


The "otaku-only" Freak has evolved to be easier to use

HirotaI really thought it was a great watch. To put it bluntly, Freak was basically a "nerd specialty." It was a watch that only nerds would enjoy, but this one is a normal size, the automatic winding works properly, and even though it has a balance wheel on the minute hand, it's easy to read.

(I.e.This particular one was a little advanced, but the accuracy wasn't bad either.

Silicone Temp

The balance wheel and hairspring on the minute hand are made of silicon. Another distinctive feature is the colorless artificial ruby ​​placed in the hole.

DoiWe borrowed this particular watch after it had been overhauled, reassembled and before the rate was adjusted.

(I.e.So there will be further adjustments. However, during my impressions, I felt that I could use it normally without any problems.

DoiThere is no second hand and the minute hand is so thick, so the misalignment is hard to notice.

HirotaThis magic lever automatic winding mechanism, adapted from Caliber UN-118, was well wound, so I had no worries while using it. It was a fun watch, but in terms of normal use, I think it was a practical version, although I wouldn't say it was the perfect model for a watch freak.

(I.e.It also has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

HosodaAlso, many of the previous Freak models were sold out after a short time, but this one has a regular model and there will also be limited edition models released in the future, so it seems that Nardin is serious about making it a part of the collection.

DoiRecently, they've been adding new variations every year. The one released this spring had an aventurine dial and a gold case.

HosodaThere really is a wide variety of options.

HirotaI had the opportunity to play with the first Freak a few times, and if I were to compare it to a Gundam, it felt like a Zeong.

(I.e.I know, I know (laughs). That's right. It's amazing, but it's not practical and you can't fight with it.

HosodaIt's an analogy that only those who understand it will understand (wry smile)

(I.e.The Zeong was designed to be very large, and due to a lack of budget they couldn't even make the legs.

HirotaOn the other hand, Freak X looks more like a Gelgoog.

(I.e.The Gelgoog is cool, isn't it? It's a bit flashy, but it's actually quite usable. It's a great analogy, but Hosoda and Doi aren't of the same generation as me (lol).

HosodaI don't really know (bitter smile)

(I.e.But our readers will understand (laughs). They'll be like, "Wow, they even made a Gelgoog!" So I hope that in the future we'll see a red model too.

Hirota(Lol)