Actually wearing the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton. "The more I look at it, the more I want to own it."

2022.12.23

The new Tonda PF collection, announced by Parmigiani Fleurier in the fall of 2021, is one of the leading contenders for the post-luxury sports watch. In this review, we explored its appeal through the elegant and stylish latest creation, the Tonda PF Skeleton. It is an exquisite luxury watch that combines advanced technology, unique aesthetics, exquisite finish, and comfortable wearability.

Takeshi Hoshi: Photography
Photographs by Takeshi Hoshi (estrellas)
Shigeru Sugawara: Interview and writing
[Article published in the July 2023 issue of Kronos Japan]


"Tonda PF Skeleton" Impression Items

Tonda PF Skeleton

Tonda PF Skeleton
A new model released in 2022. The newly developed skeleton movement perfectly expresses the elegant, minimalist design of the Tonda PF. Automatic (Cal. PF777). 29 jewels. 28,800 vph. Power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Stainless steel and platinum (diameter 40mm, thickness 8.5mm). Water resistant to 100m. Price: 8,745,000 yen.

1. Case
Is the crown easy to pull and turn? : △
Is there any play on the left and right when you pull out the crown?

2. Bracelet & Strap
Is the buckle easy to remove?
Is the bracelet loose, the strap bend, and the hole pitch appropriate?

3. Dial, hands, and crystal
When exposed to a strong light source, do the indexes and hands sink into the dial? Yes
Isn't the clearance between the dial and the hands too large?

4. Movement
Is the needle setting smooth?: Yes
Is the sound of the rotors rotating annoying?

Accuracy test using a rate measuring device (static accuracy)

T0 o'clock T0 o'clock T0 o'clock T24 o'clock T24 o'clock T24 o'clock T48 o'clock T48 o'clock T48 o'clock
Rate Swing angle Single swing angle Rate Swing angle Single swing angle Rate Swing angle Single swing angle
on the dial +6 second/day 301° 0.1ms +5 second/day 286° 0.1ms +3 second/day 281° 0.1ms
12 o'clock above +6 second/day 269° 0.2ms +5 second/day 247° 0.2ms +4 second/day 249° 0.2ms
3 o'clock above +8 second/day 271° 0.1ms +9 second/day 255° 0.1ms +11 second/day 250° 0.1ms
6 o'clock above +4 second/day 269° 0.0ms +3 second/day 251° 0.0ms +6 second/day 248° 0.0ms
9 o'clock above +2 second/day 270° 0.1ms -2 seconds/day 254° 0.1ms -4 seconds/day 244° 0.1ms
Below the dial +6 second/day 298° 0.0ms +3 seconds/day 289° 0.1ms +6 second/day 277° 0.1ms
average +5.3 second/day 279.6° 0.08ms +3.8 second/day 263.6° 0.1ms +4.3 second/day 258.1° 0.1ms


Looks great and feels great to wear, embodying the ideal skeleton design.

 I remember being deeply impressed by the Tonda PF, which ushered in a new era for Parmigiani Fleurier, at its launch event in 2021. For a first release, the variety was impressive, ranging from simple models with a date display to annual calendars with double moon phases, chronographs, and split-seconds models. This new collection debuted under CEO Guido Terreni, formerly of Bulgari and responsible for the huge success of Octo Finissimo, and it must have been a smash hit. What was particularly impressive was how, while retaining the iconic Tonda design, it was slim and stylish, and while incorporating complex functions, it managed to maintain a refined, rather than mechanical, appearance. I was truly impressed by Terreni's skill. The highly anticipated second wave of watches was released just six months later in spring 2022. It featured a unique GMT, a minimalist flying tourbillon, and the Tonda PF Skeleton, which I had the privilege of wearing this time.

Tonda PF Skeleton

 After receiving the watch, the first thing I did was fully wind the mainspring and set the hands. As usual, I set the time using a radio-controlled desk clock, but since this model only has two hands and no second hand, I decided to skip the daily accuracy check. Incidentally, there were no visible errors during the four-night, five-day loan period. Later, when I checked the static accuracy results using a rate measuring device, I found that the watch tended to run at an average pace. While there was a slight deviation in the rate across all six positions, the oscillation angle was fairly stable, and I believe the dynamic accuracy when the watch was worn on the wrist and the automatic winding was functioning would also have been good.

Tonda PF Skeleton

The 18K rose gold skeleton delta hands, applied indexes, and PF emblem stand out against the graphite-colored movement in the background, enhancing the visibility and the individuality of the face.

 What caught my attention was the crown. The grooved, straight-line crown is screw-down to meet the 100m water resistance standard, but its diameter is small. The case is the same 40mm diameter as the Tonda PF Microrotor, and only slightly thinner at 8.5mm, so I suspect the crown is probably the same. While the small crown blends in well with the elegant aesthetic of the Tonda PF, winding the twin barrels of the caliber PF777 required a firm grip and some force. However, if you wear this watch regularly, the large 22K gold rotor should be able to powerfully wind the mainspring, so manual winding may not be all that important.

Tonda PF Skeleton

Knurling, a technique used to carve fine grooves evenly into the bezel using a manual lathe, is a distinctive feature of the brand and has also been used in the "Trick" collection. This time, the knurling has been realized on a platinum bezel. The iconic teardrop-shaped lugs and integrated bracelet are also given a high-quality feel with a combination of polished and satin finishes.

 I actually wore the Tonda PF Skeleton on the second and fourth days. On the second day, I wore it for four to five hours while doing desk work, and on the fourth day, I wore it for about three hours while walking outdoors to compare how it looked indoors and out. On both occasions, the gold hands stood out against the dark skeleton movement, and visibility was good regardless of the lighting conditions.

 The wearability is truly comfortable. The knurled bezel is made of platinum, but the rest is stainless steel. The integrated bracelet that connects the thin case to the clasp gradually narrows in width and thickness, and because it is a skeleton, it is lighter than I expected!

Tonda PF Skeleton

The new movement, Cal. PF777, can be seen through the case back. The highlight is the 22K rose gold rotor. It is slightly larger than the actual body of the movement and is cleverly skeletonized to match the width of its outer edge, giving it the function and appearance of a peripheral rotor. The stylish aesthetic created by the contrast between gray and gold is the same as on the dial side.

 The editorial department's actual measurement is 124g. Checking it on my kitchen scale, it's a little over 120g. I also weighed my everyday Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, which was about 150g. A difference of 30g is quite significant in terms of strain on the wrist. The Tonda PF Skeleton has a moderate weight, but with its thin case and flat back, it sits comfortably on the wrist, and I didn't feel its weight while typing on my computer keyboard or walking outside.

Tonda PF Skeleton

The graphite-colored openwork, with its graceful curves, gives the 3.9mm thin movement a unique sense of depth. Also noteworthy are the delicate yet precise vertical satin-brushed finish and meticulous chamfering on each component, as well as the black ruby ​​bearing stones, which are used to match the tone of the movement.

 The Tonda PF Skeleton's most distinctive feature is its movement, which is sandblasted and polished, then given a gray finish with a NAC coating. As someone who is more interested in modern architecture designed for a new era of skeletons than in classic skeletons crafted using engraving techniques, this view of the caliber PF777 is truly fascinating. In a word, it's "cool." Since the skeleton itself isn't functional, I think the most important thing is the appearance, but the highly refined aesthetic is a delight to the eye. Another thing I like about openwork is the well-considered "openness." Excessive openwork can reveal your skin underneath the watch, which can be a real turnoff, so finding the right balance is crucial. Fortunately, this model, designed with the careful consideration of an elegant luxury watch, eliminates this concern.

 Before returning it, I once again looked at the details with a magnifying glass. The more I looked at it, the more I wanted to own it, but when I thought about the price, I was quickly brought back to reality. I was sad to see it for the last time. But I was grateful for the fun time I had!


Contact info: Parmigiani Fleurier pfd.japan@parmigiani.com


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