Jaeger-LeCoultre "Reverso Tribute Duo Calendar" The Reverso, a classic that transcends genres

2023.01.05

There are many classics from long-established watch manufacturers. However, there is no watch that has changed and remained as classic as the Reverso, which was introduced in 1931. It was born as a sports watch, favored by stylish people, matured as a complicated watch, and now has the makings of a dress watch. The Reverso Tribute Duo Calendar beautifully unites these contradictions.

Reverso Tribute Duo Calendar

Photographs by Eiichi Okuyama
Interview and text by Masayuki Hirota (Chronos-Japan)
Edited by Yukiya Suzuki (Chronos-Japan)
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


A unique design that combines the look of a dress watch with the strength of a sports watch

Reverso Tribute Duo Calendar

 A Jaeger-LeCoultre classic is the rectangular-case Reverso, released in 1931. As its name, derived from the Latin word for "to turn over," suggests, this model had a unique feature: a reversible case. Originally conceived to prevent the crystal glass from shattering on impact during polo matches, the snobby nature of being able to hide the watch seems to have been popular with gentlemen and ladies alike. This is why you often see Reversos with ornate patterns engraved on the back of the case at auctions.

 Günter Blümlein, who helped turn Jaeger-LeCoultre around, was also one of those who found the case back fascinating. He envisioned using the case back to transform the Reverso into a uniquely complicated watch. His initial attempts were modest, however. The 1991 Reverso Soixante-Més and the 1993 Reverso Tourbillon were undoubted masterpieces, but they were merely experiments with a transparent case back. However, the 1996 Chronograph Retrograde, which featured a chronograph mechanism on the back, fully realized the new concept. The most successful of these attempts was undoubtedly the Reverso Duo, released in 1994. Displaying the time in two different countries on both sides of the case, this watch was not only as thin as a dress watch, but also extremely practical.

 The Reverso continued to evolve. Since 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre has focused on the exterior design, further improving the quality of the flagship Reverso collection. This resulted in the 2011 Reverso Tribute, which imitates the 1931 original. With its thin, high-quality case and precisely printed dial, it was a fitting finish for celebrating the Reverso's 80th anniversary.

 As a core collection, the Reverso has always reflected Jaeger-LeCoultre's direction. The Reverso Tribute Duo Calendar, unveiled in 2022, is no exception. This model combines the most desirable and practical Duo with the even thinner Tribute case, while featuring an even more refined in-house case. The company began using CNC to process cases in the 1980s, and over the past decade has further improved its machining precision. As the photo shows, this model has minimal mirror distortion and the alignment of each part of the case is more precise. Also pleasing, the feel of storing the case, familiar to Reverso fans, has become even smoother.

Reverso Tribute Duo Calendar

Jaeger-LeCoultre "Reverso Tribute Duo Calendar"
A masterful blend of practicality and aesthetics. It features a high-quality finish, a thin case, and a practical second time zone display. Setting the hands and flipping the case over are extremely smooth. The leather and leather/canvas straps, made by Casa Fagliano, are interchangeable. Manual winding (Cal. 853/A). 19 jewels. 21,600 vph. Approximately 42-hour power reserve. 18KPG (49.4mm x 29.9mm, 10.9mm thick). Water resistant to 3 bar. Price: 3,872,000 yen (tax included).

 The movement is the Caliber 853, announced in 2016. This is a triple calendar version of the Caliber 854 used by the Duo in 1994, with the addition of a slider for adjusting the second time zone. After years of trial and error with the second time zone adjustment system, Duo finally seems to have settled on something. The 24-hour display has also been replaced with a simple day and night display.

 The most important thing about the Caliber 853 is that, like the Caliber 822 on which it is based, it has evolved into the "/A" designation. This means that the familiar regulator has been replaced with a free-sprung balance. While no one would actually do this, the Caliber 853 without a regulator makes you want to take it to a polo game, just like the original owner. This is a modern duo that looks like a dress watch, but, to put it a little dramatically, it is tough enough to be used as a sports watch as well.

 Originally a sports watch, the Reverso eventually became popular with fashionable people, evolved into a complicated watch, and finally took on the appearance of a dress watch. Normally, such a change in character would inevitably lead to a product failing. However, the Reverso has remained a classic with astonishing consistency. The reason for this is clear when you look at this watch. No matter what you put on it or how you dress it, the Reverso is nothing but a Reverso.

Reverso Tribute Duo Calendar

Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to collaborate with artists through its "Made of Makers" initiative, including the addition of new typography to the case back engraving. Lettering artist Alex Troschut created the Art Deco-inspired "1931 Alphabet" for the Reverso.



Contact info: Jaeger-LeCoultre Tel. 0120-79-1833


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